Got a UL-1...let's see it!

[Flying Scotsman]

That is one hell of a paint job. Are the black stripes paint. If so a double wow.

To Properchopper
Tony, I love your graphics

Douggie

[Flying Scotsman]

I have used it on ABS hulls very successfully. I don't know about a painted glass hull, though.

Did you use white as a base coat? It makes the red really glow!

Andy

Andy/Detox, you can use the TS series of Tamiya paints, BUT test for compatability with Tamiya surface primer on a small portion of the pre painted surface after wet sanding. Tamiya paints are fantastic. All my boats are painted with this paint

Douggie

[sailr]

Be extremely careful using Steel Wool on your electric boat. Two reasons. First, the magnets in the motor can 'suck up' small fragments of the steel wool and cause you some serious problems like shorting out the fields, causing premature bearing wear, overheating, etc. Second, anyone that has ever used steel wool on a full size boat only does it ONCE. The tiny fragments from the steel wool lay on the gelcoat of the boat and cause rust stains that will NOT come out!

If you can find BRONZE wool, that's the stuff to use. I have tried unsuccessfully in the Tampa area to find 'fine' or 'extra fine' 3m scuff pads. I haven't tried an auto paint store yet. That's next. In lieu of all of the above, I use 600-1000 grit wetordry sandpaper.

Experimenting with Tamiya Fluorescent Red Lacquer. I did not use any primer. I just scuffed fins using 00 grade steel wool then wiped surface using denatured alcohal before painting. I wonder how well this paint will hold up to being taped then untaped? I may paint entire hull this color?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRS68&P=7

Tamiya has a verygood paint finishing section on their web site.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/index.php?id=8

[detox]

Be extremely careful using Steel Wool on your electric boat. Two reasons. First, the magnets in the motor can 'suck up' small fragments of the steel wool and cause you some serious problems like shorting out the fields, causing premature bearing wear, overheating, etc. Second, anyone that has ever used steel wool on a full size boat only does it ONCE. The tiny fragments from the steel wool lay on the gelcoat of the boat and cause rust stains that will NOT come out!

If you can find BRONZE wool, that's the stuff to use. I have tried unsuccessfully in the Tampa area to find 'fine' or 'extra fine' 3m scuff pads. I haven't tried an auto paint store yet. That's next. In lieu of all of the above, I use 600-1000 grit wetordry sandpaper.

Good Info...Thanks!

Wool and Scotch Brite pads form to curved surfaces lots easier than paper ever will.

[sailr]

And your point is? You have to work with what you can get and won't cause problems like steel wool.

Good Info...Thanks!

Wool and Scotch Brite pads form to curved surfaces lots easier than paper ever will.

[AndyKunz]

Who would paint a boat with the motor in it?!?!

Andy

[detox]

And your point is?

It would be well worth the effort to find some fine bronze wool or fine Scotch Brite pads. Fine sandpaper clogs TOO quickly and is difficult to hold on to while wet sanding.

http://www.steelwool.biz/Bronze_Wool.htm

[longballlumber]

Here is mine, painted with krylon rattle can and clear coated with Sikkens Autoclear III.

Looks really nice. Can you breif us on your prep?!?!?!?! Have you seen any "wrinkling" like Darin did?

Thanks
Mike

[sailr]

Andy! You should know better than that! You and I wouldn't but don't you know there are a lot of people our there that do crazy things? They just mask off the cockpit and paint away! Even removing the motor doesn't do any good if it's sitting anywhere near where they're using steel wool.

Who would paint a boat with the motor in it?!?!

Andy

[sailr]

Thanks for the link!

It would be well worth the effort to find some fine bronze wool or fine Scotch Brite pads. Fine sandpaper clogs TOO quickly and is difficult to hold on to while wet sanding.
http://www.steelwool.biz/Bronze_Wool.htm

[detox]

Here is mine, painted with krylon rattle can and clear coated with Sikkens Autoclear III.

Wow! Nice job! Resembles Kellog's Tony the Tiger. How did you keep from painting the black windshield? Did you mask the black decal or remove it then reapply it after painting? Next I will be painting my cockpit and motor cover area Fluorescent Red.




..................

[CircusCircus]

Hi guys, I prepped the hull using 600grit wet. and then just started masking my lines using fine line tape. Canopy I used a gray scotch brite and special Sikkens product call Primer PO specifically designed for raw plastic, this ensures a good bond between the subrate and your paint (paint wont peel off when tape is taken-off canopy), I think every paint manufacture has this type of primer.

For the windsheild I just masked it off with fine line tape, I dont think its a decal detox.

No wrinkles, I didnt experience any wrinkles, but they can be avioded by not pounding on your paint, go nice and light on your first two-three coats. Also Laquer and Enamel dont MIX, be sure the products you use are compatable.

[longballlumber]

Circus,

Thanks for you explination. I am almost finished with my sponson work which will leave me with preping and painting.

MIke

[bustitup]

Here are some pics of my UL-1 running yesterday. Pics taken by John Masciotti!

that boat look familiar...did I see it at the Waveblaster meet in florida on sunday the 15th of march?

[sailr]

Yes you did. I ran it in LSH class. Got 4th because I jumped the start in two out of three races, cut a buoy in another. DOH! Just think of the possibilities if I could drive! Haha.