First run with the UL-1

[brad65]

Hey guys, I've been staring at the UL-1 in the lhs for months now and I decided to ask if he would let it go cheaper. Needless to say I go it for 285! First thing I did was make my own alum sleeve water jack (stock one is a piec of crap do to the thread caps are way to big need a much higer tolerance). I desided to lube the shaft and go through everything. Other than that I left it stock and wanted to just try it out. Also I'm running 4000/5000mah size 2s lipos (maxamps) on the stock prop. Man that stock prop sucks reminds me of my sv27 when I had the stock prop on it LOL. I notice I couldn't steer as much as I wanted to so I drilled another hole in the servo horn and gave myself a tighter steering radius. On my second run I installed a GrimmRacer 42*55mm 2 blade prop. All I can say is night and day difference almost 0 cav and she moves out big time! I didn't get to check the temps because the set screw in the motor coupling came loose (blue loketite is my friend). So, will I be ok with that large of a prop? Also does the 2 blade hop more than a 3 blade prop? Sorry guys, I'm a newbie two hydro's. I've read alot on the ul-1 and I'v worried about the hull cracking

[detox]

My three favorite props are Grimracer L38 x 55, L40 x 57/3, and Octura m440. The three blade L40 x 57/3 prop seems to handle ruff water better.

Your 42 x 55 is probably veryclose to borderline of being safe to run with the weak UL-1esc. A seperate BEC may help ESC live longer using larger props than recomended by Aquacraft.


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[brad65]

I hear ya, I didn't even want to go full seed with the 42 it seem way to crazy. I just like the none cav it gave me. I will have to try some of those you mentioned thank you

[bwells]

I've been around boats all my life but new to RC boats. It has been my understanding that a 2 blade prop is for speed and a 3 blade was for power, out of the hole for pulling a skier. Does this change for RC boats?

[CircusCircus]

I've been around boats all my life but new to RC boats. It has been my understanding that a 2 blade prop is for speed and a 3 blade was for power, out of the hole for pulling a skier. Does this change for RC boats?

This is True, typicallly a 2 blade is faster in the straight runs and slower in the turns, while the 3 blade is faster in the corners and slower on the straights.

[sewerpit]

hey circus you have any pics of your AZ boats how do you like them

[brad65]

Today I deside to try a 40/52mm grimmracer 3 blade today, seem better than the stocker nice speed nothing to crazy. But I lost my canopy, can I run with out one does it effect the airflow? Also can I run with out the tail fins also?

[Meniscus]

...But I lost my canopy, can I run with out one does it effect the airflow?

At higher speeds it will effect airflow, but I'd be more concerned about a blow-over. Do you use hatch tape and how did you lose the hatch? For the future, attach flotation to the underside of the hatch. Then you can at least fish it out in the event the tape pulls off and it comes off, but I've yet to see this happen when taped properly.

Please consider not running without a hatch...that is unless you have all of the extra parts such as motor, batteries, ESC, servo, etc. laying around and you're willing to lose it all. Also keep in mind what happens to lipos when they get wet.

I don't want to come off as insulting, but rather just wanted to make sure you consider the consequences.

Only a recommendation though

[brad65]

all good, I did tape the canopy to the bottom, I guess it wasn't enough. I hear ya I do want another one, I just looked up the price 33 bucks damn! I notice there was alittle foam inside of the nose piece guess it wasn't enough ethier. That sucks I watched it disappear into the water and I didn't want to go swimming ethier.

[Meniscus]

So how did the canopy come off? Did it flip? Did you tape all around? And finally, what kind of tape did you use?

[brad65]

Ok I didn't tape all around, I'm guessing I should have I just put two pieces of electrical tape on the bottom to hold it in place. Yes I flipped here, I got no water at all inside include the hull also. I like the way this boat seals it very simple. I ordered the canopy her, it was to winding and I was pushing it. Anybody want to explain or show me the best way to attach this bad boy up? And how to fix the crack in the hull by the turn fin.

[longballlumber]

Darin has a nice explination on how to fix the turn fin area. Personally I chose to go thru the bottom of the sponson ride pad. However, I was planning on re-sheeting the sponson bottoms anyhow...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6249

[brad65]

wow I just went through the four pages. Man thats alot of detailed work he did. I'm thinking there has got to be any easier way like cutting that hole out of the hull in the same spot and add some fiberglass and some resin to reinforce that wall. If there are strong enough bolts in the hull to hold the turn fin mount then I'll like to reinforce just the wall and the ajcents walls. Bad idea?

[longballlumber]

Like I mentioned in the other post, I did mine a little different than Darin did on his. I should have taken pictures, but I didn’t my bad. I used the blind nuts (or T-nuts) into a new wood backing plate, but I also increased the size of the fasteners to 6-32 SHCS too. I was worried about stripping out the threaded aluminum plate that is installed from the factory. The material they used was to thin for my liking. I preferred more thread engagement. The other thing about using the blind nuts, they are typically made of stainless steel, which would be much stronger.

I am not saying that your idea of simply putting in my glass and resin won’t work; I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t need to fix this area again. Mine is maybe a little over kill, but I do know that it is going to take some major wreck before I will need to fix the turn fin area again.

Let us know if you have any questions.

[detox]

This is how I strengthened my turnfin area:

Loctite makes a syringe type 5min Epoxy (Homedepot sells this) that has the self mixing tips. I removed my Turn fin bracket then injected a whole syringe of this stuff into both screw holes in rear of sponson. I then quickly attached my mounting bracket before epoxy hardened (be sure to put grease on back side of bracket and screws so epoxy will not stick to them). Work quickly and set boat on stern (boat pointed strait up) so all of the epoxy will settle on inside rear of sponson. Done

My turnfin area is holding up verywell.


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