Benno's Revolt 30

[SirBenno]

Hey gang. Thought I would post up my Revolt. This is my first RC boat and have been following the forum for a few months now trying to learn as much as possible. Very few of my hobbies would be much fun without the help of forums so thanks to OSE and forum staff for running a good one.
I bought this used as a package off eBay. Came with two Grim Racer 2s 5000mAh 40C lipos, an Onyx 245 charger, and a handy ElectriFly PowerMatch.
So far she has been running well. The flex shaft was very dry and somewhat rusty when I got the boat but I cleaned it up well and treated it to a grease bath, most of the friction was pretty much eliminated right away.
I love the Onyx for the dual charge but it is missing a storage charge mode which is kind of inconvenient.
The PowerMatch has been has been great. So far I pretty much just use it to check voltages and power levels which helps me determine run times and what capacity to store the batteries at.

I have had her out for a few runs and I was very impressed with what I assume is the stock setup of the boat. From my limited knowledge it seemed like the boat was stable without being too wet. The second run I sharpened the rudder and turn fins and also filed the cast flashing off the stock prop. Seemed to pick up a bunch more speed when I did this. Ran it a few times with that setup.







The boat has been running well. Everything runs cool and seems very fast for out of the box spec. Looking forward to beefing her up but just want a reliable build I can put a lot of run time into.

[SirBenno]

Okay so I did have my first problem this morning. Sort of my motivation for making my own thread lol.
Today I tried a new setup. Was trying to get the boat to run a little more loose as I play around finding the right setup. I raised the prop strut up a hair so that it is about 0.4" from the bottom of the boat. I raised the right trim tab and lowered the left to help the torque steer. I also had my phone sitting right by the battery tray trying out a GPS speedometer.

As the boat was running it seemed wetter than usual. Also seemed to be running a bit slower. I commented to my brother that it would probably be hotter than usual when I brought it in (after about 4min of running). Well when opened the canopy a little bit of smoke came out which is never a good thing ;-) Initially I thought it might have been a little bit of pool noodle smoke as my ESC Y connector wires had been getting reasonably hot the past few runs. Though I'm sure the melting point of pool noodles is relatively low, it is somewhat concerning that the wires would be getting that hot but I kept an eye on it and put bullet connectors on my growing to-do list.
However after touching all the wires and electronics I realised that everything was pretty cool still. What was skin searingly hot was the stuffing tube. I guess there had been a whole bunch of friction in there, so much so that it even melted the teflon liner a little. I suspect the extra friction was responsible for the boat running slower and wetter.

Here's a pic of how she looks now.



There doesn't seem to be much damage, maybe a little bit of a wobble I figure is caused by melted teflon in the shaft wire. There is now some resistence when I free spin the driveline in the stuffing tube.
So I guess I need to order a new flex shaft before I can run her again. Anyone have any thoughts on what could have caused this friction? When I got the boat the shaft looked like the wire bundle had started to separate a little near the soldered end. Didn't seem to get any worse though after the few times I ran it. Also I will confess that I have been using bicycle ceramic bearing grease and not specific flex shaft grease but I couldn't see that being the issue (just thought I would disclose).
Also the stuffing tube is perfectly aligned with the motor. I broke it free and aligned it before epoxying it back into place so pretty sure alignment isn't the issue. Could raising the strut that tiny bit have caused extra friction? Or was it just coincidence that it happened on the same run.

I may never know the true cause but I certainly will be running a new upgraded flex shaft. Any difference between the OSE and Kintec? Also thinking of an X642 while I'm at it.

[tlandauer]

You said the boat was running wetter and slower, the slower she runs the wetter she gets (no pun intended).
Few things possible looking at your pictures:
1) No grease in the tube, friction causes serious binding and heat, looking at you cable's discoloration and the start of unwinding of the strands.
2) You collet was not tight enough , it was spinning a bit, motor was turning faster than your prop. Smoke is the result of the collet slipping on the cable like a sanding tool.
3) All of the above.
To correct:
Get upgrade cable and collet from OSE, also change to a new teflon liner---important!
Always grease the cable after your run, I check after the 3rd pack of the battery on the same day if I plan to run more, you will be surprised how little of the grease is left after high speed runs.
In case it is the No.2 case, even with a new collet, you need to put a dab of anti-seizing compound on the threads of the collet, it allows the collet to be tightened further without galling. I had the exact problem on a DF 45" Sniper with 1/4" cable and collet, it had smoke when I opened the hatch. Here is what I am talking about:http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343...eize+lubricant This is a trick I learned from Fluid here at the Forum.
P.S.I should say that with the collet issue, it is not because you haven't tightened it all the way, the metal galling prevents it being tightened all the way, the trick really works.
I re-read your thread, it is not uncommon for stock cable to look like yours, and I am glad you gave it a grease bath. You need to BALANCE and THIN your prop, just filing off the casting flashing is not enough! Unbalanced prop will speed up the wear and tear on your components!
I would try a M445 prop.

[SirBenno]

Thanks for the response! I will pick up some of that anti-seize, not a bad idea to lube the threads of the collet. I use tons of the copper permatex on my car so maybe that will suffice for the collet. I did tighten the collet pretty good and I would think if it was slipping there would be a sign of that on the end of the flex shaft/solder. Especially given that the entire stuffing tube (save the part that rides in the water lol) was extremely hot it makes me think it originated in the stuffing tube area. Just seemed odd to me that it would run fine the last 5 runs or so then this friction out of nowhere with no real signs of damage.
Time will tell whether a new flex shaft addresses this problem, I'll report back with my results when the parts arrive.
I'm gonna play around with some props too and order a balancing stand. Like any new hobby there are so many little parts to buy it can be overwhelming which is why I don't mind running stock setups for a little bit. So many hobbies, so little time ;-)

[Mike Caruso]

Grim cable grease (re grease every run) end of the day remove shaft clean and dry both the tube and cable. then re grease cable. (Cable can rust inside the winds.)
Hughey cable, OSE or Octura any of these cable's.
Grim 45 X 68, Octura props M-445, X-642 or M-645 runs the hottest sharpen and balance. (make sure the shaft used to balance props runs true) M-545 requires a lot of thinning of blades. All my props where run at .400" depth hull bottom to center line of tube straight and true no +/-.
48+ mph anyday and watch you time on battery.
Have fun.
Mike

[SirBenno]

Hey Mike,
thanks for the reply. I have been creeping your builds quite a bit over the last couple weeks lol. I am thinking the X-642 is a good intermediate prop that won't push my luck too much on the stock ESC. What do you think? I'll order 2 and try sharpening/balancing them myself.
I remove the flex shaft and bushing after every day and wipe it clean, regrease, and leave out of the boat so the stuffing tube can dry. Also I have a fitting on my air pump I use to flush the water out of the cooling lines. Aquacraft suggests removing the motor after every use which I think sounds excessive and probably not good for the mounting blocks. I can see the merit of it as water comes out of the cooling jacket any time I remove the motor but I just think the mounting holes will strip out with repeated use.

[Mike Caruso]

The X-642 won't need much work. I blow WD-40 through the cooling system I don't remove the motor, BUT I do flush the motor every 4 to 6 runs with WD-40, then Corrosion-X, then oil bearings with this great stuff ACER Racing's SIN lube from my RC car. Now I spent some money on these products and very glad I did. You will never be sorry. Electric CLEANER for connectors spray 5 oz. can DeoxIT #D5 on them they will clean right up. Once cleaned and dry I LUBE connectors with spray 5 oz. can DeoxIT #DS the second time you push and pull your connectors apart you will be a believer. Lube love this stuff. I also have some of their DeoxIT D100L but have not used it yet.
Keep it right side up my friend.
Mike

[SirBenno]

Excellent this is all invaluable info. I would think WD40 would wreck cooling lines but I guess you could just replace them every couple months. I have tons of very nice bearing lubes and stuff from racing bicycles the past 14 years so lots to choose from and experiment with.
Definitely be picking up some stuff for the electrical connectors, great idea.

[Mike Caruso]

WD-40 has not hurt my lines in a year no worries.
Your welcome glad to help.

[Phoebe]

If you're worried about the mounting blocks, just dribble a bit of thin CA into each hole. After it has cured (and be sure it has) rethread the screws into your newly reinforced threads. The key is not to overtighten the mounting screws. With care they'll never strip.

My $ .02, throw the POS stock shaft and collet away before you loose a perfectly good prop.

BTW, the WD40 won't harm your cooling lines at all.

[fox88gt]

+1 on not using the stock flexshaft. There is a S&B Grim 42x55 on the bottom of my local pond in 18' of water thanks to the stock shaft. However I haven't had any issues with the stock collet, maybe I just got a good one, seems other folks haven't had good luck with them.

[Mike Caruso]

The first AQ collets had three clamping sections and where brittle, the second AQ design much better four clamping sections. I use Aeromarine .150" and bought an extra collet .187" so I can go up on cable size if need be. So far the .150" Hughey is fine even with M-645 prop......NO DRAG RACE STARTS

[Cinnabun]

I run a .187 cable in my revolt running a 3674 leopard and swinging a m545. No problems with drag racing

[BHChieftain]

The X-642 won't need much work. I blow WD-40 through the cooling system I don't remove the motor, BUT I do flush the motor every 4 to 6 runs with WD-40, then Corrosion-X, then oil bearings with this great stuff ACER Racing's SIN lube from my RC car. Now I spent some money on these products and very glad I did. You will never be sorry. Electric CLEANER for connectors spray 5 oz. can DeoxIT #D5 on them they will clean right up. Once cleaned and dry I LUBE connectors with spray 5 oz. can DeoxIT #DS the second time you push and pull your connectors apart you will be a believer. Lube love this stuff. I also have some of their DeoxIT D100L but have not used it yet.
Keep it right side up my friend.
Mike

Why WD-40 the motor at all? ( I also use corrosion X on my motor, but only when it gets wet). Also, why WD-40 the cooling lines?

Chief

[Cinnabun]

Wd40 displaces water.