I love the 48 but sometimes it's just not as convenient as a 36 due to the size and weight. I will probably eventually end up with both but I want a V also, and maybe a hydro. Lol! It never ends.
I thought the same thing but for right now the Voracity and Zelos Twin do just fine! If I had to buy a third boat I don't know what I would get. I'm really hoping Rafael doesn't release another boat anytime soon. lol
Damn that's a big boat and the craftsmanship and that esc, servo,motor and hardware are fricken outstanding!!! Well done Rafael and the Proboat team. I managed to bring her home fully unpacked still in shipping box via local transit system (bus) took up 5 seats at the back of the bus. Cost was $2.50 cents over taxi $70 bucks. I turned those savings into beer of-course. Bottom line until you hold one in your hands you really cant appreciate the true beauty of the Zelos 48". With that said I just ordered the 36" twin.
Buckman
I had some weird cutouts with the last two runs. The boat would just stop dead. But - if I let the trigger out on the TX then back in straight away - the boat would take off again. First run though - I picked up a stray piece of foam pool noodle in the lake that wrapped around the rudder and I guess would have been causing drag. Frikkin pain. Second run - I noticed the water hose I placed over the end of the stuffing tube at the motor/coupler end had split apart and I'm not convinced it wasn't fouling the flex somehow.
So Question: Could the cutouts be overamping due to the gumpf fouling the rudder in the first run and the tubing fouling the flex in the second? Just shooting for possible causes - haven't had the these coutouts before.
Batts are fairly new but..... Low voltage cutout?
Like I said. Boat would suddenly stop - but a quick let go of the Tx trigger and back in again and away I'd go. Might get another lap of the lake in before it'd happen again - and never on a speed section - it always seemed to be on a slower part of the run.
Ran 4 x 4S 60C 5000mah batts in 8S configuration. Stock 48mm prop.
Hottest temps I measured on the ESC ( finally got a temp gun) were 114F (45.5C) on the heatsink and 118F (47.7) on the caps. That is less than a minute after coming back to shore. No real heat in any other components.
Could the coutouts be RX related?? Some sort of brown out?? In my experience - that generally means a longer delay though before the link establishes again.
Still getting bounce at speed. So will try some negative strut angle and maybe the 3 blade prop (48mm x 1.4 pitch) - if you guys think those ESC temps are ok.
Any chance of a side on pic of a strut on a nicely running boat so I can get a look at it?
When you described your problem I was thinking RX issue but I'm not an expert. Has there been any moisture in your boat that could have gotten in the receiver? Or could the antenna wire have been cut or frayed? Just some thoughts....
Yes.... it did get a few drops on it at one time when a water hose split. I did give it a corrosion x spray from new but I suppose moisture may still have gotten to it. Have a few MR200'S I might try in it (with my old Tx) if I have no joy. Antenna wire isn't cut or frayed & appears ok.
Yes.... it did get a few drops on it at one time when a water hose split. I did give it a corrosion x spray from new but I suppose moisture may still have gotten to it. Have a few MR200'S I might try in it (with my old Tx) if I have no joy. Antenna wire isn't cut or frayed & appears ok.
Notwithstanding extensive testing done on these boats, it seems to me that having a naked rx makes it vulnerable to moisture ingress at some point. Placing the rx inside a balloon or sealed plastic box is logical. I have lost radio control a few times (eg FE30 and Popeye) when the rx got wet either through leaking deck seal or water seeping up thru the stuffing tube.
FE30, Kintec Pursuit, Revolt 30, ML GP400 V2, Blackjack 29 (RIP), HK Outer Limits
Ive submarined my voracity ripping the canopy off to where the boat was completely submerged with only the tip floating above water for 30-60 seconds before recovery and all my electronics continue to function normally, props to horizon electronics.
I have not had that much of luck when it comes to the receiver. I'm on my second one, I decided since I don't live in the US I can't be buying receivers all willy nilly so I built a little plastic box for it with glue gun. Never got a drop of water in that sucker again. The balloon idea might be done for the Zelos Twin although water doesn't flood that boat like it did with my voracity. I will eventually put silicone in all those screw holes on d transom.
Iron Paw, your cut out issues sound like radio glitch or batteries dropping below voltage. But i've never experienced anything like what you described with this ESC and none of the testers reported anything like it.
The push button switch on the ESC is a momentary switch. I changed our ESCs to this type of switch for one reason. The ESC must see power from the LiPo to operate. This translates to taking the guess out of cut out due to loss of power. If your ESC loses connection with the LiPo your boat is dead in the water until you press the button again. Now, this doesn't mean that your ESC may not be having BEC issues, which I have never seen before with any of our ESCs. The BEC issue can be tested be removing the red wire in to the receiver and running and external RX battery/BEC, if you have one. The other thing you can try is to use another radio or receiver, or both, to see if anything changes. You can also lower or remove the LiPo cutoff to see if that is what is happening., being cautions not to run too long or you will damage your LiPos.
It turned out to be Low Voltage Cutout. Hmmmmm - I didn't have that happening to begin with but nevertheless it's certainly happening now. Have lost some speed somewhere along the line too so something's changed - although lake *was* glassy today..... In any case - I redid the wiring harness today as some of the soldering joints I wasn't entirely happy with. I reset the motor alignment as I noted the vertical angle could be a little better. Noted too that the strut had shifted from where I set it to and I was getting more bounce back in my runs - so I redid all that and clamped it down a little tighter. We'll see how it goes next time. Might be that the Batts I bought aren't as good as reported...... stop the press.....
I can confirm that the Hobbywing program card works for this ESC. I set my LVC from 3.2v back to 3.0v per cell without issue & will now time my runs. No more cutouts after I made that change. Only thing is that this ESC has a 5th setting that the hobbywing (seaking's) do not. Any Idea what that 5th setting is?
Next question: The front of the right-hand sponson often seems like it wants to dig into the water in a sort of twisting motion. Only at speed though when I'm getting the bounce. Does that ring any setup bells for anyone?
Caps reading 127F at the end of a full run. That's getting hottish right?
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