help with shockwave 26

[kfxguy]

thanks everyone yall have informed me on alot of info, i just may never be happy with this boat, because me need for speed and racing my son. so don't know it i want to spend any more money on it, if i sell it have know idea what it is worth, i like cats very much and want a hydro worst case i will turn it into a rescue boat. got to think on this some

What size cat are you wanting? What's your speed goal?

[okieman98]

30 inch are so is the size i like, been looking at the small bolt and the Genesis Offshore, and a few drag hulls. 50 mph are so also the new sea fire

[kfxguy]

30 inch are so is the size i like, been looking at the small bolt and the Genesis Offshore, and a few drag hulls. 50 mph are so also the new sea fire

50mph? Cake. I did that with my shockwave 26 today.



If you want a car around 30" then here's some choices:
Mean machine (29.5")
Rivercat/apparition (32")
Cheetah (34")
Aeromarine sprint cat 40 (36")
Daytona/genesis (37")

These are the common ones I know about. I'm sure there are more.

[RCBoaterGuy]

Kintec's got some m642 CNC props, bit smaller than your runnin - worth a try??

Also have CNC x444 & x445 - you seem to like the bigger props, think the 445 is also worth a try??

Less than $50 for both... Gettin ready to do an order, so ship $$ not an issue.

...In stock trim it do do right at 30 but the shaft was binding and then seized....
Try that prop shaft polishing mod I showed in post #11, I could really feel the diff just assembling by hand before lube - I use the Grim Racer grease.

Gettin a TP motor from Doug for my IM31 - decided to try the PB-1800 in my SW26 with Turnigy 120A marine ESC - just finished addin CC 5.5's for the esc<->motor & EC5 split tops for the batt.

Waiten for mixing cups so I can finish filling the front with foam, then final assy.

I never tried the 440 cnc prop on my original shockwave or the new one. On the original I ran only carbon props. It liked a 48mm if i remember correctly. I ran a castle 1512 in it, which was downright unruly and uncontrollable on 4s. Did pretty decent on 3s.

The new boat I've run a cnc 443 and an m645 with the castle 1415. I like the 1415 much better, the boat is drivable and pretty fast on 3s. It does not roll or prop walk. It actually drives like it did stock. I did add some two part foam to the front because it had a little sheet of Styrofoam for floatation. ..which I doubt will float it should it fill with water. This new hull is stiffer. ..noticeably...and a little heavier. I did sharpen the rudder and the cnc prop for the next run. Should easily pass 40 on 3s and 50 on 4s....if it can handle it. I'll get some video of it.

In stock trim it do do right at 30 but the shaft was binding and then seized. I think it may have gone a little faster had that not happened. I still have the motor and esc that came in it....haven't decided what I'm doing with it just yet. Only has one run on them before i put the other stuff in.

[okieman98]

this is how mine is set up most like a lot of yalls 101_2280.jpg

[okieman98]

guys i still new at this so i ask some dumb questions but u have a new 22kv motor if i change it out and run the same esc on 3s will i gain anything are burn something up

[kfxguy]

guys i still new at this so i ask some dumb questions but u have a new 22kv motor if i change it out and run the same esc on 3s will i gain anything are burn something up

Probably smoke the esc

[RCBoaterGuy]

Stock ESC's are barely adequate. That applies to most RTR's, not just the SW26's.

Case in point... the new green SW26's... went to Dynamite RC's website & got the manual for the motor in those boats, second line down it states "Max Current 100A". But the stock ESC is only rated at 30A

Surf through this forum and look at the mods guys do to their RTR boats... Revolt 30, Motley Crew, Lucas Oil, Impulse 31's (v1 & v2), list goes on. One of the first changes is to replace the stock ESC with a Seaking / Turnigy 120A or 180A unit. There's a reason for that...

New motor = new ESC - if you want trouble free performance.

guys i still new at this so i ask some dumb questions but u have a new 22kv motor if i change it out and run the same esc on 3s will i gain anything are burn something up

[okieman98]

Stock ESC's are barely adequate. That applies to most RTR's, not just the SW26's.

Case in point... the new green SW26's... went to Dynamite RC's website & got the manual for the motor in those boats, second line down it states "Max Current 100A". But the stock ESC is only rated at 30A

Surf through this forum and look at the mods guys do to their RTR boats... Revolt 30, Motley Crew, Lucas Oil, Impulse 31's (v1 & v2), list goes on. One of the first changes is to replace the stock ESC with a Seaking / Turnigy 120A or 180A unit. There's a reason for that...

New motor = new ESC - if you want trouble free performance.

Motor seen above pulls 27A @ peak efficiency - now look @ the ESC - no hiccups & both ran stone cold.

I ordered the 120 from china so waiting the 22kv I already have is going to be to much an 3 s right

[okieman98]

well just rereading everything trying to soak it all in, i am old and a little slow lol, but u guys are teaching me alot of stuff very quickly. i also have a motley crew which i really like. i have a very low budget and only can order once a month . so i am always trying to look a little ahead. since i am gutting the sw26 and putting new esc and motor in it. that leaves me with some good parts left to use in a new hull. what would be a good choice for these left overs, a rigger , hydro plane are buy something like the tfl small bolt and swap the stuff out . thanks to all of u

[okieman98]

Set mine quite a bit different than that... see attached - pix taken just before maiden run. Was easily doing the same speeds as kfxguy's green machine in stock trim - 28~30mph on glass water.

ESC has been replaced with Turnigy 120A I recommended in earlier post - last night installed Castle 5.5's for motor<->esc & EC5 split tops for the batt. Got some clear RTV from the maintenance guy @ my apts earlier today to fill in the open area where the motor wires / water pipes come out. It was stone cold, have to wait overnight to get to room temp. Will take before / after pix tomorrow.

Motor is going to PB-1800Kv (gray can & cooler) from IM-31 attached to hull with IM31 motor mount & connected with Octura 5mm->.150" short coupler.

Prop was stock plastic - now optional stainless S&B'ed. Going to experiment with other size's on third run. Second run will be test new setup.

Prop shaft + bushing polished per instructions above.

Water lines are Prather... http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...tid=LARGEWATER

Servo = Traxxas 2075 high speed, high torque, ball bearing. Hold down strap = home made from K&S stainless stock. Rudder pushrod was IM31 cut down - now home made, HOR racing 120mm dual threaded 2mm rod with blue DuBro ends.

Receiver = Tactic TR-624 water proofed with this stuff... http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape - see attached pix - balloons are bad, attract condensation, condensation is bad.

External antenna's create drag, drag slows down your boat. Antenna hole plugged with epoxy.

Hull - mixing cups arrived today, now can finish filling the front with foam to make it stiffer - will take updated pix when complete.

Summary, a boat that goes fast & handles good is the product of attention to the details, not the one with the biggest, baddest most powerful motor. Doesn't matter if it's a plastic RTR or a Revolt 30 / IM31 / Lucus Oil / UL-1, etc etc.

Hope that helps...

did u open up the receiver to treat it. just trying to understand what i see in the photos

[RCBoaterGuy]

Yes - the 624's have 4 tabs, 2 on each side - see attached - I drew a line to the top 2. Use small jewelers screwdriver - start at one corner & work my way around. Reason for the 6-chan rx's is cuz they have short external antenna, lot cheaper too - get'em for as little as $10 shipped. -- 324's have internal antenna only, I've had too many issues with them on water, work great on land though.

Clean the circuit board with denatured alcohol to remove any solder flux residue that might be on it from touch-up work done at the factory. Then clean with Ajax dish soap & hot water, blow dry.

Harness was made with wires from servo's / ESC's that went bad. Cover the 2 outside pins & every other in the middle, wrap a layer of electric tape around them to keep the coating off. Hook a paperclip through the top to hang it up.

Do three layers... first is lite, let cure for 4~6hrs. 2nd coat little thicker, cure overnight. 3rd coat is thickest, then cure for a couple days.

After re-assembling, put Testors Window Maker glue on the tabs to keep water out. Cover the top 4 sets of pins with a layer of electric tape, glue it down. Look @ 2nd pic in post #25, double click it'll go full screen, take a look @ the Rx, you can see the ports that have been covered.

First one I did is in the Tower Hobbies boat referenced in post #11. Like I said in the post, boat rolled over, took on a lot of water. Drained it out, put the boat back in the water & kept on goin.

2nd is in the SW26; it too got wet on the maiden run, again no issues - motor cooler was leaking a bit that's how the water got in.

did u open up the receiver to treat it. just trying to understand what i see in the photos

[RCBoaterGuy]

I'm 60... is that old

Get one check a month, VA pension. So like you I only so much $$ to go round.

Recommendation... put your SW26 left overs in your parts box for now and concentrate on fixing up your MC first... It too will benefit from an ESC upgrade to one of those Turnigy 120A units.
And these driveline parts... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...se-cable-mcrew -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=OSE-80990 -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S

If you don't have a metal prop, then you should consider getting one. Don't know enough about that boat to make recommendations. Here's the section for the MC's... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...shless-Q-amp-A -- I'm sure you'll find plenty of info on prop size's & the all important strut setup recommendations.

Regards,

well just rereading everything trying to soak it all in, i am old and a little slow lol, but u guys are teaching me alot of stuff very quickly. i also have a motley crew which i really like. i have a very low budget and only can order once a month . so i am always trying to look a little ahead. since i am gutting the sw26 and putting new esc and motor in it. that leaves me with some good parts left to use in a new hull. what would be a good choice for these left overs, a rigger , hydro plane are buy something like the tfl small bolt and swap the stuff out . thanks to all of u

[okieman98]

understand now thanks, i will give it a try

[okieman98]

I'm 60... is that old

Get one check a month, VA pension. So like you I only so much $$ to go round.

Recommendation... put your SW26 left overs in your parts box for now and concentrate on fixing up your MC first... It too will benefit from an ESC upgrade to one of
those Turnigy 120A units.
And these driveline parts... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...se-cable-mcrew -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=OSE-80990 -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S

If you don't have a metal prop, then you should consider getting one. Don't know enough about that boat to make recommendations. Here's the section for the MC's... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...shless-Q-amp-A -- I'm sure you'll find plenty of info on prop size's & the all important strut setup recommendations.

Regards,

those are on the order list for next month thanks