updated pics new paint and gutted hull

[brad65]

I like it, it looks great! I'll post some pictures tonight of what I did. What size flex cable did you use.

[FE Wannabe]

I like it, it looks great! I'll post some pictures tonight of what I did. What size flex cable did you use.

I used a .130 cable with a 3/16" prop shaft stepped down to 1/8" so I could run the smaller sized Octura props. It was fairly easy to install. I can post the step by step install process if you need it. I still think that the factory U-Joint could be robbing you of some power and placing a greater load on your motor. All I know is that when I converted from the U-Joint to the flex cable the boat ran a lot quieter.

I am hoping to run it in a couple days, I'll let you know how it goes.

[brad65]

I used a .130 cable with a 3/16" prop shaft stepped down to 1/8" so I could run the smaller sized Octura props. It was fairly easy to install. I can post the step by step install process if you need it. I still think that the factory U-Joint could be robbing you of some power and placing a greater load on your motor. All I know is that when I converted from the U-Joint to the flex cable the boat ran a lot quieter.

I am hoping to run it in a couple days, I'll let you know how it goes.

That would be great, I want to do this bad to my boat. I will make a coupling for the motor if I have to for the 1/4" shaft. But yes I would love some more help as to want I need to do this.

[SweetZ28]

COOL IT WORKED!!!
For the flex unit here is my post on the second page shows what i ordered to make it work...you don't need all i ordered just flex shaft teflon tube end connector and motor connector plus tubing..
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=1667

[FE Wannabe]

Flex Shaft Install

That would be great, I want to do this bad to my boat. I will make a coupling for the motor if I have to for the 1/4" shaft. But yes I would love some more help as to want I need to do this.

Brad,

My list of parts might vary from some others, you can "skin this cat" more than one way.
I used a .130 cable with a teflon liner, so I used 7/32" brass tubing for the hull from transom to motor.
I also used a stinger bushing in the outdrive so I drilled my outdrive to 1/4" and installed 1/4" brass tubing cut to length and then inserted a stinger bushing in the strut for the 3/16" prop shaft to run in. The stinger bushing holds grease better for increased lubrication.
Here is my parts list:

1 piece 7/32" brass tube
1 piece 1/4" brass tube
1 ea Stinger Sleeve bushing
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdsd-187

1ea .130 cable with teflon and 3/16" stepped down to 1/8" propshaft
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc64pkg

1ea motor/flex shaft coupler (motor shaft size x .130)

CA glue for securing teflon liner inside brass tubing
Epoxy for securing the new brass tubing to the hull.
7/32" drill bit for transom and motor mount end of brass tube to open the hole larger.
1/4" drill bit for outdrive to open the hole for the 1/4" brass tube.

I would follow Diegoboy's directions(below) on removing the stuffing tube on the link that Z28 provided but I would add one thing: if you carefully heat the stock stuffing tube with a soldering iron it will help the epoxy release its hold on the stuffing tube. Sometimes the epoxy will make a cracking sound when it starts to release. Just be careful how much heat you apply, because you more than most, know how thin the ABS hull is and you don't want to melt it. If you don't heat it, you have to twist the tube and the hull fairly hard for the epoxy to release.

Diegoboy's removal/install instructionswith my modifications:
Pull out the Motor
Pull out the drive shaft
Remove the strudder
Apply heat to stock stuffing tube with care.
Using needle nose pliers, Grab the stuffing tube in the boat, and twist to free it from the silicone or epoxy holding it in place. If it widens the opening in the transom a bit, don't worry because the new tube will be a bit bigger.
Pull the stuffing tube out through the back of the boat after it breaks loose.
Drill the transom hole for the tube with the 7/32" bit
Drill the other end with the 7/32" bit also
Cut the7/32" tube to the same length as the stock tube removed
Install the 7/32" tube in the hull, Use epoxy to hold it in place
Remove the brass bushings from the strudder (short piece at each end)
Drill the strudder with the 1/4" bit.
Measure and cut the 1/4" tubeto the length of the strudder (1 piece)
Install the 1/4" tube in the strudder and CA glue in place
Assemble the flex shaft (if needed)
Install the teflon liner in the stuffing tube, cut to length (to the back end of the strudder) CA glue in place
Grease and install the flex cable in the boat
Couple it to your motor that I forgot to tell you to install.
Add a prop... I think you can take it from there.
End of Diegoboy/FE Wannbe Instructions

I know this is a long post, but I wanted to be fairly thorough.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Brad

[brad65]

Oh lord, you guys are great. I will read through and go over everthing and diside what I'm gonna do. Guys post some videos of you Apache's running, we need play catch-up with our bigger brother LOL.

[FE Wannabe]

Oh lord, you guys are great. I will read through and go over everthing and diside what I'm gonna do. Guys post some videos of you Apache's running, we need play catch-up with our bigger brother LOL.

No problem Brad, glad to be of assistance.
I ran mine yesterday afternoon and I broke my .130 flex cable half way between the transom and the outdrive. After I brought it back in I could tell the outdrive had way too much of a positive angle and I think that put too much stress on the flex cable. I noticed that it was running a little slower than normal as well. I thought it might have been the new rudder setup causing the drag, but after the cable broke, I think it was the outdrive angle that caused the break.

On the plus side though, the inline rudder did save my prop shaft, prop, drive dog and prop nut when the cable snapped. In addition, the new rudder setup did turn a lot smoother without hooking, even with the high COG. I still think I will gut the interior to lower the COG. At least there is some progress.
I will see if I can get some video once I get my cable replaced.

Brad

[Diegoboy]

Brad,

My list of parts might vary from some others, you can "skin this cat" more than one way.
I used a .130 cable with a teflon liner, so I used 7/32" brass tubing for the hull from transom to motor.
I also used a stinger bushing in the outdrive so I drilled my outdrive to 1/4" and installed 1/4" brass tubing cut to length and then inserted a stinger bushing in the strut for the 3/16" prop shaft to run in. The stinger bushing holds grease better for increased lubrication.
Here is my parts list:

1 piece 7/32" brass tube
1 piece 1/4" brass tube
1 ea Stinger Sleeve bushing
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdsd-187

1ea .130 cable with teflon and 3/16" stepped down to 1/8" propshaft
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc64pkg

1ea motor/flex shaft coupler (motor shaft size x .130)

CA glue for securing teflon liner inside brass tubing
Epoxy for securing the new brass tubing to the hull.
7/32" drill bit for transom and motor mount end of brass tube to open the hole larger.
1/4" drill bit for outdrive to open the hole for the 1/4" brass tube.

I would follow Diegoboy's directions(below) on removing the stuffing tube on the link that Z28 provided but I would add one thing: if you carefully heat the stock stuffing tube with a soldering iron it will help the epoxy release its hold on the stuffing tube. Sometimes the epoxy will make a cracking sound when it starts to release. Just be careful how much heat you apply, because you more than most, know how thin the ABS hull is and you don't want to melt it. If you don't heat it, you have to twist the tube and the hull fairly hard for the epoxy to release.

Diegoboy's removal/install instructionswith my modifications:
Pull out the Motor
Pull out the drive shaft
Remove the strudder
Apply heat to stock stuffing tube with care.
Using needle nose pliers, Grab the stuffing tube in the boat, and twist to free it from the silicone or epoxy holding it in place. If it widens the opening in the transom a bit, don't worry because the new tube will be a bit bigger.
Pull the stuffing tube out through the back of the boat after it breaks loose.
Drill the transom hole for the tube with the 7/32" bit
Drill the other end with the 7/32" bit also
Cut the7/32" tube to the same length as the stock tube removed
Install the 7/32" tube in the hull, Use epoxy to hold it in place
Remove the brass bushings from the strudder (short piece at each end)
Drill the strudder with the 1/4" bit.
Measure and cut the 1/4" tubeto the length of the strudder (1 piece)
Install the 1/4" tube in the strudder and CA glue in place
Assemble the flex shaft (if needed)
Install the teflon liner in the stuffing tube, cut to length (to the back end of the strudder) CA glue in place
Grease and install the flex cable in the boat
Couple it to your motor that I forgot to tell you to install.
Add a prop... I think you can take it from there.
End of Diegoboy/FE Wannbe Instructions

I know this is a long post, but I wanted to be fairly thorough.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Brad

Wow! Good job!

[FE Wannabe]

Thanks Diegoboy, I learned from the best, aka, you. Besides most of the content was from you, anyway.

[Diegoboy]

I like the details you added. It's awesome!