ul1setup and prop tuning

[Jeremyfowler33]

Today was my first time driving this boat but after reading many post on here I had already upgraded to a 120a turnigy esc and set my boat up on 1 4s 5600 mah pack crossways in front of the motor. I have the battery as far forward as I can get it under the top cover my cog is around 1.5 inches behind the back of the pontoons. I'm running my stock prop at 7/8 dep and 1 degree down with air dam. With all that being said I had a accident today where my flex shaft broke off and I lost the whole end of the prop so I figured it was time to upgrade. I ordered upgraded flex shaft, bushing , grim 4057. What do you think ill need to do to get me close to a good starting point on my prop depth and is there something else I can do to settle the chine walking down? I also want to know what do you do to set up your turning fin to keep your boat more stable in the corners????? Any help is appreciated I've looked all over this forum for this info including the stickies and no luck please help! Thanks Jeremy

[thaynes]

With the set up you've listed...to get on plane with that prop..start prop depths at 1 1/8 in. - 1 1/4 in. and see what works.

[Heaving Earth]

With 40/57 you'll see 50, but that prop NEEDS to be balanced and sharpened, and it's a really tough one to do. Good luck!

[Jeremyfowler33]

Ha ha! Great I'm a complete newbie to boats and don't have a ballancer I guess I better order one of them and see if I can do this. Can someone show me a picture of a sharpened prop up close for reference please, thanks

[Heaving Earth]

I ran that prop with my strut all the way up. Mainly people bury the prop when the prop isn't b/s nice, to get it to hook up.
As far as chine walk, you can try adding weight in the sponsons, cut an access hole and add weight. As far as turning, as with any hydro, keep the throttle pinned. Slowing down in the corners only makes sloppy cornering

[Heaving Earth]

I just did one last night, I'll post some pics shortly for you

[Jeremyfowler33]

Thanks I just watched some youtube video that helps a little, do you detounge these props?

[Heaving Earth]

Here it's hard to get good photos, but you should file the rear trailing edges flat.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1371392471.055502.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1371392482.547253.jpg

[Heaving Earth]

No these ones already have no tongue

[Jeremyfowler33]

Are both of these pics finished pictures?

[Heaving Earth]

Well, 90%. I will end up cleaning it up a bit with fine sandpaper, but for the most part yeah. Just want to run it today.
The photos of course don't show the most important thing, that's the thinning of each blade over a large area of the blade. It's not about just making the edges sharp, it's about getting that sharp edge to have a slow, gradual transition into the blade. This one has titanium in it, it's like trying to sand a toilet! Good lord it's hard

[Jeremyfowler33]

I'm excited I'd like to see a little more speed out of my boat for sure but what kind of temps do you get out of your boat? I tossed my boat and ran for about 6 minutes yesterday wide open and was about 120 by the time I got it out

[Heaving Earth]

The 40/57 is gonna have higher temps, maybe 130 after 5-6 minutes. No biggie.
You will see a dramatic increase in speed. These props will cavitate like crazy for about 3-4 seconds, then when they hook up, hold on, cause its gonna rip! If it doesn't catch you haven't done the b/s good enough. You could try lowering the strut in this case, but that's just a band aid for an inadequate b/s job

[Jeremyfowler33]

Thanks I'm going to try to do the job slow and take off material as slow as I can to get the right shape. Should I check my shape with putty so that I get the same shape on every blade?

[Heaving Earth]

I don't. Trust me you won't have any luck bending these blades even if you wanted to