What would be the best ESC setting for MambaMonster2/2400kv motor in Rio ep?

[boilo56]

Hi everyone, i'm new here, and to the rc boat world. I bought a Rio ep, and put the setup mentionned above. Is there someway to program this ESC for smooth start? I will be running 2s and 3s, maybe i'll try 4s. I have the stock prop on it. My goal is to get this ESC running as smooth as the traxxas VXL-3S.

Thank you for the help!

P.S. Any good tip on the boat would be very welcome!

[boilo56]

Really, nothing???

[tlandauer]

In this boat the primary concern is space. In the old days ( well, not long ago) I would have recommended the Seaking 120A ESC v2. But they don't make them any more and I am not familiar with the new ones ( V3). To give you an idea of the size and shape, this one in the middle of the page is what I would have recommended: ( Hobbywing /Seaking 90A ESC) make sure you are looking at the V2, not the V3:

http://kintecracing.com/ESC_s.html

The V2 90 and 120 were identically sized.
Seaking has a good reputation and this 90 A ESC may work, however, I would prefer to point you to something with 120 A rating so you have more head room as well as the possibility of using it in the future for another boat. I also like the fact that it will work from 2s -6s , unlike the Aqua Craft ESC which will only work on 4s. Your motor , as you said, would like to have 2s to 3s, in reality, 3s may be more fun but you would not be able to balance the boat if only one side has a 3s unless you put somwthing on the other side.
I have converted this and my motor is only rated ay 1500kv, ( Proboat motor), I run 4s1p, batteries mounted on either side of motor( 2x2s on each side) , using a 42mm prop. Runs great, I do know however, if you run higher kv, the combination of the RPM and the increased torque will roll the boat and it is not much fun then. Hence I agree with you the 2s or 3s idea.
I am sorry to say that I have no other experience other than the aforementioned ESC. Swordfish also makes a 120A ESC with similar dimension but I do not have first hand experience.

[tlandauer]

I think I just wasted my time and your time, I see you already have an ESC, sorry, I know nothing about this ESC. If you want, I can delete my response.

[tlandauer]

Yup, I didn't read the post carefully, anyway, this is how mine looks today, I retained all original components, my brushed ESC is still inside /under the radio box, I managed to use the stick motor mount as well. I can revert back to stock any time i want. I did make a sheet metal mount over the motor for the ESC to rest, it is blocked and can't be seen. I have an upgraded cable as i find the stock cable to be a rough product. DSCN1986_1474.jpg

[boilo56]

Thank you tlandauer, i did manage to ajust some function of the setup. i did remove the radio box to gain some space for the batteries. This way i can put the batteries the way i need. I would like to know what cable did you used for upgrade? i ordered some from kintecracing, but it seems to be the stock ones. I would really need a better flexcable, as i snap them very often( 1 every 3 or 4 runs)

Thank you!

[tlandauer]

I will have to measure it for you. I remember the cable was a .130 cable, keep in mind that the brass tube sticking out of the transom is your bushing and stinger, the stock shaft is a hair thicker than the shaft that came with my cable, so there was a bit of free play, not too much to cause concern though. But the overall quality is so much better on these after market OSE cables. Right now I don't remember the dia. of the shaft, will look into it this evening when I have a chance.

[tlandauer]

This is what I ordered:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1085
The prop I used is a Grupner K42 (442) and I have a brass sleve adaptor to make it go over the1/8 prop shaft. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1035

You can also use this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1087 with this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1030
I don't know why i didn't think of that.
This is a better cable and shaft assembly than the stock one but please note that there is some free play between the brass tube and the cable shaft. I grease it really well and so far had no problem. You need to use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut the cable to your length. Wear safety goggles and take all necessary precautions!

[tlandauer]

I should say that my stock cable and shaft was so terrible, the shaft was not rounded! Someone at the factory hand filed some spots on the shaft, you can see it in plain day light. I had to put the shaft in a drill and use fine grit sand paper to go over it. But before it went bad, I up graded to this one.

[boilo56]

Wow, thank you for all those links and tips! Will i need a new stuffing tube to go with the cable you linked? Your helping me alot! Thanks again!

[kfxguy]

i have a mamba monster 2 in one of my boats....i'm not sure what settings you are referring to? mine works just fine with no special settings......

[boilo56]

i have a mamba monster 2 in one of my boats....i'm not sure what settings you are referring to? mine works just fine with no special settings......

I'm refering to the power output, punch control and start power. Like i said, the traxxas VXL-3S runs almost as smooth as a brushed system. I am trying to get a very smooth acceleration from a dead start.

[tlandauer]

Wow, thank you for all those links and tips! Will i need a new stuffing tube to go with the cable you linked? Your helping me alot! Thanks again!

You are welcome! No, I didn't change the stuffing tube, I wanted minimal alteration. The shaft/cable should worrk fine.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2

[boilo56]

I am thinking of going single rudder. Should i only remove the right side rudder and leave the left one in place? Or should i put the left one in the center? And also, if i go with a single centered rudder setup, how far back from the prop should i put the rudder?

Thanks!

[tlandauer]

I am thinking of going single rudder. Should i only remove the right side rudder and leave the left one in place? Or should i put the left one in the center? And also, if i go with a single centered rudder setup, how far back from the prop should i put the rudder?

Thanks!

The idea to have an off-set rudder is to get out of the way of the prop wash. if I were to make an off-set rudder, I would use the starboard side as the location. ( Since you turn right typically )
On this boat I see the linkage comes out on the port side. I don't think that there is any rules of how far behind the prop for an in-line rudder, the rule for off-set rudder is to have the leading edge of the rudder at about the drive dog length when view from the side. For in-line I have seen very short distance to a distance about an inch or so, but I have no experience with in-line rudder myself except for the KOS P1 Mono which has an extremely close distance and I can tell you I don't like it. That particular set up being so close behind the prop does affect the straight line performance of the boat, many factors and i suspect a weak servo and thin linkage being two of them.
Just my $.02