Would love some insite

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Trea916
    Member
    • May 2010
    • 70

    #1

    Would love some insite

    OK I KNOW ITS BEEN TALKED ABOUT ON HERE ALOT IN THE PAST BUT I AM NEW SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME

    I HAVE A NEW BRUSHLESS BLACKJACK 26
    IS THERE A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR BETTER HARDWARE

    WOULD LOVE TO GET RID OF THE U JOINT THING AND PLATIC PARTS

    READ ALOT ON SOME OF THESE SITES BUT CANT FIND A DIRECT REPLACEMENT
    READ THAT
    Twisted Liquid SKATER INLINE RUDDER DID BUT I THINK THERE OUT OF BUISNESS NOW

    ALL THE STUFF I FOUND ON HERE IS OLD THANKS GUYS
  • scoota
    FE DOWN UNDER
    • Dec 2008
    • 409

    #2
    Originally posted by Trea916
    OK I KNOW ITS BEEN TALKED ABOUT ON HERE ALOT IN THE PAST BUT I AM NEW SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME

    I HAVE A NEW BRUSHLESS BLACKJACK 26
    IS THERE A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR BETTER HARDWARE

    WOULD LOVE TO GET RID OF THE U JOINT THING AND PLATIC PARTS

    READ ALOT ON SOME OF THESE SITES BUT CANT FIND A DIRECT REPLACEMENT
    READ THAT
    Twisted Liquid SKATER INLINE RUDDER DID BUT I THINK THERE OUT OF BUISNESS NOW

    ALL THE STUFF I FOUND ON HERE IS OLD THANKS GUYS
    If you read the end of , fixing the BJ26 handling issues thread , your question on the on a upgrade for the hardwear will be answered.....
    UL1- 1515 castle/neu / 240 swordfish
    SV27- with UL1 running gear
    33 Delta Force - 1521-1.5D/Neu/ 240 swordfish/4S2P

    Comment

    • dtacmed
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2008
      • 199

      #3
      After reading several hours here is what I decided. Remove battery trays to lower and then your able to move them back and forth. (really makes a diff). I made 2 trays using thin ply from the hobby shop but paint stirer (sp) would work. Some on here have used thin stryofoam. Then attach a few pieces of velcro for the batteries and you ready to go. Replaced the stock hardware with the Fullers Cat Hardware. Could not believe the improvement. Faster, More stable and very well made. Ordered and had in 3 days. Also removed tupperware container and placed the Speedcontrol under the plywood and the receiver on top. Left servo in stock position. You have to make a longer pushrod for the Fullers. A 2/56 rod and a dubro quick connect work great use the stock plastic retainer from the original. I also changed to an Octura 442 prop. Lot of info here just tried to condense all the info I found here. Also Fullers includes the drive shaft and teflon tube. You have to cut to drive line I used a dremel and wheel then silversolder the end to keep it from fraying. Also when inserting the teflon tube you have to stretch it to make it smaller slide it in the brass tube then it will expand and tighten in the tube. If you do the above there are pictures on this forum under the making it handle better posts as stated in your 1st reply.
      Last edited by dtacmed; 06-21-2010, 08:07 AM. Reason: more info

      Comment

      • LiPo Power
        DJI Drone Advanced Pilot
        • May 2009
        • 3186

        #4
        Way to go....
        DJI Drone Advanced Pilot
        Canada

        Comment

        • dtacmed
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2008
          • 199

          #5
          A couple other things and info. I also put heat shrink between the Fuller's strut and the stuffing tube. No water coming in there now. Also added the Dubro push pull switch through the rear of the hull and mounted the Ant on the rear of the boat. Really nice being able to cut off and on without removing hatch tape. Oh yea you need to tape the hatch in a rollover last week the hatch came off. Obviously flooded the hull. I use 3m white electrical tape take a xacto knife and go around the roll and split it in half. Works perfect. When I get a chance I'll post some pics. This boat is really a blast with these improvements. I run mine 2-3 times a day in a small pond even though the pond is small with the way it handles no problem at all.

          Comment

          • CatMan
            Member
            • Jun 2010
            • 96

            #6
            thanks for the info, You are the first person that I know of (and I dont know anything) to use heat shrink instead of fuel line tubing between the strut and tube, all I know I've read on here but am curious if this matters or not. if so Im sure someone will post it. I am new to this as well and only have a bare hull to stare at since Im still trying to figure out what to get. So all I can do is the inside the hull mods like you have done, plus I will be glassing in the last step on the hull. it sounds like it helps and since I have fiberglass and no parts I might as well ! if I dont start getting parts soon might start taking it to the lake and push it around just to see it on the water! I will probably be the first person to have a brushless motorless boat on the water

            Comment

            • AndyKunz
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Sep 2008
              • 1437

              #7
              I've used heat shrink to seal the driveline for years. It works great!

              You need to use a light coat of oil on it to keep it from sticking, but after that it's good.

              Andy
              Spektrum Development Team

              Comment

              Working...