Adjusting the LVC on the RTR Revolt 30

[Mike Caruso]

Yes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.

[Tom899]

Yes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.

Yes this is true. But, the engineer in me wants more tweeking and adjustments for trial and error and maybe I'll learn something along the way.

[metoo]

Old thread but still valid.

I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.

[Mike Caruso]

Wish you fun with the Revolt.

[Grimracer]

[QUOTE=metoo;504018]That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis).QUOTE]

Mind if I say something about this.

The NORM is.. you can safely walk out to pick up your crashed plane, heli and RC car.. YOU CAN NOT WITH AN RC BOAT. A new danger is involved and THAT.. is why it is BEST to know your boat, run times.


Again..be safe.

Grim

p.s. As a racer I have not come close to using up the MAH in my race setup..

[Doby]

Old thread but still valid.

I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.

Sounds like you did all the required research and are an expert on LVC and its use in boats...

[jetskier]

I never let mine get to studder mode. Working in automotive and aviation testing has trained my hearing very well. I listen to the straightaway RPM drops and I usually can get about 8min run time on my 4200 and 4500mAh going full tilt, varying speed, and stop sometimes. I have 4 4S batteries to run and also have 3 batteries for my Barbwire. with both it gives me a good amount of time till I'm tired of running. when I get home and put the batteries on the charger, they all take in about 3000-3600mAh don't know how accurate the readings are. I'm very happy with the stock ESC, I don't see any reason for me to change it out. I'm still new to RC boating but from my experience with jetski racing, automotive, and avaition. usually stock setup and settings has been tested and proven and given a warranty, and once you modified.. your on your own.

[rickwess]

After initially running the boat through a few packs, my main concerns with the stock ESC were (in order of importance):

- LVC at 11.6V is too low. I'd don't want my LiPo cells dropping below 3V.
- Not very smooth/linear. It seems to go from 0 to 30% power in one jump.
- I got caught twice with a dead battery in the middle of he lake after the "bump" gave me about 10secs of warning. If the LVC was higher, this wouldn't have happened.

LOVE the boat, not so much the ESC. I run Tekin in my cars so maybe I'm just used to the way they work.

[Fluid]

The AQ 60A controller is clearly under-rated, since I run it in applications pulling well over 80 amps with no problems. Sure, it is not as linear as some other controllers and the LVC is a bit on the low side, but it is one of the few ESCs which are actually waterproof. In spite of claims to the contrary, ESCs like the Swordfish can be damaged/destroyed if they get wet. The way the AQ 60A controllers are made, it is almost impossible to destroy them with water.

While I have not tried it, it may be possible to run an external LVC with the AQ controller. Cheaper than a new ESC and it would cure that complaint....if it works.



.

[BHChieftain]

I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.

I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.

Chief

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

[rickwess]

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

Or I could program my LVC to 3.2V/cell and make life so much easier.

Like I noted above, LVC voltage is my biggest issue. There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. If it was programmable for LVC, it'd be running it until it died.

[jetskier]

There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals.

that goes with aftermarkets too. stretching the profit margin. that's why it's all made in China or better.. engineer in the US and made in China.

[tlandauer]

I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.

I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.

Chief

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

This is very good info for me, not about the LVC, but about the robustness of the AQ ESC, I too have problems with my Tunnel on the caps of Seaking 120 ESC, added a cap pack, was great, now I have a second Tunnel, ML PS-295, will be hard to add a capbank due to different set up.
It is funny, never had a broblem with the Seaking 120 ESC on all my other boats, but I think for some reason with the driving style ( more part throttle thru the turns) the ESC is working harder.
Guess I will be buying a AQ ESC after all.

[BHChieftain]

Or I could program my LVC to 3.2V/cell and make life so much easier.

Like I noted above, LVC voltage is my biggest issue. There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. If it was programmable for LVC, it'd be running it until it died.

(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.

Chief

[Doby]

(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.

Chief

Exactly..Its an unreliable way that gives a false sense of security....