SV 27 motor pin

**wizard122** · 05-21-2010, 08:52 AM

Motor Mount

The motor that Kintec sells is way better than stock no nuts to deal with and you can line things up much better. Are you using a thrust bearing between the motor and coupler that will help eliminate vibration. try a drop of CA that may hold it in place

Attached Files

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**soliverg** · 05-21-2010, 10:31 AM

I had the same problem, even after warrenty repair. ended up drilling a new hole in the case and rotating it to fit with a new pin made from a thick needle.
Secured the whole thing with some locktite. No movement since and is as good as new.
Cheers

**Chevycruizer** · 05-22-2010, 06:38 AM

Pin fell out again

Ya, I will have to do something. I checked it this afternoon right before my first run of the day and it was secure. Well about 4 minutes into that run it lost power and started to make a hell of a noise. I nursed it back to shore and the pin is gone again.

How long of a warranty period does this thing have. I bought this new from Tower and only have run it 5 times. Thats 5 runs (batterys) not 5 times out with multiple batterys. Only thing is it sat here unused for over 3 months.

1st time ran it right out of the box and got 1 strait away and got it stuck in weeds. Got it back onshore and it was really flooded on the inside. So I spent a little time water proofing the stuff tube area with thinned epoxy.

2nd time well it was way too windy and choppy but I just had to run it. Ya, it flipped on the 2nd lap, but everything was still set up the way it came out of the box. Had water on the inside but figured it was from the antenna tube - it took about 30 minutes to drift to shore upside down. So now I read several posts here and set everything up the right way.

3rd time it was much faster but still had some bounce so I adjusted the trim tabs and she settled down real good and ran for a good 5 minutes then the motor pin came out. Had water inside so now I took everything off the transome and sealed it with RTV. Just as a hint I used the flowable windshield sealer stuff. It is real thin and flattens out unlike regular thick RTV. The finished product looks much better than big globs of silicone.

4th time I had no problems other than pissing off a couple of fishermen. There is just one small cove where it was flat that day and I guess they didnt want me there (They were yelling at me in Korean. I can only speak very basic words and phrases). I told them I would be gone in 5 minutes but they didnt want to wait.

5th time (today) it was really raining but the water was glass. Comments above in the 1st para. It was bone dry on the inside today so the silicone and epoxy worked to seal it up.

I am ready to click the pay now button on a bunch of stuff from either here or Kinetic. The only question I have is on a new water jacket. I currently have the stock motor but I also have a Turnigy B36-56-04 2600kv Inrunner in the mail and the same thing but 1800kv on back order. Not sure wat jacket to use or if they take the same one.

Thanks,

John

**soliverg** · 05-22-2010, 10:52 AM

Chevycruizer checked out this one KD36-74-09XL 1900kv Brushless Inrunner also on hobbyking ? Its a bit longer but may be ultimately better. Ive ran Ferago 8xl and 9xl in my sv 27 and looking at this as a cheap alternative. I killed mine using 6s and will only run 4s in my sv from now. You will have to upgrade the esc to run the xl motors though as they draw 75A + but it flies. I also have all the upgrades from kinetic and ose but havnt used the trim tab water pickup as I use a propwash pickup, the thought being that the propwash is in the water more and flowing all the time when the boat is moving and or the prop is turning.

If I had the chance again I would stay with the stock sv27motor/esc and move to lipo straight away and add a liposhield. The stock motor is very tourqey and can swing good size props. If you can get warrenty on your motor see if they will swap it to the new standard one thats just come out.

Use a thrust bearing and spacer to protect your motors bearings. Upgrade the hatch latch, always tape the hatch and have fun. The left hand turn finn is also good for sport running. Even the stock prop is good with more juce from the lipos.

By the way the manufacturers warrenty is 12 months.

and just make sure the prop is sharp , that will take care of the fisherman.

**Chevycruizer** · 05-22-2010, 08:11 PM

I wanted to run lipos right away but already had the NiMh on hand from some cars. I have a couple sets coming from HC (Turnigy 5000mAh 2S 40C Lipo Pack) and a LVC and ESC but it takes forever for stuff to reach an APO address.

The thrust bearing and hatch latch are in my cart along with almost everything else made for this boat. Where did you pick up your prop wash water pick up, or did you make one?

I must have missed that motor when I was cruizing the site. The specs do look good for this boat.

I will definately try and contact Aquacraft for a warranty return on this motor. But that kinda screws me becasue I dont have the HC motor on hand and I dont want to mess with modifying the stock motor because then they may not cover it under warranty. I think that I will just throw some glue on the pin and try again while I wait for the news from Aquacraft.

Ya, Im not stressing those fishermen.

**mdunham** · 05-22-2010, 10:45 PM

I have had the same problem.. i have only less then a dozen runs on my sv and have had the same issue..i have so far just tried to use "loctite" on the bolts holding the motor to the mount but i am not sure if that is going to be the final solution or not..I am going to keep my on this thread for insight as well as share my results!!

**soliverg** · 05-23-2010, 04:47 AM

Chevycruzer and mdunham, also found this at hobyking as well, should fit the existing hardware and interesting concept
A36-56 Brushless Hybrid Inrunner/Outrunner 2000kv

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5421&Product_Name=A36-56_Brushless_Hybrid_Inrunner/Outrunner_2000kv

Yes, dont mess with the motor, just send it back for warenty repair. The endbell coming loose with the pin is a common complaint. My motors front bearings slipped out and I thought that was the end of it , sent it back for warrenty, they fixed it, but the pin kept comming out. Second run the endbell came out and the pin went missing in the tangled mess of wires. I simply used a thick needle shaft section as thats all I had and drilled another hole through the can as it had ripped out the side. fitted back together with some locktite and deuralack (anticorrosive barrier) and never had a problem since.

I made the propwash pickup and will post pics later today.

**Chevycruizer** · 05-25-2010, 06:30 AM

I give up

So I spent all day Sunday pulling the motor out and temp repairing the motor pin issue. I noticed there was some glue residue on the end caps of the motor so I cleaned all of the old glue off and then mixed up some fresh epoxy. I reinstalled the pins and put a little glue on there also. I reasemmbled everything and for extra measure I put some zip ties over the pins so they could not work there way out. Let it dry overnight and then worked all day today and on the way home stopped at the pond and the motor only worked properly for 3 minutes then I heard that terrible grinding noise. I nursed it back to shore and this time the pin fell inside of the motor and the can was completely off of the bottom end cap.

I downloaded, printed, and filled out the warrantly paperwork and will send this off in the morning. It should definately still be under warranty, it is only 4 months old (3 of which it sat in the box). How does the return shipping cost work? I think it would really stink if I have to pay postage both ways.

Thanks,

John

**ggcrna** · 05-25-2010, 08:43 PM

Make sure you grease your flex shaft, especially the part that runs inside the strut. I ran my boat 7 times or so before the black endcap came off. My screws were loose also. But my issue was no cooling water flowing, so this over heated the motor & made the glue fail on the endcap. I returned my motor under warranty & had a new back in about 10 days.

**wizard122** · 05-25-2010, 09:09 PM

I found a loose pin on my sons new boat so I called Aquacraft and they are sending me a new motor the end bell don't come off yet so I put some JB on the pins and I'm going to still run it this motor kicks ass ran 38.6 mph with stock 3 blade prop

**Chevycruizer** · 05-25-2010, 09:29 PM

Originally posted by wizard122

I found a loose pin on my sons new boat so I called Aquacraft and they are sending me a new motor the end bell don't come off yet so I put some JB on the pins and I'm going to still run it this motor kicks ass ran 38.6 mph with stock 3 blade prop

Wizzard,

Can you tell me how you contacted Aquacraft? I only see on there webpage that Hobby Service handles the warranty.

[email protected],

Ya, the flex shaft has been re-greased after each day of use. My mounting screws have never came loose. I have really kept my eye on the water outlet and I have great flow out of the boat after a right hand turn (like 8 inches worth). It is shorter on a strait run but it still has good flow. I have not turned left much at all because I have not added the optional turn fin yet. I did use a polishing pointy dremel tip and I deburred the water entry point on the rudder before I even put the boat in the water.

Thanks,

John

**mdunham** · 05-26-2010, 01:00 PM

motor replacement

Chevycruiser:
As i mentioned in a previous post, i was having the same issue with my motor..i emailed Aquacraft and within a few hours they responded to say they will send me a new motor

**Ctonez** · 05-26-2010, 02:59 PM

I have superglued loose endbells on NEUs with good results. Should work fine with the AC motor too.

**Chevycruizer** · 05-26-2010, 05:45 PM

Bad news

I got a chance to call this morning and it only had a 90 day warranty. He said I can send it in with a letter and they will make a determination but nothing will happen right now.

Thanks,
John