Newbie,Needs help with leak!

[rocket-ron]

I just got my SV27 today,and have spent all day,adjusting the trim tabs(cutting the holes ,into slots) so I can get them flush to the hull bottom.Checking for kinks in the water lines,changing out the radio equipment,putting foam in the antenna hole,and flotation in the cowling. While I had the trim tabs off,I used some silcone caulk,and sealed them (there wasn't anything from the factory. I went upstair and filled the bath tub and gave her the leak test. She FAILED miserably! It is leaking (fast) where the brass drive tube comes through the transom. Should I mix up some epoxy and fill/glue the opening shut,from the inside? Or should I unbolt and remove the (drive tube,I don't know the right term for it) and apply silcone,between it and the outside of the transom, ( like I did the trim tabs) then bolt it back up?Any Help will be greatly appreciated. Ron

[z400]

the tube should already be epoxied in.


Its just sitting in there?
Its not attached to the boat at all?

[rocket-ron]

Well,it's NOT.If it is, they didn't use enough epoxy to seal it (I don't see any).I figured it was sealed from the outside (like I had to do the trim tabs). I mean the water REALLY runs in. I didn't have the boat in the water for more than 5 seconds,and already had around 3 oz. of water in it. The leak was very easy to spot. I'm starting to think the term "RTR" means (ready to rebuild). There wasn't any sealer ANYWHERE on any of the hardware on the boat sofar! They need to sell this boat as a ARTR (almost ready to run) Kit. Apprently your gonna have to remove the hardware,cut slots in the trim tabs, to get them flush with the bottom of the hull,seal,and loctite (they did use thread locker) all the hardware. It would be just as easy to assemble it in the first place,and have it done right from the start. I'm sure I'm gonna like the boat after all the bugs are worked out of it. That didn't answer my question! Do you epoxy,the inside,or use silcone on the outside,between the hardware?Ron

[dogsteve]

I feel your pain.
I got my SuperVee almost two weeks ago.
I've done everything that I've read on this and other boards to fix my leaks and the darn thing still looks like southern Indiana.
I've already siliconed ALL the hardware on the transom inside and out.
I've pulled out the stock flex cable and installed the aftermarker cable from Offshore electronics.
I put enough cable grease in there to stop the leak in the Titantic.
My next step is to remove all the hardware on the inside of the hull and remove all the silicone I've already laid down and start over.
I can't have leaks because I'll be using Lipos. (eventually)

[rocket-ron]

dogsteve,I've got mine water tight (tub test only). Now the flood waters are out,and my lake (where I was planning on running it) is completley under water! What a mess! Ron

[z400]

yeah the stuffing tube deffinatly needs to be mounted and solid.


Sounds like youve got the problem sorted out

[rocket-ron]

Yeah,since everything is under water from the floods,I might as well completley tear the boat down,and go through it,from the bare hull up! There's not going to be any boating (RC) around here for a while!Like I mentioned in a post above,they should change the adds, from RTR to MBRTR (might be ready to run) Ron

[AlanN]

Well that's what you get from a boat put together by laborers who don't know any better. Once you do get the kinks out of the manufacturer the boat will run very nicely if setup properly.

#1 Replace the stock stuffing tube and slot the wood for the motor mount. This is becouse the factory does not align the motor to the stuffing tube very well.
They also leave out alot of teflon. Mine had apprx 2" in it. Get some for .150 cable from Steve.

#2 Do not make the tabs flush to the hull. Let them ride up about 3/32 to 1/8" from the bottom. this lets the hull settle down in the water. Also, replace them with the one's Steve here sells. The stock ones are made of such a high temper steel you will prob rib the transom off trying to bend.

#3 replace the leaky motor cooling with one of Steve's coolers. The work much better.

#4 Check the brass tubing in the strut. Mine was junk and replaced it with K&B brass tubing. Also replace the strut bearing with a Speedmaster one.

Set the strut at a slight down angle...1-2deg and let the tabs stay flat.

Move the cells (especially if lipo) about 3-4" farther forward than the stock setup.

Sorry but this hull is not RTR but after these tweaks will run well.

[rocket-ron]

Thanks,AlanN! That's the kind of info I need! This is my first RC boat,but I have Been into RC for 35yrs. planes/car/helis/ and now boats. Since the flood (I can't even see my the lake I was going to run in,it's under water) I'll have the time to get it setup right. I might as well order the after market parts,and set it up right from the start. Do I need to make any cooling mods,other than the new motor water jacket? Thanks,Ron

[AlanN]

No other cooling mods needed.
Sorry to hear and see the flooding your experiencing. I hope that your house and family are safe though.

[AlanN]

Forgot to mention that you would will prob have to adjust the tabs down...but for the first run.....leave them flat and adjust in increments untill the hull has a good flat attitude.

[ghostofpf1]

Seems to me a flood just increases your boating opportunities

Ghost

[rocket-ron]

Forgot to mention that you would will prob have to adjust the tabs down...but for the first run.....leave them flat and adjust in increments untill the hull has a good flat attitude.

Thanks,AlanN! We are up on high ground,but the town's water supply,has been interupted with a main break,and you guessed it,it out under the flood water. Ron ///// ghostofpf1, The water is really nasty,and they don't want you to be in or around it anymore than you have to! Ron

[motoxbob11]

Agree about using new tubing for the stuffing tube also I lined it with new teflon. My stock stuffing tube could be spun around with my fingers! Wasn't glued in at all. Make sure you pressure test the coling (mine leaked at the nipples that attach to the speed control. ) Align the new stuffing tube perfectly. Leave a bit of a gap between the drive dog and the strut. Tape the hatch down good and let her rip. Mine with lipo's and a stock prop runs 38 mph.

[rocket-ron]

motoxbob11,Thanks for the tip! I'm taking the ESC out today and checking the fittings. I also found my drive coupler(I think that's what it's called) is cracked. I guess it will be alright to run for a while (first few runs) it tightens up ok. Ron