Bought a ProBoat Stealthwake to play with

[be8843]

This seems to be the only boat they don't have a larger version of.

[skeeler]

Well, I guess if enough Stealthwakes sell, they would offer a larger model.

[skeeler]

By the way, I like that they've given this boat a bit of military styling. It looks a bit like a Visby-class corvette:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visby-class_corvette

That gives this boat a different visual feel than the others in the line-up.

[YasikB]

hey guys, have a question... i got the stealthwake and the boat is amazing, love it. Have a few questions.
1. how do i get the water out of the haul after a run? Do i need to drill a small hole at the front, like on Traxxas Blast?
2. If i do a little damage to the haul, considering its ABS plastic, how can it be fixed? ran in to a post on the last run, no major damage but a small knick on the nose of the haul.
3. i have a trailer for the boat, i want somehow to secure the boat at the front on the trailer, may be attach a small loop on the haul and then use a bunggy cord to attach to the trailer. any ideas how to do it?

Thanks for the help ahead of time

[arrover]

I use a paper towel or microfiber towel to soak up any water that might be in the hull after a run. Always leave the canopy off so that the boat can air dry. Sorry but I don't know how to fix ABS hull damage or about your trailer issue.

[fweasel]

I use a paper towel or microfiber towel...

Wow, look who's back!

[martin]

For repairs on ABS you want a 2 part acrylic glue, ordinary epoxy dosnt stick that well to ABS. You can use Devcon Plastic Welder adhesive that sticks very well to ABS. Their are various other makes of plastic weld glues on the market but Devcon I find one of the better ones on ABS.

[arrover]

Wow, look who's back!

Haha! I keep tabs on threads I've been involved with in the past and new products. I just haven't been RC boating much lately.

[Davey80]

This has been a great project but my opinion is that for maximum FUN, this boat is best left close to stock. Ideally it would have a small water cooled brushless motor and ESC and a metal prop. Keep the speed around 20-25mph and maintain that fun rough water ability. I believe that the Impulse 31V2 stainless prop is the same pitch and diameter as the stock plastic Stealthwake prop (1.6x 40mm)

Thanks for the great info on setting up this boat. I'm getting ready to purchase one and am going to throw a small Dynamite brushless system in and add the metal prop as you recommended. I do have a question on the drive system though. How important would you say it is to swap the direct drive over to a flex shaft? If i'm sticking to 2-3S and around 30mph, do you feel the stock driveshaft is up to the task or would there be some diminished performance with the negative strut/prop angle?

Thanks, Mark D.

[arrover]

I only ran the stock drive system with the stock motor. I changed to the flex shaft and the brushless motor at the same time so I can't comment from experience. It seems to me that the stock prop angle will continue to force the bow down harder as you put more power into it. It might not handle well but I can't say for sure. Rafael also recommended getting the prop level.

[Davey80]

I only ran the stock drive system with the stock motor. I changed to the flex shaft and the brushless motor at the same time so I can't comment from experience. It seems to me that the stock prop angle will continue to force the bow down harder as you put more power into it. It might not handle well but I can't say for sure. Rafael also recommended getting the prop level.

Rgr, thanks. So it didn't look in the picture like a strut was added when you switched over to the flex cable. Just want to make sure I got that correct. Is the tight fitment of the 9/32 tubing through the ABS hull enough support when running brushless?

Mark

[arrover]

You're correct, I didn't add a strut. The intent was to test it and then add one later but I never seemed to need one to support the stuffing tube. The stuffing tube never moved so I didn't add a strut. I would recommend not having a super tight fit between the stuffing tube and the hull. Mine was very tight and it caused a hull split. So make it a snug fit and then secure it inside with epoxy. I'm not saying my methods were the best way to build a Stealthwake, it's just how I did it and wanted to share.

[Stealthwakedeeznutz]

Hey just wondering if you tried to use the sturut from a shockwave 26 along with the tube and flex shaft. I’m trying to go flex shaft but not sure if it will work I really want to avoid cracking my hull😬

[arrover]

No, I never tried the shockwave strut. It might work though. There is another in depth stealthwake build on this forum. You should see what he used because I believe he did install a strut.

[fweasel]

If you don't want to crack the hull, simply open the dimater of the hole in the transom ever so slightly so that the new stuffing tube doesn't split anything open. You need to cover the entry point on the inside of the hull with epoxy anyways, so a little increased tolerance won't hurt anything.

The Shockwave strut doesn't really do much for this application because it sits so close to the transom and the stuffing tube runs all the way through the strut itself. There would be no vertical or trim angle adjustment. The Recoil 26 strut at least has a bushing in it, which would allow you a small amount of adjustment if there was a little slop in the fitment between your new stuffing tube and the strut body. I used an adjustable stinger when I replaced my solid shaft with a flex cable. I cut the new brass stuffing tube flush with the rear of the hull (through a new, higher hole in the transom) and ran a longer teflon liner out past the transom and into the stinger. This gave me all of the vertical trim adjustment I needed because the teflon liner can flex outside of the hull.