My rebuilt UL1

[alvinsmith75]

Ran this morning with a x437/3. It was far too windy to give a fair comparison but I can say this. On GPS it ran 42.1 and I ran for 8 minutes and still had battery to burn. Even when it is calm the boat wobbles side to side in long straights. How should I adjust my rudder and turn fin to help?
Thanks,
Alvin

Forgot to mention that the hottest thing after that long run with that prop was the motor at a mere 121degrees.

[Brushless55]

8 min, thats a good run..
How many Mah did you put back after that run with the X437/3 ?

[alvinsmith75]

I don't know because I put the batteries on a storage charge on mu Duo2. They did show 15.2 volts each when I first put them on.

[alvinsmith75]

Ran again today. I lowered the turn fin a hair and the boat handled much better. I also tried an octura x642 prop. This prop was my favorite as far as handling. It cornered great and ran 46.5mph. I am seing a re-occuring problem. When I use these larger props the boat will shut down after about 3 minutes. Let it sit then it works again. Is this a protective shut down on the stock ESC? Has anyone else had this problem? Basically it seems as if I run a prop that runs the boat over 45mph this happens. If I use a prop that runs the boat under 45mph it works fine.

[line6]

My friend just did this with his UL last time out. we think that it is a thermal overload protection he pinched a water line and had no cooling at all. by the time we got it back in the motor was 150. but i cant recall the SC temp i don't think it was super hot but the do cool down faster than a motor.

[alvinsmith75]

Sorry I left out important info.
Esc temp 114
Capacitor temp 110
Is it possible I have to much capacitor capacity.(Does that even make sense?)

[line6]

Maybe you are hitting The LVC

[detox]

Check your 4mm esc/motor connectors. Those cheap Aquacraft connectors will heat up and become unsoldered which will cause the symptoms you are experiencing. I replaced those cheap connectors with Castle's beefier 5.5mm connectors.


...

[line6]

Good point detox. i replaced mine with the OSE 5.5 also just to be safe

[alvinsmith75]

Definately not LVC. I will install 6.5mm connectors next(cause that's what I have). Or just solder the wires direct. Probably will go with the direct solder method. No need for connectors if i'm gonna keep this motor and ESC for a while. Can anyone think of a reason I should't do this?
Alvin

[alvinsmith75]

Check your 4mm esc/motor connectors. Those cheap Aquacraft connectors will heat up and become unsoldered which will cause the symptoms you are experiencing. I replaced those cheap connectors with Castle's beefier 5.5mm connectors.


...

Detox yo are the man. I don't care what anyone else says about you. JJ I sliced the heat shrink on on one of the connectors and when I pulled the shrink, guess what? The connector came off. I just finished soldering the wires directly together. I will go out in a few with the x642 and try it again.
Thanks,
Alvin

[detox]

That just comes from experience...and board member LUCKYDUCK. There are LOTS OF OTHERS who have WAY more experience than I have. TEST TEST TEST

[alvinsmith75]

Ran again today. I lowered the turn fin a hair and the boat handled much better. I also tried an octura x642 prop. This prop was my favorite as far as handling. It cornered great and ran 46.5mph. I am seing a re-occuring problem. When I use these larger props the boat will shut down after about 3 minutes. Let it sit then it works again. Is this a protective shut down on the stock ESC? Has anyone else had this problem? Basically it seems as if I run a prop that runs the boat over 45mph this happens. If I use a prop that runs the boat under 45mph it works fine.

Finally!!!! Something that makes sense. Same setup as a bove mentioned. Same water conditions. The only difference was soldering the esc wires directly to the motor Boat ran excellet and faster, 47.6mph. I ran for a whole 6min and 20 sec. then came in(not on LVC). The hottest thing was the motor and that was only 142 Degrees, esc 124 deg. I just put the lipo's on charge and they were at 14.9volts. Will try the y537/3 again next.
Thanks Detox,
Alvin

[TCR]

Forgot to mention that the hottest thing after that long run with that prop was the motor at a mere 121degrees.

This should be obvious, but hasn't been mentioned. IMO, you need to move either the inlet or the outlet on your motor jacket as water will take the path of least resistance. On yours, once water fills the jacket, it will flow from one hole to the other(which are too close), you really should move your inlet or outlet to the other side of the jacket.

[Capt. Crash]

The stock UL-1 water jacket was set up this way and it made no since to me either. Plus the inlet/outlet are on the side, not on top. However....I've left mine alone because I've got NO overheating problems and it don't leak! If it works...don't mess with it!