NEW Pro Boat "ZELOS 36" Twin Cat

[JPriami]

I got my Zelos 36 today. Looks really nice & the hardware looks really good too. Im glad Proboat has been doing good things with their models. I was happy to see the in hull water pickups & nice rudder setup as well.

Im curious about the esc program card. Looks just like a turnigy/seaking/hobbywing esc program box. Will any of the esc programs cards I mention that look similar work all the same on these esc's?
download (1).jpgdownload.jpgDYNS3005-250.jpg

Also is there enough room to put two 5000Mah 4s 14.8v or two 5000Mah 6s 22.2v packs under the lid & power each esc directly from each pack? Meaning not using a harness. I haven't measured yet so I thought Id ask. Might have to mount in sponsons?

The props look like x442 pair replicas. Anyone try anything else with the stock setup (motors & esc's) other than prop sharpening & balancing?

Also would a couple 40mm by 74mm with cans fit inside there okay on stock mounts?

[kfxguy]

Raphael is at an event with the zelos right now. I'll answer what I can.

The hobbywing Seaking program card does work, the marine version does. The car version I had no luck.

Stacked on top of each other, (4) 5000 3s won't work. So for sure 4s won't work. But smaller mah (4000ish) 3s will work. Now I think you can put 4 batts flat....another pair to the front.

I haven't tried any different props yet (well I did but it flipped in quick order...needs strut adjustment) I do havens few things to try if the weather clears up.

I wouldn't put much heavier or longer motors on the stock mounts without some rear support. They are strong but a longheavy motor may stress the mounts.

It will handle moderately rough water on 4s. I wouldn't run it on 6 s in rough stuff unless you have a way to get it. Also if it's rough enough to unload the props constantly then I definitely wouldn't for fear of motor damage.


There is plent of room for two 4s packs to power each esc seperately

[Keagan-Z06]

Kfx, does dual 4s overheat anything? I assume motor and ESC would need upgrade?

[kfxguy]

Kfx, does dual 4s overheat anything? I assume motor and ESC would need upgrade?

If you are running 4s to each motor. Not in series to make 8s, that would fry the escs. 4s runs mid 40's on stock props and would handle some chop. I posted some vids of mine in my thread.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Kfx, does dual 4s overheat anything? I assume motor and ESC would need upgrade?

Can you clear up what you mean by dual 4s? Do you mean 2, 4s packs total; 4s to each ESC?

[Keagan-Z06]

Hey Rafael,
2 4s packs total I'm referring to.

[Rafael_Lopez]

You can connect 2-6s to each ESC individually. The lower the voltage, the less amps each motor will comsume. Also, everything will run cooler with less voltage.

[Yellow]

So its obviously more efficient to run four (4) 3s battery packs total? Two (2) 3s packs in series for 6s power on each motor?
Whats the little "black" buttons right next to the esc on/off buttons for? I couldn't find that in the manual, so I thought I would ask.
Will four (4) 6s battery packs ran in parallel fit under the canopy?
I have to still purchase batteries, and would like to get an idea of what kind and how many.
What quad charger would you recommend?
With fast strait runs and corner drifting, and just fast fun boating period, how much "average" run time can a person expect with "four" 3s batteries at 5000mah each? 5 minutes?

Thanks in advance for the help.

P.S. Why would anybody want to run this boat on 4s? I'm not trying to sound ignorant, I just don't know.

[Rafael_Lopez]

They say pictures are worth a thousand words. Notice the speed difference between running 4 packs and 2 packs. A lot of your answered are in these pictures. This video will explain more as well. http://youtu.be/yxKhCWo6NVY

[JPriami]

Thanks for the pics there Rafael. Im curious why 4 packs at 22.2v vs 2 packs at 22.2v would give you faster speeds? Its only 2.4 Mph though. That could just be variations in water conditions or wind. I'd think the extra weight would cause it to be a little slower if anything.

So my next question is are 3s 5000Mah 11.1v packs the largest that will fit under the lid on the trays? I was thinking of ordering a couple of 5000Mah 14.8v 4s packs and power each ESC directly with no extra crossover plugs.
So far I have two 7.4v 90C 7500Mah packs Ill use for 14.8v & two 11.1v 65C 6000Mah packs for 22.2v

Im still waiting to go run mine I got it this Saturday. I have had time to go over it in depth. I found the prop shafts where they solder to the flex cables are a little bent. It made it very difficult to remove the cables when I inspected the line for lubrication. Also the rudder cable on the left side must have been gripped with a pair of pliers when they put the ball end on it. You could see and feel where the pliers slipped and made a groove. That was preventing the cable from moving as it should. Plus the coating on the wire/cable is coming off easily. So I added a little mercury teflon marine grease on them when I put them back in to help the slide factor.

In the mean time, patiently waiting.

[Keagan-Z06]

That's a beauty, can't wait to get mine end of the week hopefully.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Please see my comments in bold. Those are some really nice pictures.

Thanks for the pics there Rafael. Im curious why 4 packs at 22.2v vs 2 packs at 22.2v would give you faster speeds? Its only 2.4 Mph though. That could just be variations in water conditions or wind. I'd think the extra weight would cause it to be a little slower if anything.

Those pictures were taken on the same day, within just a couple hours. Parallel systems are less efficient because both ESCs have to share the same amperage. If you have 2, 5000 mAh 50C packs in series, they deliver 250 amps which has to be shared between both system. If you have 2, 5000mAh packs in in series to each system( 4 packs total), now they each get 250A individually. So 1, each system will run more efficiently, and 2, your batteries don't have to work as hard to feed both systems. This is apparent by the increase of speed shown in the pictures I posted. It may not seem lot a huge gain, but my batteries were warmer and I got better run time. As to the weight, we found yesterday at the NAMBA 2 lap event that the boat handles better with the weight. But in all honesty, it really comes down to the type of boating you are doing and the packs you have available.

So my next question is are 3s 5000Mah 11.1v packs the largest that will fit under the lid on the trays? I was thinking of ordering a couple of 5000Mah 14.8v 4s packs and power each ESC directly with no extra crossover plugs.
So far I have two 7.4v 90C 7500Mah packs Ill use for 14.8v & two 11.1v 65C 6000Mah packs for 22.2v

3S packs are the max voltage packs you can fit in the battery tray, under the deck, as shown in both pictures. I run my packs all the way in there because I run my struts with only 1mm of negative angle, which allows me to run the boat is most any water condition without too much risk of flipping backwards. 5000 4s and 6s packs don't fit under the deck to place the batteries that far forward, so you will need to adjust more negative angle than 1mm to trim out your boat. This is also the case with props with high rake, which require 2-3mm of negative angle to compensate for lack of lift. The bot fits 6s packs just fine, but you need to replace the straps with ones that are at least 300mm long. The straps are just long enough to secure 5000mAh 4s packs.

Im still waiting to go run mine I got it this Saturday. I have had time to go over it in depth. I found the prop shafts where they solder to the flex cables are a little bent. It made it very difficult to remove the cables when I inspected the line for lubrication. Also the rudder cable on the left side must have been gripped with a pair of pliers when they put the ball end on it. You could see and feel where the pliers slipped and made a groove. That was preventing the cable from moving as it should. Plus the coating on the wire/cable is coming off easily. So I added a little mercury teflon marine grease on them when I put them back in to help the slide factor. Are you describing score marks on the "plunger" portion of the push/pull system with the red end on it?

In the mean time, patiently waiting.

[JPriami]

Thanks for the info and tips on the batteries Rafael. Yes on the rudder push pull system sore marks on the plunger. The marks were on the steel shafts part that goes in & out of the mock up hydraulics.

I'll get some pictures of her on the lake soon. Photography is another hobby of mine so it's fun to run my rc & get pictures too.

[kfxguy]

Thanks for the info and tips on the batteries Rafael. Yes on the rudder push pull system sore marks on the plunger. The marks were on the steel shafts part that goes in & out of the mock up hydraulics.

I'll get some pictures of her on the lake soon. Photography is another hobby of mine so it's fun to run my rc & get pictures too.

Well Raphael can't control everything lol. If they were all hand build by him I'm sure they would all be perfect, but unfortunately he has a life and can't build them all for us so sometimes things slip through the cracks . Once you run it, your going to fall in love with it :). I know I did. All of my other boats are mad at me right now because they haven't been getting any attention lately. I did finally bring another boat with me yesterday but just to maiden it lol.

[JPriami]

I'm sure he would. I don't post this stuff to complain. I figure since someone from the company is here and might see a post. That maybe they would have some clout to mention these things to production to make sure little quirks like this could be avoided. Long ago one of my past jobs was working at a boat factory for real boats. So I know it can be valuable quality control.

I can't wait to go run. Weather has turned cool again here.