Newbie question of the day...Adding a power switch

[Capt. Crash]

I think I want to add a on/off switch in the place indicated. It would be out of sight but easily accessible too.

Having never done this on a FE boat...what are the recommendations on this application? What do I need to get and where do I get it?

Thanks Guys!

[AndyKunz]

Use something simple like a shorting plug. This should be your "safety switch."

You want to break the main power leads, not just turn off the rx.

Andy

[Jeff Wohlt]

Instead of the pull switch with the small rod, I prefer the slide swtich then use the rubber boot so no water comes in. See below..other make them as well with colors. I may have gotten mine from GS silicones...don't remember. This is the best set up for no water entry.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=switch+boot&search=Go

[Capt. Crash]

Use something simple like a shorting plug. This should be your "safety switch."

You want to break the main power leads, not just turn off the rx.

Andy

I didn't intend to turn on/off the ESC or receiver.

I like the shorting plug idea better than the switch, as you don't need to worry about water shorting cause that's what your doing anyway! Brilliant!

The only thing that comes to mind is a deans plug that has been jumper d....got anything else in mind?

[Ub Hauled]

Deans may be a good idea since it's a small current setup and they are small enough to place in that spot. A regular wire loop with 5.5mm plugs needs more room to preserve the integrity of the FG in the area. The problem with Deans is to solder 10 or 12 ga. wires on... that's the only downside I see.

[Capt. Crash]

Deans may be a good idea since it's a small current setup and they are small enough to place in that spot. A regular wire loop with 5.5mm plugs needs more room to preserve the integrity of the FG in the area. The problem with Deans is to solder 10 or 12 ga. wires on... that's the only downside I see.

The battery packs use 12 ga. and I solder/shrink those all the time with no problem. My plan is to add a "in line" deans plug inside the tub, between the packs and the ESC so I can completely remove the cowling and another one in the same line outside the cowling under the cockpit to short on/off the power. Just drill 2 holes for the wire to come out is the easiest most waterproof able thing I can come up with. Make sense?

Anyone know if adding two more deans in line with the ESC power will add a noticeable amount of resistance? I figure I will also be adding about a foot or two of the standard 12 ga. wire it already uses to the equation too.

[properchopper]

Invisiswitch

Here's a trick little goodie to turn on/off low current apps like a rx.

[sailr]

A shorting plug is the only answer with the amount of amps/volts we are using. A radio box, toggle, or the invisi switch won't carry the current.

[no stick]

I didn't intend to turn on/off the ESC or receiver.

I like the shorting plug idea better than the switch, as you don't need to worry about water shorting cause that's what your doing anyway! Brilliant!

The only thing that comes to mind is a deans plug that has been jumper d....got anything else in mind?

Here is a high current arming switch using Deans and power poles plug. It is used to provide an inline battery arming switch after all other connections are made. You need two, one for each battery for the UL-1 unless you can figure a way around it. It is set up for high power connections that can spark. Most on/off switches are between the ESC and receiver, however the inline battery plug can keep power being supplied to motor thru the ESC.

http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5527

Ed

[properchopper]

[QUOTE=no stick;74056] You need two, one for each battery for the UL-1 unless you can figure a way around it.

You only need to interrupt the jumper wire of the stock harness between the two batteries. Use ONE of those gizmos; cut off the deans, cut the jumper & splice the red wire(s) to each end.