Smoked 60A AQ ESC - Questions.....

[capnswanny]

Hey guys,

Questions for you about a AQ 60A ESC I smoked on Sunday...looking for something I may have missed before I run again, and potentially take out another ESC.
Thanks in advance for your helpful insight...I learn a lot from you!!!

Sorry this is a bit long...just didn't want to miss any details.

Narrative:
I swapped out the AQ1500 motor in my SV27 Saturday night for an AQ1800 I had picked up on the forum here, but I had not yet used. I tested the setup on the bench to make sure the motor was wired correctly and no problems.
Sunday afternoon I went out to the lake to test it out. AQ60ESC (newer version), MR 200/DX2.0, (2) 2S Zippy 5800. I plugged the batteries in, armed the ESC, and tested the servo. I put on the hatch cover and taped up for a windy run. Before I launched I realized I hadn't run the motor to make sure I had good rotation so I gave it some throttle and the prop just jittered (COG'd) I let off the throttle and eased into it again...same thing, this time followed by a healthy POP!.....2-3 seconds.....POP#2!!!!!

I let the boat sit on the tailgate of my truck, smoke pushing it's way around the tape for about a minute while I contemplated throwing the whole works into the lake. Well, with no more popping or signs of a hull melting fire, I donned gloves and goggles and started cautiously removing tape to find the ESC had been the cause of the POP and had gotten REALLY hot, the red battery wire into the ESC had liberated itself (thankfully) and it appeared that the goo and magic smoke was from the motor wire end, not the CAP end.

Here's where I am:
In the aftermath of the explosion I pulled the motor and removed the end bell. I saw no signs of shorting internally nor of the input wires. I added extra heat shrink to each of the 3 input wires as far down as i could go, followed by a heavy shrink wrap around all three and reasembled. I installed new batteries and my old AQ 45A ESC and applied power (with the ESC sitting in an old 49 Ford hubcap). Everything worked fine, ESC good, motor spun over fine at WOT for a good 5 count. My orignal batteries were good and took a charge no problem. I see no chafed wires, loose or missing heat shrink, etc...

Questions (if I haven't put you to sleep yet:)
- Anything else I should look at?
- Will the older style AQ 45A ESC supply the 1800kv motor fine on 42/55 prop?
- Any good ideas for removing the stank from this hull??? :)
We have plenty of blown electronics where I work, but I really never trouble myself with the stink. This boat on the other hand almost needs to sit outside for a while WHEW! Any make boat tree air fresheners?

Again, thanks for any advice you have.
Corey

Here's a pic of my current layout:
SV27-1_After.jpg

[bob_t]

Just for comparison purposes, the PB MG29 V1 had a 45A esc and a 1500kv motor. The PB Mystic has the same hull, basically the same hardware, but PB went to their 60A esc with the 1800kv motor which is stock in the Mystic. I ran my stock 1500kv MG29 with the PB SS prop and had no (heat) issues. Then I tried a Grim 42/55 and it got hot ... too much prop for the 45A esc, I presume. I have not had a chance to run the Mystic with the Grim 42/55 prop yet. I bought (and balanced) an M445 that I was going to use on my MG29, but, based on my run with the Grim 42/55, I didn't try that prop and bought an M440 to try on my MG29. I'm going to try the M445 on my new Revolt in the spring, after the ice melts off the pond. "Everybody" says that is a good prop for the stock revolt, which comes with a Grim 42/55 installed, and a 60A esc. Have not heard any smoke problems with that stock setup on 4s, or just switching to the M445. I know its not apples to apples comparison with your boat, but I think the 45A esc combined with that motor and prop might generate too much heat, imo.

[siberianhusky]

Should have worked no problem, especially since you never actually ran the boat, it popped before you launched. Could have just been the esc's time to go. Any heat damage is cumulative.
I run more prop than that on both of my AQ boats, one with an 1800kv motor one with a 1500kv. No heat issues with either. The SV has the stock 45 amp esc, the other has been run on a number of esc from the 60 up to 120 amps, usually the 60. Always 4s setups.
The 45 amp esc was not happy when I tried a Castle 1512 motor with a bigger prop, LOL my first summer, had no idea what I was doing! Still didn't blow! But was HOT!
A buddy runs the same prop as you on his SV with a UL-1 motor (2030kv) Runs cool and fast!
It sucks but it sounds like the esc may have been on the way out for some reason or other anyway, epecially if it went with no load.

[capnswanny]

Should have worked no problem, especially since you never actually ran the boat, it popped before you launched. Could have just been the esc's time to go. Any heat damage is cumulative.
I run more prop than that on both of my AQ boats, one with an 1800kv motor one with a 1500kv. No heat issues with either. The SV has the stock 45 amp esc, the other has been run on a number of esc from the 60 up to 120 amps, usually the 60. Always 4s setups.
The 45 amp esc was not happy when I tried a Castle 1512 motor with a bigger prop, LOL my first summer, had no idea what I was doing! Still didn't blow! But was HOT!
A buddy runs the same prop as you on his SV with a UL-1 motor (2030kv) Runs cool and fast!
It sucks but it sounds like the esc may have been on the way out for some reason or other anyway, epecially if it went with no load.

Thanks, I'll give the 45A ESC a shot and see what happens....not much to lose.
Now of I could get the stink out of this thing enough to put it back in my hobby room.
I think I'll pull all the electronics tonight and take a scrub brush and heavy detergent to her in the deep sink.

[longballlumber]

Did you buy the 60amp ESC used or something? That should have powered the hull/motor/prop combo no problem.

Later,
Mike

[capnswanny]

No, the ESC was originally new/unused here on OSE.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post456169
I had run it a few times already with the 1500Kv motor in this boat and it worked fine.
I couldn't see a reason for the cogging/explosion so I pulled the motor apart as it was the newest piece to the puzzle.
Motor was used but not very...got it off the forum also:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post452790

Thanks,
Corey

[stadiumyamaha]

As far as the funk goes, what I do is take everything out of the inside of the hull and scrub it repeatedly with simple green. You'll never get it all out but in time the smell will be diminished.

[Fluid]

Forget the prop, it never appied a load to the system and makes no difference here. I run that exact system in my MC and it works brilliantly. The OP describes cogging, usually (not always) caused by a poor connection on one of the motor leads. Too much cogging will take out an ESC so this is my first guess as to the reason for failure. A poorly soldered connector is the usual cause - re-solder all the connectorso n the motor side. The motor could have an internal short, but that usually means a red-hot motor. Mass-produced ESCs will normally have a few bad units in each lot, so that is a possibility too. Using a sacrificial ESC will only tell if the motor is bad, the AQ60 will work fine properly installed.

Denatured alcohol (from the drugstore) will take out most of the smell. Use it liberally with cloth or paper towels, it may take several attempts.



.

[stadiumyamaha]

I also would recommend denatured alcohol.
Here's my impulse before and afterImageUploadedByTapatalk1357750504.838145.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1357750513.971413.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1357750528.321817.jpg

[oscarel]

Goof off or vinegar will help remove the stains and smell.

[photohoward1]

Nobody mentioned it cold be a bad Motor or Solder joint. If it cogged it may have been not seeing all 3 phases or maybe when he pushed the shrink down something happened to the Motor wires. I bet if he try the other esc the same thing might happen.

[oscarel]

Jay mentioned solder and motor in post #8. Also OP said he tried motor on another ESC and it worked fine in post #1.

[capnswanny]

Thanks all, I'll pull back the heat shrink tonight on the motor conenctors to check for bad solder joints.

[capnswanny]

[QUOTE=stadiumyamaha;478002]I also would recommend denatured alcohol.
Here's my impulse before and afterQUOTE]

Yikes!...I can't complain, my char was very minimal in comparison.
I took to it first with alcohol, then Greased Lightnening, then Acetone. I was able to remove virtually all visible evidence of the burn, I'm glad I mounted the ESC on the CF mount raised off the hull, it really reduced the damage, and the char on the CF chipped off with a screwdriver. The smell on the other hand is still pretty strong, the wife would kill me if I brought that into the house :)

I totally forgot about using vinegar for the stank....it's a green boat, wouldn't be out of character to smell like a pickle

[capnswanny]

Thanks Fluid, one of the many lessons I take away from this experience is to ease into it when testing throttle and not try again if it cogs until after I've double checked all my connections.

Agree with the prop concerning this failure. I was just wondering if my smaller 45A AQ ESC would work with the AQ 1800Kv motor and 42/55 prop on this boat as a replacement for the 60A ESC...without overheating. I'm going to give it a shot and keep an eye on the temps.

When I check the motor connctors I WILL reflow the solder!
I think this is the one motor I have where I didn't have to change the motor connectors, so who knows what I'll find under the heat shrink...another lesson learned :)

Thanks!
Corey

Forget the prop, it never appied a load to the system and makes no difference here. I run that exact system in my MC and it works brilliantly. The OP describes cogging, usually (not always) caused by a poor connection on one of the motor leads. Too much cogging will take out an ESC so this is my first guess as to the reason for failure. A poorly soldered connector is the usual cause - re-solder all the connectorso n the motor side. The motor could have an internal short, but that usually means a red-hot motor. Mass-produced ESCs will normally have a few bad units in each lot, so that is a possibility too. Using a sacrificial ESC will only tell if the motor is bad, the AQ60 will work fine properly installed.

Denatured alcohol (from the drugstore) will take out most of the smell. Use it liberally with cloth or paper towels, it may take several attempts.



.