Brand New SV27!

[dtuma1980]

I'd like to introduce myself as I am new the RC boating and new to these forums.

I just bought a brand new SV27 - and I am looking for a 'Prepping' guide as I hope to be able to fire this bad boy up this weekend!

After performing a 'tub test' I found I have 2 small leaks from the bottom in the read of the boat. What is the recommended way of fixing this?

Also - if anyone can point me to a guide for disassembly I would be GREATLY appreciative!

(All Stock)
2 Props on the way
2 EP 4500's should be here tomorrow w/ charger!

Thanks!

[AZpdljumper]

Though I am fairly new here too I have a SV 27. Take apart all the hardware off and seal with silicone sealent. You will get a little leakage from the stuffing box intill you re lube the flex shaft but only about a tablespoon per run. Enjoy and start out slow at first. These things fly.

[dtuma1980]

I appreciate the advice, heading back to home depot for some silicon based something to get it all sealed uo nice and tight. hopefully i will get some pictures and vids of this process as i didn't find a 'How to guide' to dissassemble this hog!

[TCR]

The only disassembling I did was removing the black control box to access the transome. Remove the screw on the rudder(from servo), remove cooling hose from rudder and short tubing connection in the front(to motor). 2 screws on the front of the box hold it in, just watch the tab on the back of the box, slide the box forward. If your boat is new, pay real close attention to the hull and look for any cracking, mine had hairline cracks that are now much larger. I would have returned it, but I've used it now and my LHS won't take anything back opened and used. Also plan on removing the battery tray wood inserts and laying down velcro, as you will read all over this site; the only way to get the SV27 to handle is to move the batteries forward. The back of my packs are even w/ the antenna for best handling. Also grease the flex shaft even if brand new, these models dont come greased as they should be.

[dtuma1980]

I disassembled the entire boat except for the motor.

Removing the Black 'Water Proof' box wasn't too bad, just need to make sure to unscrew the steering mechanism from the rear, and unscrew the ball joint off the end. Next I removed the connectors to the motor and pulled the tubing from from the pick-up in back and where it lead into the motor's jacket.

The only thing I needed to do was to use some silicon along the bottom-side on the transom. It seemed to take on a little bit of water from the rear. I did pull the entire flex-shaft out and lube it with Lithium-Based white grease. I have seen a couple conflicting ideas about how often the shaft should be greased, any suggestions?

How free-flowing should 'air' move through the cooling tubing? I was able to blow air through it, but it seemed semi-restricted. I just want to ensure that water will move through the cooling system. The last thing I need to do is add excessive heat to a brand new setup up the first time I run.

Other than that, I am working on a setup to 'strap' my waterproof 'point and click' to the upper bow for some 'first person perspective' video - wish me luck!

[TCR]

I dont know if that grease is sufficient, I would use a blue marine grease. I cant say your grease won't work, I'm just saying everyone seems to use the marine grease w/ optimum results and speed.

[dtuma1980]

Wow - this weekend was awesome, but still had some 'newbie' issues.

My first run with the SV27 (prep'ed) and 2 EP 4500's went GREAT! I ran it for about 10-15 minutes. Didn't see any issues with the boat - but I ended up performing the 'super flip' (I was running in the middle of the lake from my boat) and took on some water.

I noticed that both batteries were showing 'condesation' on the inside of the wrap - I poked a few holes to help completely dry them out - if they weren't dry could this lead to performance issues (2-3 min runtimes, only rudder steering - no power)? I changed out the prop to the suggested 40x52/3 and was unable to get the boat to plane out and experienced probably a 1:30 runtime. Could this be due to the condensation in the battery? I do have the 2 blade suggested prop - but it doesn't look sharpened and I was hesitant to put it on the boat.

I have since let the batteries completely dry out. I now put 'each' battery into it's own 'rubber glove' and taped shut to ensure battery dryness. I did run twice with a little condensation - could/would this hurt the batteries / esc / motor?

Also the charger I purchased is the following:

Product ID: dh-dyn4033
Product Name: Dynamite Twin Peak Charger
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $69.99

How long should I leave the batteries on it? Unfortunately right now the batteries are completely charged and I am not sure how I should store them until my next use. This charger is supposed to charge to a full charge and then trickle charge - how long is too long to leave these batteries on the trickle charge? If I leave them plugged into the charger (with the charger unplugged), the charger seems to draw power to its 'fan' - is this a good way to 'de-charge' the batteries?

The paint did take a beating my first run, I lost about a quarter size piece of paint off the side (just below where the fiberglass is jointed) and I noticed on the other side, I have a hairline crack in the paint. I am thinking of stripping all the paint off and re-painting this guy - any suggestions on doing this or leaving it as is - I have no 'spray' gear etc...but I may have access to some people who do professional painting - just wondering if there is a 'suggested' paint to use.

Appreciate everyone's help - so far rekindling a childhood hobby that started with R/C cars is going GREAT....I think?!