Second day with my sv27 not to happy

[brad65]

Well I've only driven the boat 3 times so far and I'm unhappy. I'm running with maxamaps (2) 2s 4000mah which have enough balls which isn't my problem.

I have a couple of main complaints so far.

1: It cavasates like mad, I don't know if i need to change something on the angle of the shaft, or change the prop? I do have the upgrade grim polished prop just haven't installed it yet.
2: handling! Its all over the place! I've bend the trim taps down just alittle bit to help from bouncing but its still not enought. I have the lipo's in the stock locations with I read is no good they should be moved up. Why the hell didn't they do this then??
3: I'm having a hard time steering. Its like I need speed to keep the boat from cavasting but if I got to fast it spins around on its self. Just not fun out of the box.
4: I have a hair line crake staring about half way up the boat looks like its a seem fromt the factory.
5: Leaks, the first thing it did with tap up the hatch and entena hole. And I'm still getting water in her. I've read I need to take something apart and expoxy. WTF they can't make it water proof its not like its a boat.
6: After driving for 5 mins the motor is very warm. I'm surprised it was as warm as it was. I'm hoping not to kill the motor if I run back to back runs with 2 or 3 sets of batterys.

I love rc'ing I've been in the hobby for years so I know things are perfect out of the box or sometime will never be. But I'm dissapointed that this thing is so far off from being able to handle the spead out of the box. I'm not happy with this purchase, I think I'd rather have a BlackJack26 at this point in time, sorry guys. So far the only think that looks nice is the hardware out back which I've read you need to purchase the other side turn fin and that also is to short lol. Just unhappy guys sorry to rant. Someone convince me this thing is worth the time tweaking or modding to make enjoyable fast rc bushless boat.

[Steven Vaccaro]

If you check the sv threads there is tons of info on those issues.

[SweetZ28]

Hi the water in the boat sounds like a leaky water jacket on your motor hence why it's very warm.... Next with lipos they are lighter so your boat will pop out of the water more maybe try moving them around in the boat with velcro in different locations... swap your prop for a Graupner Carbon Fiber 45MM prop this will make it start up on a dime.... Last try adjusting your steering rudder so that the bottom of the fin is angled tawards the back of the hull as far as it goes in this direction....
And for the parts above Steve sells the stuff on line in his shop.

Good Luck

[ChaKane]

Just remember that these boats were built for nicad batteries which are significently heavier and the placement of the battery hold points. Hence when you start to use Lipos you will need to fool around with their placement to get it right.

In relation to the bounce, this will start to sort out when you get the balance point with the Lipo batteries right. It is also a very good idea to change the trim tabs over to OSE ones which are a lot earier to adjust and manage.

As Steve wisely said, read though the forums here on the SV which will assist you no end. They are a great little boat, you just need a little time and patience, like most things, to get it just the way you like it.

[Fruity]

Brad,
the SV is a good platform, it just needs a couple of hours in the shed to make it really ready for the water.

1, remove the hardware from the back and apply a small amount of silicon to each part and the bolts, this ensures the transom is all sealed.

2, Give the water cooling system a complete workover, plenty of threads on here about it, but basically make sure no kinks in the lines, slightly drill the esc inlet and outlet fittings out to help flow. Check the rudder inlet, I modified mine, and i never have a problem with cooling, see photo attached.

3, have your trim tabs set at level with the boat to start with or about 1mm higher, if you can, buy the adjustable OSE ones, if not just take the time to set the original ones, you might have to remove them to bend them without damaging the boat.

4, the strut should be set at a neutral angle, so along the same line as the bottom of the hull, check with a ruler.

5, Along with the trim tabs the centre of gravity is very important fo this hull, it should balance on your fingers at approximatly 8 1/2 to 9 inches from the transom. this will see your batteries way forward, but belive me it makes a massive difference.

As you have said you taped the hatch, this is vital. A couple of hours of setting this up and you will love this little rocket, especially with the lipo's you are using.

As for props, I have the best performance from a X642, well worth the money, you will soon ahve a very reliable 35+ MPH little boat, but be warned, it wont be long and you will be looking at trying to go faster & faster & faster.

If you need any help, you can also send me a PM and | can send pics of my set-up.

Cheers...Tim.

[Fluid]

I'm running with maxamaps (2) 2s 4000mah which have enough balls which isn't my problem. .

Actually this is part of your problem, the boat was not designed for them. As stated above, you need to add weight. Put 8 ounces of lead directly under the motor or where needed to get the CG correct.

I'm having a hard time steering. Its like I need speed to keep the boat from cavasting but if I got to fast it spins around on its self.

You probably have way too much steering programmed in your radio. Reduce the rudder movement significantly - 3/8" or less each way measured at the back of the rudder. This is a common mistake beginners make.

After driving for 5 mins the motor is very warm. I'm surprised it was as warm as it was. I'm hoping not to kill the motor if I run back to back runs with 2 or 3 sets of batterys..

How "warm" is it? How warm is the ESC? If they are under 140F then all's fine. A lot depends on how you drive the model, if you have a lot of starts and stops that will heat the motor and ESC up rapidly. Keeping at a steady high speed is best. However, you cannot expect to run back-to-back packs without a cool down period in between - this is just the way it is with high performance boats.

Someone convince me this thing is worth the time tweaking or modding to make enjoyable fast rc bushless boat.

No one can do this for you. The SV27 is clearly very popular, it sold out its first production much faster than the manufacturer expected. Most everyone on this site who has/had one loved it, so for most it is clearly worth the effort to be able to have a reliable, fast, fun FE boat. If you aren't able to make the effort to fix the few well known flaws, then perhaps the BJ is for you. Just don't expect it to be any better than the SV out of the box.


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