Supervee27 planing problems.

[vinny waite]

I am new to this forum and am sorry if this question has been asked before.

I have a supervee27 but cannot get the boat to plane.

I have tried two sets of battery packs these being Megavolt 4100 and Venom 4200.

Both the motor and ESC have been changed.

The ESC powers up correctly as advised in the manual.

I believe that the prop is not spinning fast enough. I cannot find any data on the RPM of the motor at full throttle. I have tach'od my motor directly on the output shaft at between 20,000 and 21,000 rpm.

I would be gratful for any information.

[Rex R]

that sounds about right...question is what the battery voltage is doing under load. the sv draws about 40 amps and, some batteries just are not up to the task. have you tried moving the packs forward about 2"?

[calcagno45]

...question is what the battery voltage is doing under load. the sv draws about 40 amps and, some batteries just are not up to the task.

Second that notion. Good NiMh or LiPo packs are key to successful and full power running. Buy quality packs with IB cells and you should have no problems.

[Doby]

Your batteries are the most likley reason.
I had some Venoms and it was a struggle to get on plane. I never heard of Megavolt. They are probably cheap cells as well.

[ozboater]

with good GP cells mine has no problems... as others have said, prolly ya batts...

good luck with it... they are so much fun when they are running well...

[kssi]

had the same problem out of the box , all i did was fix the the angle of the prop.

[vinny waite]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I believed the boat was ready to run straight from the box, and have been trying for five months to get it to plane. Hopefully now I have found this forum with expert advice I may finally get the boat to run.

I will try your suggestions over the weekend, subject to good weather conditions here in the UK.

Has anyone got information on the max RPM of the motor?

[smm_cbf]

i ran venom 3000 packs in my sv last year before i sold it, and it had no problems getting onto plane. i would try moving them up forward (already stated) but i don't think it would be the venoms if they are working right.....all cells work, and so on. how old are the batts?

[Rex R]

er, the thought occured to me that, not everyone has had the benefit of an experienced racer looking over their shoulder and the SV manual doesn't cover this very well... how much gap between drive dog and strut are you leaving? it should be about 1/8-5/32". how does one know if the're leaving enough gap? pull the shaft, clean the face of the strut & strut bushing, and use a marker (sharpie works well) to put a mark where the drive dog might rub, put the shaft back in(lubed) and run the boat. if the mark has been worn off, you didn't leave a big enough gap.

[Mich. Maniac]

er, the thought occured to me that, not everyone has had the benefit of an experienced racer looking over their shoulder and the SV manual doesn't cover this very well... how much gap between drive dog and strut are you leaving? it should be about 1/8-5/32".

Wow,, I trust you Rex, but that seems like a large gap. Even with thrust bearing? I honestly dont run a gap much at all. Spose I should start.

[Rex R]

well the size gap needed will vary somewhat...depends on the size of the cable & the torque load on the cable. I've been using 0.13" on the mean machine w/o probs, but atm I don't know if that will still be the case when I prop up(still running the k-40)

[vinny waite]

I have been running with the drive dog pushed up tight to the strut bushing.

[Rex R]

ah that is likely the problem. may I suggest you try a run with the drive dog about an 1/8" away from the strut bushing and see if the boat runs better.

[vinny waite]

Thanks Rex

As you can probably tell I am newcomer to the world of FE boating.

When lubing the drive cable do you lube the flex section and the shaft through the bushing or is a light engineering oil better in the bushing area?

[Rex R]

think most folks a)get a paper towel handy 1st, then smear their particular choice of lube* on the flex starting about 0.5" back from the motor end. usually by the time you get to the stub shaft you'll have enough on your fingers to put a lite coat on it(it will get more in the bushing when you slide the cable in ). wipe the excess off the pinkies, adjust the gap and tighten the coupler.
* lite oil wont stay put worth a hoot! you would be relubing every 2 minutes, prather cable grease, grimracer speed lube, 'STP oil treatment(tm)', chainsaw bar oil+multipurp grease... well you prolly get the idea :)