SV27 Props

[ice329]

Could someone who really knows the props give some info or tips on them. I could give some limited info on a few but I have not compared enough to really give a good description.

If there is a experianced prop person here please put them all in one posting.


The stock prop - gives the boat good lift, turns good, decent speed, cavitates some on take off.

CF42 - turns good, not to much lift, slow with 6 cells, good coarse prop with 7 cells

CF45 - turns OK, more lift then 42, decent speed, good for 6 or 7 cells or LiPo's

CF48 - Tight turns are tough, more lift then the 45, good speed, dont run wet/watch all temps, quality 6 cell packs, a beast with LiPo's

[Steven Vaccaro]

Joey as you go up in diameter the prop torque with try to roll the boat.
To combat that use a smaller diameter prop with more pitch to it. Like the Octura x6 series. I like the x642 on my sv. Unfortunately there are no x6 series carbon props.

[Darin Jordan]

Unfortunately there are no x6 series carbon props.

Steve... Are you sure?? According to my prop charts.. aren't the Graupner "M-Series" props 1.6 pitch ratio props?? For example:

M42 - 1.6 Pitch Ratio, 1.654 diameter (42mm), 2.640 Pitch

I don't recall for certain, but I think these are thread-on 4mm props... but I was able to convert them to fit onto a standard 3/16" shaft using a stepped 3/16" reamer and a little patience in a drill press... Had to file the notch into them for the drive-dog as well, but they work pretty well...

[Steven Vaccaro]

There are props that can be modified. Graupner make s "s" series. But if someone was going to go though the trouble of converting a m4 thread to 3/16", they may as well balance the proper prop.

I have done the m4 to 3/16 conversion. It works well on lower power, small boats. But the drive dog slots take a beating with the larger boats and get deformed.

[Darin Jordan]

It works well on lower power, small boats. But the drive dog slots take a beating with the larger boats and get deformed.

I agree....... I'm done with Carbon props altogether... Had to finish one too many races with only one of the two blades still intact... Plus, they just sound wierd! :rolleyes:

[Steven Vaccaro]

I agree....... I'm done with Carbon props altogether... Had to finish one too many races with only one of the two blades still intact...

You have? Thats strange. I have been using them for many, many years without issue. I have a few podium finishes with them also.

[Darin Jordan]

You have? Thats strange. I have been using them for many, many years without issue. I have a few podium finishes with them also.

Yup... For example... had my DPI AD N2-Sport loose a blade last year (still won the heat... they do say that the "ideal" prop only has one blade! )... and we've already had one SV27 loose a prop blade this season...

But then, I'm pretty good at prepping my own metal props, so I prefer to just go that route... The Carbon ones are a great option for finding out which metal prop you may want, however... I still have a box full of them that I ordered from you last season that I use for getting things close... then I make a metal prop to replace it...

[Steven Vaccaro]

I run my Drifter M with a Lehner 2250 with a carbon prop and 24-32 cells and never lost a blade. Maybe I'm just lucky

[SJFE]

If I may add 2 cents. I have busted my stock SV prop on what I think was a stump. I then hit the same thing with a 42mm CF prop and didnt even have a nic.....I am not a fan of the stock SV prop. I have 3 and have waisted 2. I dont even know what I hit with the second. I put my 45mm back on..ran the same area for a while and no damage. I swear by cf props. I cant do metal props so they are not an afordable option. Well to be honest..I'm just not intrested learing yet.

[ice329]

What would be the differnce between a X642 and the M545. The pitches look similer but what would the props do differnt to the boat?

[hookedup]

converting the M series

... but I was able to convert them to fit onto a standard 3/16" shaft using a stepped 3/16" reamer and a little patience in a drill press... Had to file the notch into them for the drive-dog as well, but they work pretty well...

i just got an order from OSE with a few of the "m" series CF graupner props with the intention of converting them to go on my SV27 and an OM21, but after taking a good look at them, it seems like as much work as doing up a metal prop (which i am getting better at by the way)...so i guess they will just sit for now.

[Steven Vaccaro]

In smaller boats the conversion works great.

[Darin Jordan]

... it seems like as much work as doing up a metal prop (which i am getting better at by the way)...so i guess they will just sit for now.

No-No-No.... it's pretty easy...

I use a bench-mounted disc sander to sand down the pointed tip, then use that now flat surface to set the prop on while I carefully drill/ream out the threaded portion to fit a 3/16" shaft... Then use my Dremel with a cutting wheel on it to cut out the slot for the drive dog... DONE... Takes about 5-minutes each...

My metal props take upwards of an hour each to get balanced and sharpened, and that doesn't include any time polishing them, since I don't bother with that step at this point... (I'm of the opinion that it makes LITTLE performance difference, if any, and in fact may hurt in some cases....)

[ice329]

Here is a quick Vid of a stock SV27 with a CF48 useing a matched set of 6 cell BattlePack IB3600's.

Goose wasnt to happy. Boat is tough to turn as you can see but she boogies

http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/?action=view&current=100_0319.flv

[jrod703]

i ran my sv27 yesterday on a pair of the 6 cell NiCd sport packs i got from OSE some time back. with the 48mm CF prop the batteries got very hot very fast hopefully i didn't kill them - they power my old boat!

i'm going to try another run today on some bigger packs - 7 cell flat pack 3600s. i'm hoping this will turn out better. if not i'll have to back the prop down a size or two...

not to stray from the topic at hand, but does anyone have any advice on the max temp of battery packs before you start to see problems or failed cells? probably not an exact science but if i can get some rough estimates i won't hold you to them (shouldn't be too off topic as prop size influences amp draw right? if it is just tell me, i may be new, but i can learn :D )