New to theUL-1 and boating.

[SloHD]

Ouch. That is some pretty tough weeds.

[stelerzman]

Right, I'm torn on which one to get as a replacement. 2 stock or a metal one.

[Heaving Earth]

Metal

[stelerzman]

Metal

What are my options and where do I get them.

[Heaving Earth]

You can buy props here at OSE. They need to be balanced and sharpened tho.
The closest metal prop to the stock plastic one would be the octura x440 3 blade prop

[stelerzman]

Finally got the video done. Sorry about the poor quality but its all I had. Anyway, please fell free to share your suggestions, GOD knows I sure could use them.

http://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=hBvP4m6zme8&feature=vm&ns=1

[stelerzman]

Here's a better shot of the prop.Aquacraft UL-1 006.jpg

[SloHD]

Finally got the video done. Sorry about the poor quality but its all I had. Anyway, please fell free to share your suggestions, GOD knows I sure could use them.

http://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id...eature=vm&ns=1

Link brings me to my own uploads.

[stelerzman]

You can buy props here at OSE. They need to be balanced and sharpened tho.
The closest metal prop to the stock plastic one would be the octura x440 3 blade prop

Thanks, if I go with a metal prop would I have to upgrade the stock drive spring????

[stelerzman]

I think I have the link corrected. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBvP...e_gdata_player

Let me know if it works. Thanks.

[Heaving Earth]

Looks good.
If by drive spring you mean flex cable, no. In fact nothing is needed, you just put the prop on and go, but again, it needs to be balanced and sharpened

[stelerzman]

Looks good.
If by drive spring you mean flex cable, no. In fact nothing is needed, you just put the prop on and go, but again, it needs to be balanced and sharpened

Ok, great. Yes, I meant to say flex cable. The guy with the Spartan knows how to sharpen and balance, so no big deal. Thanks.

[stelerzman]

Here is my experience from last Sunday. To start off, the first 3 attempts at getting the boat up on plane resulted in nose diving. I pulled the boat and adjusted the strut up all the way. I tried it 2 more times with no luck. A friend suggested that I add some weight to the rear of the boat so I taped a set of allen wrenches to the tube. I'm guessing about 5 or 6 oz of weight. After I pulled the boat out of the weeds, that I had to muscle through just to reach it, I added the weigh and tried again.
That's were I was able to get up on plane. I was very happy at that point considering the prop was mangled. Anyway, I have some props coming in and now I need to know what do I have to do to the boat to get it on plane without the added weight in the back.

[BHChieftain]

Here is my experience from last Sunday. To start off, the first 3 attempts at getting the boat up on plane resulted in nose diving. I pulled the boat and adjusted the strut up all the way. I tried it 2 more times with no luck. A friend suggested that I add some weight to the rear of the boat so I taped a set of allen wrenches to the tube. I'm guessing about 5 or 6 oz of weight. After I pulled the boat out of the weeds, that I had to muscle through just to reach it, I added the weigh and tried again.
That's were I was able to get up on plane. I was very happy at that point considering the prop was mangled. Anyway, I have some props coming in and now I need to know what do I have to do to the boat to get it on plane without the added weight in the back.

Hi,
Adding weight to the tail of the boat is not the right idea-- normally folks add weight to the nose--- the tail needs to lift and hover above the water when on plane, suspended by the prop-- when running only the sponsons should be touching the water. If the boat is going "WAH WAH WAH" and you don't see a constant spray of the rooster tail, that tells you the rear of the boat is bouncing on the water which is a no-no for hydros.

Take out the weight and try again-- this time, give it a quick blip which will push the nose under a little, and as the nose starts to pop back up, GUN IT FULL THROTTLE. You can't baby the boat onto plane, you have to gun it. Sounds scary but it works... once you are on plane, then you can slow down if you need to. This all assumes you have the strut set up in a usable position.

On the prop-- beryllium copper is best, but if you don't have someone who can s/b for you (note, beryllium copper is extremely toxic in particulate form, so you really need safety gear and a respirator to sharpen them), you can also go the alum. CNC route, or the graupner carbon filled props which are pretty good and don't need to be sharpened and balanced.

Here's a video of me starting up my hydro to give you and idea:

FYI, this boat has the exact same power system as yours-- UL1 motor, aquacraft 60A ESC, 4S1P. I'm using an x442 in this video as my racing prop but that gets a bit hot for sports running-- for sports running with longer runtimes I go down to an m440 (2 blade).

Chief

[stelerzman]

Thanks for the info Chief, did you watch the video I posted? There's a link a few posts up.
Also, I don't see a link to your video, I'd really like to see it. I wasn't sure if I could put a 2 blade prop on the UL-1.