It's Here!

[Jeff Wohlt]

Darin...he tinkered with his and brings up good points.

Alvin, I would be glad to get you what you need. Use the stock strut and I can get you fixed up with a hot set up you will like.

[Grimracer]

Alvin.. really.. you can do anything you like.. your going to do what you want anyway.. No skin off my back.. Please enjoy the boat!

BUT.. this is the same drive system I have won MULTIPLE national and district championships with AS WELL as MANY MANY other people using the same system.

Its proven
It works
Its tough
I dare you to ware it out
Its adjustable with in the limits of the hull.

Customize is one thing but would you yank the 6pack off your road runner and place a 2 barrel on it...? its just not forward progress thats all.. Im not tying to sound mean.. Sorry if I am.

Lets get Alvin rocking and get back to the boat at hand.

Somebody asked.. The stuffing tube is ¼”
Jeff Dude.. you replace the replaceable bushing...and or liner IF it wares out.

Grimracer

[alvinsmith75]

"Also, how long is the shaft from the drive dog to the cable"
Jeff the shaft is 1.5 in. and add .75 in. to that for stiff soldered cable for a total of 2.25in.
Thanks,
Alvin

[alvinsmith75]

Thanks for the support guys. The boat is awesome I just made a mistake adjusting it when I got started and am repairing it the only way I know how:)
Alvin

[Raydee]

The stock drive system sounds like a replica of the Speedmaster system where the stuffing tube runs straight through the strut and then there is a brass bushing that the stub runs through. Am I right?? If that is the case that system works real well, I run that on all my hulls except my DF 33" mono that has a Stinger drive.

[Grimracer]

Alvin

Total Shaft Lenght 13.5"
1 7/16" from the taper of the dog to the solder joint.

More important is.. Give yourself about 7/8" to one inch from the drive dog to the end of the stub for just about prop hub lenght.

Grim

[Grimracer]

Raydee.. yes.. and as it goes I do this on my stinger struts too.

Grim

[Raydee]

Mike, now that I think about it my Speedmaster Stinger uses the same setup

[Jeff Wohlt]

Okay, well it sounds like the bushing is replaceable...I do not say it is a bad system...basically a doube tube with a smaller brass insert to fit the shaft. Nothing wrong with that.

All I am offering is an easier set up that is still used today when you want an easy adjustable strut. Most of us run straight brass in some boats anyway but I still run the brass only so far in the nose.

I realize that you can move the strut a bit but when you do you will need to be careful because you will stress the hull bottom at the tube/hull if you do not actually bend it so there is no pressure on the seal there. You also put angle up at the coupler and flex inducing more resistance if you do not bend the stuffing tube.

Alvin, As far as the flex shaft being wobbly....you may want to re-set it if it is soldered. Heat it (torch) and break it apart and then try to get it straight. Shouod not even need more solder. It may be loctited...I do not know.

Here is what I am talking about on the teflon

http://www.geocities.com/jwohlt5362/Rear_angle.jpg

This one has a little too much open teflon but I never had any issues with it running a plett/12 cells and 642 props

And don't give me any sh-t about it being pink...it is red but came out pink when I shot it on the camera.

[Steven Vaccaro]

WHY would Mike and AQ design a system that can't be adjusted within the necessary range to get the boat right??? (THEY WOULDN'T!! )

Darin don't take this as a bash to you or Grim, but arnt you the guy who posted the areas to fix on the SuperVee? Wasn't one of those areas the adjustable strut that cant be adjusted very much?

Grim I know its been mentioned before, but I have to say it again. Thanks for bringing boats like these to the market. Its totally changed the way we fe boaters think about rtr boats. Keep up the good work. Oh and if your looking for an idea for the next boat, I'm begging for a 28-29" cat!!!!

[Darin Jordan]

Darin don't take this as a bash to you or Grim, but arnt you the guy who posted the areas to fix on the SuperVee? Wasn't one of those areas the adjustable strut that cant be adjusted very much?

EXACTLY... I AM the guy that did that... but ask yourself this... WAS it a "FIX"???

Do you know how many strut adjustements I've done on my SV27 since that time??? NONE! Haven't touched it, and I've won a TON of races with it...

I didn't know then as much as I think I know now, and now I realize that there wasn't any need to change that configuration. It works fine.

I'm not saying NOT to change it... If you want to, by all means... but it's NOT necessary... Again, if you need THAT much adjustment, I think you're working on the wrong part of the boat... This isn't where the big gains are going to be... and the fine tuning wouldn't require much movement at all...

[Steven Vaccaro]

[quote=Darin Jordan;66207]EXACTLY... I AM the guy that did that... but ask yourself this... WAS it a "FIX"???

Do you know how many strut adjustements I've done on my SV27 since that time??? NONE! Haven't touched it, and I've won a TON of races with it...

I didn't know then as much as I think I know now, and now I realize that there wasn't any need to change that configuration. It works fine.
quote]


Since there is no need for the adjustments in your strut and driveshaft in your SV you are more than welcome to send the modified ones back to me for an exchange if you would like to go back to bone stock. I for one will stick with my changes in my sv's. Now this is not any beef with the SV, its just the way I prefer it. Different strokes for different folks!

[Grimracer]

Steven.

Thanks for the good words, We are working hard to bring you guys the FASTEST and best designed RC boats money can buy..

I declare form this day forward.. the UL-1 is not just an RTR.. but a full blown Full Competition Model ..

So.. join with me.. the UL-1 is a Full Competition Model .. RTR is just that.. nothing more.. it’s what the Other Guys Sell….. with your support we can do MUCH BETTER.

..Full Competition Model
..Full Competition Model
..Full Competition Model

Grimracer




... CAT... hum.............MEEEEOW.....

[Doug Smock]

Man, it's a good thing Alvin isn't thin skinned.

[Darin Jordan]

OK... Back on the subject at hand... Apparently, Alvin wants to know how to set the strut to get it close...

Here's how I'd do it... Not knowing what the designed AoA is for the sponsons, I'll assume, knowing Mike and that this is a race boat, that it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-4 degrees...

I'd remove the rudder and turn fin so that the boat will sit on a flat surface. I'd then set the boat on the flat surface, and adjust the strut so that the hull was "level"... Then I'd measure the AoA and adjust the strut as required until I achieved the correct angle on the sponsons, and hence, the correct ride attitude. I'd then leave the strut neutral (no upward or downward angle) until I had a chance to run it... You'll adjust this depending on how much lift you have in your prop... Strut depth may have to be altered slightly as well, but generally, this will put you right in the ballpark.

There IS no magic dimension to get it "right"... it's all going to depend on the prop you use, how it's been modified or not, how much weight you have in your cells... how dense the water is in your area... how rough the water is.... etc...

But... this will get you really close...

Have fun!