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You mentioned " if I were to make a motor mount...", so I guess you have the means of fibricating a mount. I did not and could not, so I used the stock mount . I happened to have an old Proboat 1500kv ( from a Fast Tech) , the cooler was on the short side so I slid it towards the back and the front was opened up a bit, I slid the motor into the clamp as best as I can, it will only grab a bit and I used black electrical tape to increase the diameter of the motor can. Just a little till it fits snug.DSCN1907_1397.jpg, DSCN1909_1398.jpg.
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Too many boats, not enough time...
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In the first photo, I put the ESC in the stock battery platform, it was so difficult to place the batteries in and also the COG was a bit front-heavy. Lenny suggested that I should mount the ESC ON TOP of the motor, so I can slide the batteries more towards the back of the boat. I am glad I followed his advice. DSCN1986_1474.jpg
I am very happy with the speed after the conversion, I still use the stock prop, but I up graded the cable to an OSE one:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1085 .
The brass tube on the Rio is a bit bigger than 4mm, that shaft has a hair of free play, but compared to a stock AQ cable/shaft, the quality is day and night. I simply could not use the stock unit with the increased speed of a BL motor---the thing was unbalanced and out of round! The step -down to 1/8" will alow you to use a stock prop, if you plan to use other prop, DO NOT get the step-down version!
I did have to fibricate an ESC mount out of sheet metal, but was easy.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Thats a nice setup hull seems like the perfect size for what you squeeeeeezed in there lol. Do you have video with this setup?Comment
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He get's wet when shooting video and driving,
4S is a lot of ballast for that boat.
The video was to short in run time to really see how she planing for you,
I would like to see some more video of it running to,
Just don't fall in while shooting or hit anything.
From follow up of Gilligan's last video,
Look out for that island.
Last edited by lenny; 10-28-2012, 02:47 PM.Comment
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Hey,
No center rudder did not work to good in testing,
Single rudder on starboard side works best.
Your last video looked a little faster,
What are the temps of the motor and cell pack and esc after a 3 minute run ?
You need to check it right away after running it before it starts to cool down !
Was that with the 8.4 5000mah pack ?
And what make are the cell packs that you are using and how much are they ?$$$
Last video the boat was hopping a little,
Use the trim tabs to trim it out.
Bend the port side one down 1/16" and see if it helps, With the hopping.
Do you have any pictures of the transom and hardware to see how it is setup.
That would help me help you with setup for better planning
Last edited by lenny; 10-28-2012, 11:00 AM.Comment
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Hey,
Look at this post. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...king-for-lipos
This guy does not use paypal or credit cards ether,
Maybe it will work for you when wanting to buy thing on line and hear.Last edited by lenny; 03-07-2014, 09:34 AM.Comment
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He get's wet when shutting video and driving,
4S is a lot of ballast for that boat.
The video was to short in run time to really see how she planing for you,
I would like to see some more video of it running to,
Just don't fall in while shutting or hit anything.
From follow up of Gilligan's last video,
Look out for that island.
Lenny is right, we discussed that a long time ago and his rudder set up is very good, also my boat is heavily laden, however, not to the extend that it would seriously undermine the performance. You should tale a good look at his set up.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Hey buddy,
I have been running it on 3s and it flys literally if I am not careful sometimes,
But the other day I tried running mine on 2s and thought that it was running very good and pretty fast,
I need to gps it next time on 2s and see what it is doing.Last edited by lenny; 03-07-2014, 08:50 AM.Comment
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This is gonna be a very noob question
. Is the starboard sid left or right when looking at the back of the boat?
I'm not to sure of the temps I don't have a temp gauge but the esc is not even that warm the pack is warm and the motor is a bit warmer then the pack
sorry I know this doesn't help very much but hoping to get a temp gauge soon.
I have 2 Nimh packs they are a 7.2v 5000Mah Venom and an 8.4v 5000Mah Traxxas series 5.
The venom came with the boat so I don't know the price but I just got the Traxxas yesterday and it was $74.99.
After the last run you seen when it was hopping I put the tabs down and the hopping wasn't so bad.
Here is a couple of pics of my boat.
for all the noob questions.
I am hoping to get out to try the 8.4v pack soon and when I do I will get some video and post it so you can check it out.
I almost forgot today I picked up a proboat 1.6" x 2.5 prop can't wait to try it the cool thing is it is 1/4" shaft and it came with a sleeve for the 1/8" shaft
so now I can use the sleeve for any 1/4" shaft prop and I don't have to make one.
IMG_20121028_025117.jpg IMG_20121028_025234.jpg IMG_20121028_025246.jpg
Here is also a pic of my packs and charger.
IMG_20121028_024959.jpg
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If you are looking at the back of the boat (transom) : Left= Port, Right= starboard. Remember L*E*F*T* are four letters, and so is P*O*R*T*. I had trouble remembering this for the longest time till I learned this trick.
Did you take one rudder off or the boat came this way, I am sure it works, just never thought of that!
Good that your prop came with a sleeve!
I am no help with your temp question: I think if you can put your fingers on the motor and the ESC for a few seconds, you are ok for now, everyone's interpretation of temp is different, so it is hard to tell. But if your finger can't touch for a split second, then you are asking for trouble.
just my $.02Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Me,
Are we having fun yet,
It's Easy, Starboard is right driver side like in a car in the Uk.
First thing I see for you to do is give more gap at the drive dog and flex tube 3/16 or a little more won't hurt,
I see all your hardware is stock and you took one rudder off,
I modded my rudder and bracket for testing,
And than bought a new used rudder with water pick up and bracket in the swop shop for 10.00.
With one rudder it has less drag in the water,
You can also take off all the hardware and sharpen and sand smooth all the metal hardware,
And polish it to make it look nice and shiny.
Also you can sand the hull from middle of bottom to stern of boat with #400 grit sand paper.
By doing these mods it will have less drag in the water, Witch will give more speed and run time to.
Like a dragster with out a parachute.
Little late now, But you could have did a WTB for the 8.4 cells and got away a lot cheaper.
Or went with a breshless setup, 25.00 motor, 35.00 to 50.00 Esc and some $20.00 7.2 30c 5000mah 20.00 each,
And a good used metal x440 S&B prop 25.00.
Esc, motors, and lipos for cheap new,
Links. Ose hear or, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.rc
Also in swap shop hear, Just watch who you buy from on hear.
Last edited by lenny; 10-29-2012, 12:03 PM.Comment
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Well it finally stoped raining from storm sandy and I'm hoping I can get out tomorrow to try the new battery and if I do I will post some video when I get home.Comment
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Man 75 bucks for a nihm pack, wish you would just listen and do a brushless lipo set up and stop throwing money at it. Why the fixation on brushed motors and nihm cells. Time to meet the rest of us in 2012 and stop living in 2000Comment
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I went out todat and tried both props the stock 42mm and the new 40mm not to sure which is faster here are both videos anyong have any idea which one looks faster?
This is 42mm
This is 40mm
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? ONLY IF THEY WORK 
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