Ouch!

[mikiek]

I went ahead and taped and painted this evening. I want to get this over with. I'll do a little blending at the edges of the new paint, then clearcoat. Won't be good as new but it should work.

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I noticed that I left the gap at the prop/strut a little bigger than recommended. I've closed it down to 2 mm. The problem is the impeller from the motor moves in and out about 1-2 mm so depending where that is my prop gap can be right on or a little big. I understand about the shaft getting some twist in it when the motor torques it and that the twisting pretty much stops when the drive dog hits the strut. But would someone mind explaining the implications of the gap being too big or too small.

Here's a shot of the right shaft that I happened to notice didn't look quite right. It was definitely about to have a problem. Can't figure out how it happened.
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[fweasel]

That flex cable looks like it was overheated from friction right in front of the collet, or, possibly even slipping in the collet itself. Hard to know for sure without seeing where it falls when inserted.

The gaps at the struts are for the reason you described. The 1-2mm axial play from the motor shaft is normal. Set your gap as the motor spindle sits naturally. I usually leave about the thickness of the cable itself as my guide. You're not really going to ever have too much gap, unless you get ridiculous with it, the only side effect would possibly be uneven wear on strut bearing surfaces and problems with not enough cable in the collet. Not enough gap and the drive dog can bind against the strut when the cable winds up causing friction and increased load on the electrical system. Problems ranging from increased heat and noise or as bad as burnt up motors and ESC's. In the future, I spend money on any more stock flex cables. The upgraded cables from OSE or even the wire drives from Wohlt's are a much higher quality options. They're built better, stronger and run truer.

As for pulling the cables, I use just two 10mm box wrenches, both at the work bench, and in my field box. The water inside the hull may have been a leak between the strut and hull mating surface. I, and others, have cured that by sealing it with a small amount of silicone caulk.

[mikiek]

I definitely have that same leak. I see grease oozing out from behind the strut. I put some sealer on the strut that I had to remove yesterday. I'm gonna put a task down to do the same to the other when I regrease the cable.

Will check out the shaft upgrade for sure.

[Doby]

Your repair looks good..but please keep in mind that there are considerable forces put on a fiberglass hull when it meets a concrete wall..even an sideswipe.
Not the boats fault.

My 42"cat sideswiped another during a race..it opened up his hull very similar to yours...and that was fiberglass on fiberglass.

[mikiek]

You are absolutely right Doby. Complete foolishness on my part even trying to run in that pond. I've thought - maybe when I get better control of the boat. Learn to turn on a dime. But in the end it's still foolishness. Especially when I have a huge expanse of water practically in my backyard.

I'm trying to see the bright side. I have disassembled/reassembled most of the boat. A good learning experience. And you guys have filled me with lots of good information. That's a win.

[Mxkid261]

Repairs look good. Can't get upset at the boat though and think it should be able to kiss a concrete wall. Even if you had reinforcements over the seams it still likely would've cracked. Not much give in concrete.

[mikiek]

Thanks Mxkid261. I will be staying away from anything concrete in the future. This is my first speed boat so I really didn't know what to expect. I am still surprised at the damage but am more than willing to chalk this one off as user error.

Guess I'm just used to RC sailboats which I have done for quite some time. Not a scratch or dent on any of the boats. I'm getting the impression that scratches and dents are to be expected with the speed boats.

Last nite I mixed up some clear epoxy then added a few drops of the Zelos Yellow I mixed up. Painted that just on the cracks and gouges. It was thin enough so that it leveled out very nicely. The big crack almost disappeared. And it's a fair match to the original color.

I think all the taping and painting I did earlier was a waste. The colored epoxy is what I will do from now on. Long live the WEST system

I'll post some pix this evening.

[Mxkid261]

Battle wounds happen lol. You may even see some small cracks here and there in the gelcoat eventually after more use and depending how hard you run it.