not planing

[eleblanc]

Hi all, new to forum.

Just got my UL-1, once my lipos 3500 25c where charge i headed to the river close by.

Did not change anything on the boat except to L40x57 prop.

To my surprise it would not plan out of the water. What could cause the drag?

Thank you

[dana]

The prop needs to be balanced and sharpened, other than that you can try moving the strut down in 1/8 increments until it hooks up

[eleblanc]

What would be proper method to balance and sharpen. By strut you mean the part that is holding the prop drive tube?

[Diesel6401]

The L40x57/3 is tricky. It has to be razor sharp and well balanced if not it will struggle to get the boat on plane, once on plane however its a wicked prop and my favorite for the ul1. Sharpen & Balance the prop, also try hand launching the boat, I perfer to sidearm it, and right as the boat hits the water floor the throttle. Another method is a quick tap of the throttle and the boat should kinda lunge forward and slight sub-marine, once it bounce back floor the throttle again.

Also get some better lipos, 3500 25c isn't enough juice... go 5000mah 30C (or higher). The more amps your batteries can produce the better.

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[eleblanc]

Ok i will put back original prop for now.

[Diesel6401]

Ok i will put back original prop for now.

Try a CF42. Better performance than the stock prop. Try that until you get your 40x57/3 ready to go.

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[eleblanc]

Would 40C be ok

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-2s1p-hardcase-direct.html

[Diesel6401]

Would 40C be ok

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...se-direct.html

40c is great, but don't use hardcases.
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[eleblanc]

You mean this prop?

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=grp-2317.42

Try a CF42. Better performance than the stock prop. Try that until you get your 40x57/3 ready to go.

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[clarkm]

40c is great, but don't use hardcases.
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I'm also new what is wrong with hard cases?

[Diesel6401]

You mean this prop?

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=grp-2317.42

Yup that's her, the CF45 is also nice and would work just fine. Grab 1 of each, and see what you like. Not the greatest, but way better then the stock. I use them for new boats and testing stuff out. Not bad to have around. I have 40mm thru 48mm just to keep in the ole' prop box.

I'm also new what is wrong with hard cases?

* Excessive weight (which isn't always a bad thing, but not always a good thing. Depends on application)
* Excessive heat, which is a HUGE reason. Hardcase lipos will run much hotter then softcase lipos
* If they get wet or submerged no easy way to dry them out. They're meant for "on/off road use" and should be kept their.



- For those new to boating, but not new to r/c take everything you know about r/c and throw the majority of it out the window. What works on cars, helis and planes typcially fails big time in boating. Complete Different animal, and I own cars, boats, planes and helis.. just a little fyi.

[RogerA]

Hi

I am also new to R/C Boats.

I am trying the Grimracer 40x57 prop, I've thinned, sharpened and balanced it.

The batteries are 5000 30C venom (recommended by the hobby shop sales guy ) with the connectors changed to 5.5 bullets - after reading the thread above, I now have OSE HYPERION G3 EX 5000 MAH 2S 7.4V 45C/90C LIPOLY PACK on order, hopefully they will be here in the next couple of days.

The first time I ran the UL-1 with the stock strut settings I could not get it to plane at all.
I dropped the strut until the top of the strut was level with the mounting bracket, and the strut is vertical.
On the next run it would eventually get up on plane, usually after hitting a ripple in the water, once on plane it was unstable, as soon as it hit any ripple at all it start bouncing from one sponsor to the other, at times the boat was knife edge to the water.
I added a strip of plastic between the sponsons and it now sticks to the water a lot better, however it will still flip if it crosses its own wake in a turn.

So, the problem I am left with is how to get it to plane from a standing start, I tried the suggestion of rocking the the boat and then hitting the throttle as the nose comes up but that didn't help.

I would appreciate any suggestions for a strut settings to get me started, I'm just stabbing in the dark at the moment.

Thanks in advance

Roger

p.s. the first time I put the UL-1 in the water, stock settings, stock prop, it ran really well, completely controllable, for 4 minutes, at which point it just died.
I found that one of the Venom battery leads had come out of the deans connector, after I replaced all the connectors with 5.5. bullets the motor would twitch when I moved the throttle but that was all.
Like an idiot I kept trying to get the motor to run and poof - the esc fried - I replaced the esc but the problem was still there, so I replaced the motor and all was well.
Is it likely that the battery wire coming loose (presumably due to faulty soldering) was the cause of the motor failing?
Replacing $150 in parts after 4 minutes of run time was not a good start.

[Fluid]

The main problem you guys are having with getting the UL-1 up on plane is using the "wrong" prop. The stock prop is a low-lift design and balances the lift at both ends of the boat when starting out. Most metal hydro props have more lift (except the X-series) and will try to lift the transom and bury the bow on startup. Running the prop deep makes the problem worse, as does a forward CG. But usually you can develop a technique to get the boat up, often succeeding or failing depend on on the amount of throttle used. More often that not, don't be afraid to use more throttle to get the boat up. And don't be afraid to use lifting props, just be aware that they can make it harder to get the boat up.


Sometimes the motor fails to run and the owner thinks it has gone bad and tosses it. But sometimes the problem is just due to faulty solder joints on the motor plugs - the stock plugs are a weak point with high resistance and get real hot, melting the factory solder job. Often just by re-soldering them the problem goes away and the motor runs fine.

.

[RogerA]

Fluid - thanks for the advice
I put the strut back to 1" and level, put the stock prop back on and tried again, still would not plane.
I took the air dam off and it immediatley came up on plane.
I cut the air dam down to 1/4", and back to square one, it refused to plane.
I dropped the strut 1/8" and it still would not plane, I was just about to give up when I found the if I turn the rudder hard right as I hit the throttle it jumped right up on plane.

Then I was back to unstable, even with the stock prop, the boat did a 360 in the air and landed right side up.
It immediately died.
There we no signs of any problem, no smoke, no open connectors, no water ingress.

Now when I connect the batteries, the reciever light comes on, but the ESC doesn't beep, if I press the throttle the motor just stutters.
Any idea what the issue could be now?? Has ANOTHER esc fried?

Also, from day one, when I pull the prop shaft to grease it, the strut bearing comes out with the shaft, it's a very loose fit in the strut and looks like it's been rotating, is this normal?
I bought a Kintec replacement, but that's the opposite, a very tight fit, I would have to use a hammer to bang it in (which I have not done).

[Heaving Earth]

The bushing should slide in and out. The kintec replacement needs to be sanded with some fine grit paper till it slide in and out nicely.