BJ29 Pilots, what is your setup to avoid the bouncing?

[Scaler15]

Ok thanks macace can you point me in the right direction with the 5.5 mm bullets. Is there anything else needed for good running?
I am thinking of doing ec5 on the batteries.
Is there anything wrong with a 6 or 6.5 mm for the motor cause if im changing it wouldnt your just get the biggest you can find, sorry im a noob to boats!!

[BHChieftain]

Ok thanks macace can you point me in the right direction with the 5.5 mm bullets. Is there anything else needed for good running?
I am thinking of doing ec5 on the batteries.
Is there anything wrong with a 6 or 6.5 mm for the motor cause if im changing it wouldnt your just get the biggest you can find, sorry im a noob to boats!!

You should use the bullets on everything including the lipos. That way you can avoid using a harness. You take the positive lead of one lipo (female bullet), and plug it directly into the negative lead of the other lipo (male bullet). Then you plug the remaining 2 lipo leads directly in the ESC leads.

But you have to be careful not to dead short the packs (I've done that more than once)...

Chief

[Scaler15]

Ok thanks chieftain for the information i need as much as possible haha, this deadshorting doesnt sound good! I need to run the lipos in parallel. Do you know how i could achieve this?

[macace123]

i am running EC5s on the ESC and Batteries and 5.5 on the motor to ESC i just ran 44.5 on a octtura m445.

[jsturess]

Can we be kind to stick to the topic

[hydro_pyro]

This is the ticket:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...t-modification

[don83000]

no additional weight just set cog at 33% and I'm golden.

When you say 33% are we talking 33% of the sponson length or the complete hull and strut. So I assume you advize running 2x4s 5000mah in parallel.

Thanks Don

[hydro_pyro]

Here's mine... strut hole egged out, raised, angled, and aligned. No bouncing.



Simply moving the batteries far forward as others have suggested does not correct the problem. It just makes the front of the boat "plow" while the back end "digs in." Raising and angling the strut downward gives the boat the stern lift it needs, and the packs don't need to be moved as far forward, because the hull doesn't tend to trap air when it runs high and dry.

Even when it gets tossed around in the chop, the bow doesn't rise, it just settles back down again.

[AlanD]

Hydro, I put a sharpened balanced m440 on mine and set the strut the same as in your pics. I moved the batteries so the cog is between the motor face plate and the bulkhead supporting the top of the stuffing tube.

Result, the prop cavitated a lot but reached peak rpm easily. Bouncing like a lunatic and could not sustain WOT without twitching and wanting to flip. I'm not sure if it was the prop change, the strut angle or the COG change which caused the negative performance. Tried dropping the strut again but didn't help. I wonder if the tongued stock prop is better suited to my leopard 4082/1600 than the m440 since the 440 has slightly.less.pitch.

Any thoughts?

[don83000]

Thanks Hydro I did as you said and hell that runs sweet chuffed as you can get and first timeout of the box and on the water and there was quite a chop on the water and it loved it. Best boat I've ever had. A big thanks to all that have given me their time and advice.

[AlanD]

Just got back from the lake after putting my stock prop back on. Much better handling and performance than the m440. Still some bouncing when running in the high 50's but I can live with it. The strut angle is exactly as pyro has it. I really thought the m440 would give me a better top end to push through the little bit of bouncing at top end. That certainly was not the case here.