Broke the u-joint and damaged hull--repair advice?

[SwampNut]

I'm open to any advice and suggestions on this...

This weekend while running full speed, the u-joint broke and bent the shaft so much that it broke off the part of the hull that the tube runs through. I'm familiar with fiberglass repair, so my plan is to clean up the break, epoxy it, and apply a thin sheet of fiberglass or carbon fiber over the area for strength.

The shaft was lost, and it's probably a good time to replace all the running gear anyway. I've done a bit of searching and find a lot of references to a company that is out of business, and also to Fuller's Catamaran parts. Are there any others I should consider? I'm not trying to build a race boat, this is for me and the kid to play around with. Reliability is the top goal, with on-water stability the second. Speed is the least important (this thing already flies with the 5S 4000mAh batteries we usually run). Cost is not a big deal, would just like it to work reliably when we want to play.

Some links to specific parts would be greatly appreciated. This is our first boat and I have no familiarity with boat RC stuff. We previously have only had helis, planes, and cars.

[SwampNut]

[kmachala]

Just finished replacing the stock outdrive on my Blackjack with the rudder/prop strut/flexdrive etc from the nitro version of the Blackjack. The conversion was relatively simple and the cost is much less than the Fuller's stuff. Proboat parts are usually stocked in any hobby shop that has boats and there's always E bay. My conversion was right around $90 total ready to run. I'll pull the part numbers together for you if you're interested.
Just remember to eliminate the turn fins.

[G-UNIT]

Also look into a speedmaster set up, and go with a .150 flex cable

[SwampNut]

Well, I ended up ordering the OEM aluminum gear for the BJ26SS. Looks durable and well made, price is good. I ordered a stock cable/shaft, but I don't actually know the thickness of the stocker (like I said, my first boat). If I get a thicker cable, do I need a different teflon tube, stuffing box/tube, etc?

[roadrashracing]

Lots of people go with this
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80085

I have it and love it

[kmachala]

Well, I ended up ordering the OEM aluminum gear for the BJ26SS. Looks durable and well made, price is good. I ordered a stock cable/shaft, but I don't actually know the thickness of the stocker (like I said, my first boat). If I get a thicker cable, do I need a different teflon tube, stuffing box/tube, etc?

I know you'll be happy with the nitro hardware. As far as the stuffing tube...both Blackjack models use a teflon lined 7/32" tube with a .150 flexdrive which will handle your 5s power no problem. Match that up with an x642 prop to up the fun factor.

[SwampNut]

I got the hull patched, and installed the running gear, only to find that the tube from the boat is too long for the prop strut. Not sure what the right solution is here. Is the cable end on the nitro different (and I got the wrong one)? Should I cut the tube (but then I also have to cut and re-square the cable)?

[SwampNut]

Ok, I get it, looks like I need the nitro shaft without the u-joint. Duh. Didn't think of that. Well, hopefully I can find one that won't take a week to get.

Another question...is there a plastic/fiber washer between the flex shaft coupler and the hull? I can't see that clearly on the drawings. I can see there is one on each end of the prop strut.

[kmachala]

Ok, I get it, looks like I need the nitro shaft without the u-joint. Duh. Didn't think of that. Well, hopefully I can find one that won't take a week to get.

Another question...is there a plastic/fiber washer between the flex shaft coupler and the hull? I can't see that clearly on the drawings. I can see there is one on each end of the prop strut.

The white washers are needed on the prop shaft at both ends of the prop strut.
You should have approx 1/16" play between the washers and prop strut as the flex cable has a tendency to shorten at high rpm. Cut back your stuffing tube if necessary to obtain this gap - it's that important. There is no washer required between the flex cable coupler and stuffing tube. I have the feeling you're concerned about water ingestion in which case...cut a 1/4" long piece of cooling line and slide it over the forward end of the flex cable (inside the boat) onto the stuffing tube - works like a charm if it and the cable are well greased. Hang in there - you're not going to believe the difference in handling and reliability with the new hardware.

[SwampNut]

I don't have a specific concern, just wanting to make sure I put it back together correctly. The original flex shaft was lost, so any parts back there would have been lost too. I do have a piece of line on the inside, but even without that, I wasn't seeing a huge amount of water in the hull, just a bit.

The photos of the 26SS seem to not have the turn fins on them. Are these no longer needed/desirable with the new running gear?

[kmachala]

I don't have a specific concern, just wanting to make sure I put it back together correctly. The original flex shaft was lost, so any parts back there would have been lost too. I do have a piece of line on the inside, but even without that, I wasn't seeing a huge amount of water in the hull, just a bit.

The photos of the 26SS seem to not have the turn fins on them. Are these no longer needed/desirable with the new running gear?

Popular opinion is cats don't need turn fins. I took mine off and like it w/o, but try it both ways to see what suits you.
One other suggestion - watch your temps with the new hardware. This water pickup isn't nearly as efficient as your old one behind the prop. My temps are borderline on 4s.