Relocating black water proof box and goods

[brad65ford]

Wondering if anybody has removed the stock black box (esc/rudder servo/reciever) and relocated stuff else were so you can put one 4s pack in its place. Sorry this is a vague question, but I'm thinking about doing this and running a single 4s 2500mah size battery instead of lugging around 2 large 4000mah packs. Also I can make more room for a flood chamber. Just wanted to hear you guys thoughts.

[BakedMopar]

Sorry this is a vague question, but I'm thinking about doing this and running a single 4s 2500mah size battery instead of lugging around 2 large 4000mah packs.

You will puff that 2500 pack unless you run two of them parallel. And yes many have removed the black box. Just replace with a peice of wood.

[brad65ford]

I need two of those batterys than huh, its do able since I have 8 off these batterys. Well I geuss I can run them in parrellal right? that would make 4s 5000mah.

[Ctonez]

I removed the radio box in one of mine, but still run 2 2S packs on either side. The Servo will need to be relocated, and that would likely limit how much you can move the pack to adjust CG. One 4S pack behind the motor will have the weight way too far back.

I also believe you risk that pack if that's all you put in it. Run time would likely be limited to a minute or 2.
I've run the boat with 2 4S packs for an offshore event...I won't do it again. 2 2S packs are optimal for the SV.

[brad65ford]

I totally understand about the weight/location of th batterys not in the right location but I don't understand why 2 4s 2500mah would be a problem on the batterys since they would equal the same as having 2 2s 5000mah. One would be a series and one would be in parrallel?

[m4a1usr]

I totally understand about the weight/location of th batterys not in the right location but I don't understand why 2 4s 2500mah would be a problem on the batterys since they would equal the same as having 2 2s 5000mah. One would be a series and one would be in parrallel?

Running two 4S 2500 packs in parallel would be 4S 5000mah. So if your question is does it equal two 2S 5000 packs in series the answer is yes.

John

[Ctonez]

yeah, what he said. I suppose, if weight and dimensions are equalish, go ahead. I was thinking bigger packs...
I ran with 2 4S 5000mah packs because I was running for several minutes...I don't remember how long the race was. The weight was just too much for that setup in my case, but you should be fine.

[brad65ford]

Running two 4S 2500 packs in parallel would be 4S 5000mah. So if your question is does it equal two 2S 5000 packs in series the answer is yes.

John

That's what I thought. Cool.

[GIESDOG]

The black box is there for security, it is "waterproof" since the rest of the boat is not. Spend some time waterproofing the hull. I put small bead of silicone around perimiter of all the fins, trim tabs, rudder, and drive mounts, along with water exit in case it flips, also lock tite on the screws. Black box is gone(well not totally I let my 2 year old son play with it since he loves the boat and that is the only part I am willing to let him play with/ destroy. Then make sure to tape the hatch down. Then it is up to you haw you want to rearrange the inerds. I mounted the servo on its side to open up the middle of the boat so I could lay the esc down on my new tray. I'll post pics as soon as I can.

[GIESDOG]

maybe I should clarify, I removed all the mounting hardware and placed a small bead around the perimeter then reattached so the silicone would form a barrier inbetween the transom and the mount. also put a little under the head of the screws and loctite them.

[Ctonez]

uh yeah, the hull should be water-proofed whether you remove the box or not...
there are several threads on getting your SV to run fast and last long. Good reading if this is your first boat.
I wasn't assuming you were new to boats/SV27, but here's a few that are good if you are getting started:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=82
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=12363

cheers,
-Corey

[badag98]

Below is a piece I got from Jan @ Kintec and it was pretty much dead on:

The SV27 is a great boat and will bring you many hours of enjoyment. Its problem is there are many small things that should be fixed before you even put the boat in the water. If you do these things you will be much happier and have less problems in the long run.

The boat will leak.
To avoid this remove all the hardware from the transom and apply silicone to the back of all items and around the screw holes in the boat.

The boat will crack at the seams.
The boat is made from 2 pieces, a top half and a bottom half. You might be able to see the seam on the inside. The seam is close to where the water exit is about mid point on the sides. This boat is so fast that when you flip it the impact can cause the hull and paint to crack.
To avoid this add a few layers of fiberglass along the sides. Cut strips about 2” wide and at least 14” long. Add at least 2 layers, I use 4 layers. Remove the exit nozzle and glass over the whole. You can re drill the hole when dry no problem. Use the smallest drill you can and still get the nozzle back in.

The Cowl or Hatch will not float.
Glue a piece of foam or pool noodle to the underside of the hatch. A pool noodle fits perfect and only needs to be ½ inch thick. ShoeGoo glue works great.

Battery Trays
The battery trays are out of location and should be removed. Add a full length of strong adhesive Velcro to both the boat and your batteries. To determine the location of your batteries or lipos move them back and forth till the boat will balance approximately 8 ¾ inches from the transom.

Wood
The wood is not treated. I recommend Z-Poxy to treat and waterproof all the wood inside. It is also great for laying the fiberglass on the sides. I put a few coats on all the wood and on the whole interior which makes the boat much stronger. Remove the radio box and motor mount before doing this.

Stuffing tube
The brass stuffing tube will come loose sooner or later. Make sure the motor is aligned properly to the stuffing tube. The torque of the motor has a tendency to make the tube try to rotate thus creating drag which makes the motor hot and run slower. I always remove the radio box, check alignment, and then pour a large amount of Z-Poxy over the rear of the tube where it exits the transom. Point the front of the boat up and pour enough in to cover the tube completely. The boat always leaks there so this will solve 2 things. Makes the tube leak proof and holds it in place so it will not rotate.

Antenna
The antenna hole in the cowl or hatch will vary in size but always allows water to get in when the boat is upside down. Find some kind of tubing that fits the hole snug but still allows you to get the antenna tube through about an inch.
A lot of people like to relocate the tube to the transom so they don’t have to fool with it every time you open the boat.

Radio
A good idea to put the radio inside a balloon till you get the boat sealed from leaking. Do not store the radio inside the balloon it will hold moisture and can hurt the radio.

Cowl or Hatch
Always, always tape your cowl hatch down before running. Electrical tape works well.


Install a LVC if using Lipos!!

[Diesel6401]

Removing the box is way better, I got my replacment wood from kintec as well. Im sick of buying wood from home depot so I just bought it from Jan, but you could easily make it if you wanted to. Dump the stock radio for a Tactic 2.4ghz and seal the antenna hole, also get the upgraded cowl latch and foam for $8.50 from Kintec as well. Using just the new hatch latch and foam and without taping my hatch I flipped my boat and was upside down for about 5ms. I thought it would be flooded, but their was only a few drops of water inside. It's not the best to run without taping, but I have several times.

[brad65ford]

Removing the box is way better, I got my replacment wood from kintec as well. Im sick of buying wood from home depot so I just bought it from Jan, but you could easily make it if you wanted to. Dump the stock radio for a Tactic 2.4ghz and seal the antenna hole, also get the upgraded cowl latch and foam for $8.50 from Kintec as well. Using just the new hatch latch and foam and without taping my hatch I flipped my boat and was upside down for about 5ms. I thought it would be flooded, but their was only a few drops of water inside. It's not the best to run without taping, but I have several times.

How the hell do you have your batterys so far back, I got mine like 6" up than yours

[Diesel6401]

How the hell do you have your batterys so far back, I got mine like 6" up than yours

My battery trays are gone and I place the front of my lipo right inline or a little bit forward of the motor mount closer to the motor. I need the weight more forward then stock setup to keep the nose down.