Water Cooling problems...

[RCvolt]

Ran the boat last night and can’t get any water to flow through the cooling system using the rudder water pickup. No kinks anywhere. First couple of pictures is original set up of plumbing. Rigged up a water pickup at the pond and duplicated the effort at home so I can take pictures to help show what I did. first try - taped a water pick up (barrowed from another boater) behind left transom. Used some heavy duty double sided tape to make sure pickup stays put. The boat ran about 20% slower and seemed to want to roll even on the straight away, no water came out on the discharge side. 2nd try- mounted the pickup right behind the prop. still no visible water comming out. Even placed black tape behind side water outlet to help see if water is coming out. I didn’t see any...

Tried blowing air through the whole cooling system and there is resistance. Tried blowing air through the ESC and motor cooling separately and I get more resistance from the motor’s water jacket. But then I really don’t know what is normal and what is too much. Since I’m not getting any flow I guess there is too much…

I used large bore silicone tube to connect to smaller bore stock ESC and motor cooling water connectors. Could this have anything to do with the problem?

If I use one pickup to supply water to a T connector to cool the speed control and motor separately, will the water just flow through the path of least resistance and leave one component uncooled ?

Other wise, the boat is running really nice…

Now if I can only get this boat to run safely for more than a minitue…

[LiPo Power]

Water pick up from rudder should be fine for both, motor and ESC. Check the buttom of rudder and see if the drilling hole is open or closed. It has to be closed. If open all the pressure wil escape down the rudder.
I personally would not use water split. It will only go where there is no resistance so back to the drawing board. To me you have something inside of your motor cooling jacket creating problem with water flow. It should be visable on the outlet with normal speed when running. Not sure waht alse to recomend.
Robert

[mtk]

I would seperate erevything try to unplug the esc inlet valve and blow if you can then plug it back in then I would undo the esc outlet and blow again if that works and you can blow throgh it do the same to the moter also you could put a nozzel of a wd40 can to the moter outlet hose and blow throught it to push anything out

[LiPo Power]

maybe transom opening for the cooling pipe is blocked...

[6S HYDRO]

I would stick to a prop wash rudder pick up, that pick-up is gonna screw with your handling. Its very easy to duplicate the stock setup, which works very well.

[RCvolt]

maybe transom opening for the cooling pipe is blocked...

This may be the problem and is the reason why I could not get any water to flow regardless of what I tried at the pond. I can see 1.5 to 2 feet of water shooting out of the rudder pickup at speed while using alternate water pickup. The smaller stock transom opening was definitely tight on the large bore silicone tube. At that time I was thinking that was good for water tightness. I found this out only after I gutted the boat. I’m a little busy but will try to sneak in a run first chance I get and let all you good people know how it comes out.

[LiPo Power]

This may be the problem and is the reason why I could not get any water to flow regardless of what I tried at the pond. I can see 1.5 to 2 feet of water shooting out of the rudder pickup at speed while using alternate water pickup. The smaller stock transom opening was definitely tight on the large bore silicone tube. At that time I was thinking that was good for water tightness. I found this out only after I gutted the boat. I’m a little busy but will try to sneak in a run first chance I get and let all you good people know how it comes out.

...way to go...

[Jeff Wohlt]

I really think I am going to begin using through the hull cooling. Cats you can run two, one on each sponson and bring one to the ESC and one to the motor,. HAve two outlets so you know the ESC and motor are each getting water...might be safer that way.

I like to always remove the nipple and then run a bit down the rudder to make sure it is good and big and clean. You can also make the intake hole larger pretty easily as well.

[ncornacchi]

I'm still looking for anyone who can CNC some rudders with dual water pickups for the UL1's. Accutech sells them, but the scale is too large. I also found that Wye'ing the water feed is not a good idea, need individual feeds to motor and ESC. Anyone know someone who wants to take on my dual pickup on rudder needs? I need 5 of them and willing to pay the price....Norm

[Jeff Wohlt]

The problem is the width of the rudder if using a wedge...I do have some older Fuller rudders that were thicker so let me see if they can take another hole and tunnel thru them.

If not then why not use a rudder and a prop wash set up and have two?

[ncornacchi]

Good point Jeff, I do have the prop wash setup on one of them, but when I ran it with the E-Logger, I lost 3-4 MPH. You are right about the depth of the wedge. The UL1 width is 3/4", too narrow for the second vertical bore. The AccuTech SRA-100 width is 1-1/4" which is too wide, but I believe a happy medium of a 1" wide rudder would fit the bill perfectly. I was thinking of boring out a a piece of square stock first with the 2- vertical bores, then boring out the 2 horizontal bores, and then cutting down the square stock to a taper. Problem is, I don't have access to a Bridgeport machine that could cut the aluminum nicely. I think that if this rudder setup could be accomplished, it would go over big in our hobby. Everyone seeks the holy grail of cool motor and ESC temps, right?

[6S HYDRO]

rc volt, you got that too deep in the prop wash. its gonna be right in the vortex. put it up to the tip of the prop, thats why your loosing so much mph

[Jeff Wohlt]

It almost seems that we are trying to cool a TOO HOT of set up to begin with. This is bad. You are either going to cook the motor then the ESC. Motors build heat inside and can't be really cooled by just a can...that helps the mags but your rotor is still getting very hot.

[ncornacchi]

This is true Jeff. We do push them a bit too much with propping, but that's the fun of it all...And wouldn't it be nice to collect raw water for each component individually with almost no drag via the rudder instead of external pickups? Plus, with individual feeds, each component could be monitored for temps as they stand on their own and not having to mess with feeding the motor first then esc or feeding esc first, then the motor, or wyeing it, etc.......I'm just anal like that, when I get some idea stuck in my head, I want to run with it anyways to prove it right or wrong to myself. Shouldn't cost too much to find a guy that could turn these out.........Norm

[nutz1207]

here is what im currnetly running for my water cooling. i used to have the water pick ups on the strut just behind the prop but it seemed to have alot of drag that way. im not sure if this set up is anybetter or not i dont have a gps to tell me the speed of the boat. and the handling doesnt seem any diffrent. i will probly raise the pick ups a little bit more as im getting good water flow through them at this setting.boat 032.jpg