Is extreme cavitation and violent bouncing normal on a stock BL SV?

[beetleman]

The ESC does have a low voltage cuttoff. It is set to stop at 60% discharge from the initial voltage of the battery. So if you put in a full peaked battery the cut off will stop at 60% of full discharge. The ESC checks the voltage when it gets armed and then calculates the cutoff from the initial voltage reading. And no it will not come back on untill the batteries are unplugged. I have had first hand experience with this.

I also had an issue getting the boat to get on plane. My problem turned out to be the batteries. I went with lipos and have had no such problems since.

Thanks Daveo.
However we are mixing three different issues here:
1. Lost Signal
2. Overheat
3. Low battery

My questions were regarding #1 and #2. #3 is a different issue which I'm glad you cleared out.

I asked what happens if radio signal is lost - is there a failsafe that shuts the motor and prevents the boat from running and crashing?

And a totally different scenario where the motor and/or ESC overheat and the thermal shut-down kicks in - shouldn't it come alive once it's cooled down like most ESCs? My boat stayed dead and I had to retreive it. The batteries had plenty of juice left, so it's not due to low battery power.

[Daveo]

Sorry, I read too much stuff and got cornfused. The esc will disarm if it losses signal so the motor will stop. As far as the thermal thing goes, I would not expect this ESC to rearm after it cools down. In my experience it doesn't rearm after anything!

[Steven Vaccaro]

If signal is lost it is supposed to shut down. But that is not always the case. The radio is probably the first thing I would think about upgrading in a sv. But radio loss is the case with ANY system. I have read of guys losing control of boats or cars with $40 radio systems or $300 radio systems. its an unfortunate part of playing with these items.

[Jeff Wohlt]

In the older days we called it WFO...should be easy to figure out. Wide Friggin Open is the cleaner way of saying it.

[Ctonez]

I am using 2 Venom 3300 NiMH batteries.

these are not very good batteries and I suspect they are the main culprit of your symptoms. Get some good NiMhs or LiPos and the boat will be transformed.

If you don't want to switch to LiPos, I have a bunch of good quality NiMh packs I'd be willing to sell for a good deal...PM me if interested.

[beetleman]

these are not very good batteries and I suspect they are the main culprit of your symptoms. Get some good NiMhs or LiPos and the boat will be transformed.

If you don't want to switch to LiPos, I have a bunch of good quality NiMh packs I'd be willing to sell for a good deal...PM me if interested.

I disagree. These may not be the best batteries available but they are good enough. I use them in other applications (such as a customized 14.4V Tamiya Twin Detonator and many other RC cars) and they perform considerably well.

[Ctonez]

I'm sure they work great in trucks and cars, but others have had similar issues to yours (with the SV using Venom 3300's) which were resolved by getting better NiMhs or switching over to LiPos...I'm just saying what I've read and experienced is that you'll get better punch and performance (and likely eliminate many of your symptoms) by switching to better packs. More capacity couldn't hurt either...
Still keep the venoms for your cars and other vehicles, they'll probably last longer if you don't use them in the SV.

I suspect the batteries were low enough to cause your initial shutdown...a little more than 5 minutes is about all your gonna get out of 3300mah in the SV.
If you are gonna stick with the Venoms, try peaking them right before you put 'em in the boat...get 'em nice and toasty warm, then let 'er rip. Forgive me if this is already what you're doing, but you'll really see the extra boost for the first 40 seconds or so if the batteries are well peaked before running.

cheers

[beetleman]

I'm sure they work great in trucks and cars, but others have had similar issues to yours (with the SV using Venom 3300's) which were resolved by getting better NiMhs or switching over to LiPos...I'm just saying what I've read and experienced is that you'll get better punch and performance (and likely eliminate many of your symptoms) by switching to better packs. More capacity couldn't hurt either...
Still keep the venoms for your cars and other vehicles, they'll probably last longer if you don't use them in the SV.

I suspect the batteries were low enough to cause your initial shutdown...a little more than 5 minutes is about all your gonna get out of 3300mah in the SV.
If you are gonna stick with the Venoms, try peaking them right before you put 'em in the boat...get 'em nice and toasty warm, then let 'er rip. Forgive me if this is already what you're doing, but you'll really see the extra boost for the first 40 seconds or so if the batteries are well peaked before running.

cheers

Thanks for your input. So which batteries do you recommend?

I have 1 Intellect 4200 World Edition stick pack, and 1 Yeah Racing Lipo 3200 20C. Obviously I can't use them as a pair. So for which should I get a second one? Will the SV wear out the Lipo quickly? Does the stock ESC have Lipo cutoff? What about the weight which is almost half of the Intellect stick?

Thanks again

[Ctonez]

Thanks for your input. So which batteries do you recommend?

I have 1 Intellect 4200 World Edition stick pack, and 1 Yeah Racing Lipo 3200 20C. Obviously I can't use them as a pair. So for which should I get a second one? Will the SV wear out the Lipo quickly? Does the stock ESC have Lipo cutoff? What about the weight which is almost half of the Intellect stick?

Thanks again

I'd suggest you go with the 4200's...for a couple reasons.
The lipos will be way faster, for sure, but 3200 mah is not much IME. The 4200's will give you longer runs, and will be more forgiving if abused or sucked dry (BTW - don't suck either of 'em dry if you can help it! ).
Plus, the 4200's are generally cheaper and are some killer Nimhs. However, the trade-off is in durability and boat speed. You'll get 2 or 3 times the cycles out of Lipos if you take good care of them, and the boat will be significantly faster.

Go with Lipos if you are equipped to take good care of them...like testing to see how much capacity is used after 2 min., 3 min., and so on so you know when to bring the boat in...or running an aftermarket LVC (the SV LVC is not set to save your Lipos from over discharge).
I don't use an LVC, but I heat race and rarely use more than 50% of my capacity in a heat, and I balance my packs every charge (thanks to my CellPro chargers).

Remember...making sure the Nimhs are nicely balanced and warmed will really help the performance.

...just for grins, check all your motor/ESC solder joints. ...seen a few loose ones from the factory.

[Rex R]

I'll add to the list, battery connectors. had two factory solder joints fail this season...2nd failure melted the connector(now I'm running lipos ). balance the boat a smidge over 8" from the transom, you'll be a lot happier.
rex