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measure its length from the leading edge to the tip. That distance will be the pitch. I'd try a yv mm prop. Maybe x637.
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Why not try one of the props Steve sells here the fiberglass composit ones they come in 4mm and have sizes that would be good for your testing needs....just sharpen there edges like i shown so they cut through the water good and they work very good.Comment
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Thats good to know. Ill find something soon, hopefully!Comment
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I"VE GOT A VIDEO!
This is a video shot last week on a really windy day so the water was really quite rough. I never got to full speed but I definetly got going and the Rio Ep handled the waves quite well
Rio Ep
I also have this video of the Arrow Wind in the same rough water, it's awesome it was jumping and flying really well, it was very fun!
Check 'em out!Comment
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What do you guys think of these?Comment
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I thought they were awesome. My new 4cell lipo arrived two days ago and I will be heading out to the lake today for a test run. The problem with my brushless setup was balance. That is the reason I order a heavier battery in an attempt to get the cg toward the back. I dont have the boating skills or knowledge to relocate the motor and components to different locations. Im glad you got yours running good. Hopefully I can join in your success with my own brushless Rio.
ReaperComment
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Have you been adjsting the trim fins for the balance? I had to adjust those a bit to get better balence. I even tried to move the battery to the opposite side that the boat was leaning when running. In the end I just put the battery back and found the perfect position of the trim fins with my motor.
I actually ordered a new ESC because the one I had was cutting in and out (I returned it to the manufacturer) so, I ordered a seaking that has reverse also. Can't wait till it gets here.Comment
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Seaking's are great! I would only use reverse when absolutely necessary though. You will be spinning the flex cable in reverse, and too much load will cause it to unwind. Whick seaking is it?Comment
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It's the 60A with a 120A burst. Which is good since the motor is only a 40A motor.Comment
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Hey man, ive been reading your thread with interest. I JUST got my Rio EP today and immediately put in a Novak 2S lipo cut off and went out to run the boat. In like 10 minutes the ESC died... servo gears also stripped.
Anyway, I went stright to e-bay and bought an ESC with the following specs:Output:
Continuous 50A, Burst 60A up to 12 Secs. (no backward)
Input Voltage: 50A: 2-7 cells lithium battery or 5-16 cells NiCd/NIMh battery.
Weight: 33g.
3A BEC
and a 3600 KV water cooled brushless motor. They came as a set for $40CDN shipped. SUPER cheap I know. Do you think this will work on 2S in the Rio EP? I have 3S but I dont really want to use it. I dont want insane speeds... your boat is too fast for me. I just want it to be faster than the stock setup, and reliable.
What do you think?Comment
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I'm guessing too much strain on the ESC, I've heard of others who lost their stock ESC from too much power. But it seems as though it doesn't matter since you've gotten a new one and a new motor.
The ESC will probably be fine but do you know what the max amp draw the motor is rated at?
Hopefully not more than 50A. If they were sold together then they were probably matched well.
One thing I will say is that the ESC definetly makes a difference on reliability. I've gone through 2 different ESCs before I got my seaking because the other two quit working correctly.
Just keep an eye on yours and as long as it stays cool enough that you can hold your fingers on it for 5-10 seconds your fine.
I would think you would easily get more speed than stock with that setup though. When you have it assembled you should youtube it and post a video of the internal setup and of it running.Comment
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I think I found the combo you bought on eBay, funny thing is I think that's the same motor I have! lol. Well it works pretty well if it is!
But like I was saying I would just keep an eye on the ESC and make sure it keeps up well.
There is one thing I will warn you of then if it is the same. The piece of metal that lies on top of the motor to keep it in place is a little loose on the motor. It will spin and yank the watercooling out of the side of the boat, then flood the hull. If you want to avoid this, what I did was cut up one of those rubber jar openers that you get everywhere to the width of the metal covering. I then wrapped it around the motor once and tightened the screws on the metal cover nice and tight. This has completly prevented the motor from moving at all!Comment
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Excellent. I thought the motor I got looked just like yours also. I read about your fix for the motor fitment and was going to do that from the start. I noticed on one of your earlier pics you had a water cooling kit added to the first ESC you had that WASENT water cooled. It was held on with an elastic. Where did you get that? I can get a 60 amp ESC from e-bay for like $20 and it is watercooled. I might jsut get that anyway... order it now and then ill jsut have it when I need it.Comment
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Yeah, that was just a rubberband holding this:
to the ESC. It works fairly well but the ESCs that have the watercooling integrated into them are better. That sounds like a plan to me.Comment
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Hmmm, yeah, I think ill just run the 50amp ESC for now, if it dies I can get the 60 amp watercooled ESC for $25 shipped and a 120 amp watercooled ESC for $45 shipped. If I wait, id likely just get the 120 amp ESC and skip getting the 60,
After all your running, do you think the stock prop will be O.K? I have a bunch of spares but they are all 42mm. Again, ill just be running 2S and I dont need to go super fast. Just want it to plane quickly and stay cool.Comment
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