rio set up questions

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  • hobie
    Member
    • Aug 2010
    • 98

    #16
    I love my rio, but got sick of always messing with it to try and keep it the right side up! Lol! So I went and got the new Venom P1. Way to small of a prop on it, but now after reading some more, I'm afraid if I prop up to much, I will encounter the same thing?? Can anyone anwser that for me?

    I did try a smaller one on the Rio, lost so much bottom end, I decided to stay with the stock one and live having to adjust the rudders for the amount of throttle I was giving it.

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    • Diesel6401
      Memento Vivere
      • Oct 2009
      • 4204

      #17
      Originally posted by Trevor January
      well some stock came in at ose so i got some props on order
      maybe they will get here soon so i can see what the changes of the prop will do for the boat i hope it's a prop issue cause i don't really want to to put a lot more into in to it i think i would rather use the parts and time another boat that would be a much better return in the end i do have some i should build but this would make a great rescue boat
      Which props did you order? Pre sharpened and balanced or are you going to do it yourself.
      - Diesel's Youtube
      - Diesel's Fleet
      "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

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      • Diesel6401
        Memento Vivere
        • Oct 2009
        • 4204

        #18
        Originally posted by hobie
        I love my rio, but got sick of always messing with it to try and keep it the right side up! Lol! So I went and got the new Venom P1. Way to small of a prop on it, but now after reading some more, I'm afraid if I prop up to much, I will encounter the same thing?? Can anyone anwser that for me?

        I did try a smaller one on the Rio, lost so much bottom end, I decided to stay with the stock one and live having to adjust the rudders for the amount of throttle I was giving it.
        What is the stock prop size in mm and shaft diameter. I think I read it's a 4mm drive at 37mm diameter is that correct? The problem you are going to have with the P1 is if it is a 4mm drive that limits your selection on props and also with the inline rudder you will not be able to prop up size for 2 reasons:
        1) If you go to big the prop will strike the rudder hardware or you may have to adjust the strut negative to make room for the prop to clear which may make the boat run to wet.
        2) I think with the inline rudder a bigger prop can dramatically introduce torque roll and prop walk, because the rudder is not offset to somewhat help that.
        - Diesel's Youtube
        - Diesel's Fleet
        "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

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        • hobie
          Member
          • Aug 2010
          • 98

          #19
          Thanks for the reply. Ok, that does make sense.
          Yes it is a 4mm shaft, as far as prop size... The manual says it's a 40x1.4. I measured it up with a 40mm 2 blade prop, and they seemed very close in size?? The one thing I'm very confused about is the difference between 2 blade and 3 blade props?? Should I stick with is 3 blade when I try a different prop?
          Soooo much to learn.... But a blast doing it!

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          • hobie
            Member
            • Aug 2010
            • 98

            #20
            Oh, and more more question... I was thinking about adding a shim on the bottom side of the rudder strut, moving the back end up and giving a bit more clearance?? The adjust the rudder so it's vertical again???
            I was thinking a small washer on the bottom bolts to move it out just a bit?? Just another thought, but not sure what would happen with the setup? I guess something to try and then post some results.
            .... Now, to just not have to do this work thing and be able to boat all day!

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            • Jesse J
              scale FE racer
              • Aug 2008
              • 7116

              #21
              on torque roll: two blade same size will decrease it, but diameter is best way. Agree with Diesels X435 or even x635. My suggestion would be 3000KV motor on 3S and X435 prop (mine was in the 40s and super stable - until there was any chop)

              If you are gonna redo the stuffing tube, it is a good idea to fiberglass the hull while its gutted. I swapped out the stock hardware to reduce drag (one rudder) and add an adjustable strut so you can control ride attitude.

              for more info on my build, see my Rio overhaul thread.
              "Look good doin' it"
              See the fleet

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              • Trevor January
                Member
                • Aug 2010
                • 30

                #22
                well i have an update

                i ran the same setup except this time i ran a 36-53 grimracer metal prop and i got new trim tabs for my sv27 so i used those on the rio as well as new turn fins and wow that made it alot better the only problem i can see now is that drive out the transom is moving due to toqure which is not going to help anything but it ran better a little to much chop to see how much different it is but not bad

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