My New 27R

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  • Kent55
    Member
    • May 2012
    • 58

    #1

    My New 27R

    I made my maiden voyage last night. Wow, she is fun to drive - quick too. I love the rooster tail.
    And what a difference from "No Wake" to Planing.
    I didn't have time to play around with adjustments because it was getting dark and starting to lightning. But this is what it was doing.
    The water was extremely smooth. At full speed the boat rides high and wobbles side-to-side. Should I move the batteries forward?
    I can't believe how heavy she is with NiMH batteries in her belly.
    Last edited by Kent55; 05-26-2012, 09:09 AM.
  • mtbenjamin77
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2010
    • 761

    #2
    My SV27 is setup different but when mine starts to chine walk, wobble side to side, I just add a small amount of rudder by slightly turning the wheel at full speed.

    Comment

    • tlandauer
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2011
      • 5666

      #3
      Should check your COG, I forgot the percentage, for monos I seemed to remember between 27-30%. Measure the length of the hull and x 0.27 or .30, in the case of your boat it is 685 mm long and if you choose 30% then you get 205mm. Use a ruler and measure away from transom 205 mm. You then mark that point with a marker. The COG of course is towards the transom--sure you know that already. Now with the batteries in the boat move them forward and backward until the boat balances on that marked point. Real serious and technical guys balance the boat on a rig or something. I just place the hull on both of my index fingers until the hull no longer tips to either direction. ( bow and transom) .
      Run the boat with a more or less correct COG then correct the side-to-side wobbles---usually that means the trim tabs need to be adjusted.
      if you have only one set of batteries, make one pass and determine, look at the boat carefully. I recently adjusted a DF26, took many days because each adjustment is so incremental, be patient and that is actually the fun part .
      Forgot to say that you need to check the stinger , that also affects the attitude of the boat, but I would check the COG first.
      Last edited by tlandauer; 05-26-2012, 08:25 PM.
      Too many boats, not enough time...

      Comment

      • Kent55
        Member
        • May 2012
        • 58

        #4
        Great help guys. I moved the batteries forward a tad from where I had them last night and did glide smoother.

        Comment

        • Kent55
          Member
          • May 2012
          • 58

          #5
          Some pix of my run yesterday











          Comment

          • tlandauer
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Apr 2011
            • 5666

            #6
            These pics. look great, glad that you are having fun, the boat looks like it is handling these big waves with ease!
            Too many boats, not enough time...

            Comment

            • Kent55
              Member
              • May 2012
              • 58

              #7
              Thanks!!!
              Took her out today, for the holiday. I ran with the life size boats with their life size WAVES. The boat loves to bounce of the waves (only 4-6" tall). The water is a No Wake area. (actually the entire lake today) I was the fastest boat there!
              She disappeared underwater twice and did a back~flip another time (landed upside down).

              Only a little water got inside after all that. I have been using electrical tape.
              I broke the plastic prop after all this too.

              Time to flush out the motor and lube the shaft.
              Last edited by Kent55; 05-28-2012, 10:47 PM.

              Comment

              • mtbenjamin77
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2010
                • 761

                #8
                Kent,

                Awesome pics. The boat looks great, even sitting still. try out kintecracing.com or fightercatracing.com for some great aluminum props. theyre cheap and don't need to be balanced.

                Travis

                Comment

                • Kent55
                  Member
                  • May 2012
                  • 58

                  #9
                  Ok, so Monday night I loosened the Shaft Coupler and pulled the flex cable out. I wiped it off and a then applied Grim's Speed Grease along the entire cable. I also placed a glob at the opening of the Stringer. Then, re inserted the cable back in the boat moving the cable back & forth as it went in. I'm not boating again until Wednesday or Thursday so I took the flex cable back out and am storing it greased in a Zip Lock bag. Is this best? Or what is the time frame for storage? I will re-grease it when I bolt it back in.

                  I have not used the WD-40 yet. What do I do?
                  I disconnect all the water cooling tubes and spray it in? Unbolt the motor and spray it all over? If so, I will need to get some of that oil. (Bearing Oil)
                  Does the Radio box need to come out to remove the motor? It just seems like a lot.

                  Comment

                  • electric
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • May 2008
                    • 1744

                    #10
                    Hey, don't make this too hard. Just clean the shaft after a day of running, re-grease and then slide it back in and it is ready to go for the next time. Put a a drop or two of oil on the back and front of the motor where the metal shaft is and turn it a few time so it soaks in and your done. Some people do spray the interior of the motor with some stuff to keep it from coroding(name escapes me at the moment). We have like 7 or so of these boats and and I can tell you that some of my family members have done NOTHING other than grease the shaft and the boats are still running fine after a 2 or 3 years. So, you can go crazy with maintenance if you like to do those things or just run it and not worry too much about it.

                    Comment

                    • electric
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • May 2008
                      • 1744

                      #11
                      Oh Yes, remembered, Corrosion X. You spray that inside the motor itself and it will keep everythign inside from corroding. NOT that this is really a big problem for your boat at all though.

                      Comment

                      • mtbenjamin77
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2010
                        • 761

                        #12
                        yes i agre with electric, just grease the shaft and you'll be fine. I do put a drop or two of oil on the motor bearings then turn the motor a few times with my hand. you are running in fresh water right?

                        Comment

                        • mtbenjamin77
                          Senior Member
                          • Jul 2010
                          • 761

                          #13
                          it is good to remove the lid of the radio box and let it dry out in case some water did get inside. and if you have a bad flip and take on alot of water I'd recommend removing the balloon around the rx and letting that dry out. Go to walmart and pickup some good sized party balloons and ruber bands and always reinstall a new balloon.

                          Comment

                          • Kent55
                            Member
                            • May 2012
                            • 58

                            #14
                            Great info ALL. Is Corrosion X RC or Marine?
                            Should I do anything with the cooling tubes then?
                            And does the motor need to come out to oil or just drip a drop on the center of the top end?

                            Frest water runs for me right know. (Ohio)

                            Comment

                            • electric
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • May 2008
                              • 1744

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Kent55
                              Great info ALL. Is Corrosion X RC or Marine?
                              Should I do anything with the cooling tubes then?
                              And does the motor need to come out to oil or just drip a drop on the center of the top end?

                              Frest water runs for me right know. (Ohio)
                              Here is the corrosion x link:
                              http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hp?prod=corr-x

                              Nothing needed for the cooing tubes
                              Yes, just a DROP of oil in the center top end, the motor does not need to come out.
                              If you want to use the corrosion x then you probably want to pull the motor. Spray the inside of the motor with it and let it drip dry. Then re-install and you should not even think about doing it again for a year at least. The only exception is if you completely submerse the inside of the boat in water, then it would be good idea to pull it out and do it again.

                              Seriously though, even the motors I have seen put underwater numerous times with no treatement and everything still works fine. Pretty durable boat.

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