UL-1 Need Help

[Mike389]

I have a stock UL-1 with Hyperion batteries 5000. The boat will run once good, next time will barely go. Someone told me to run a seperate small 6v pack to power the reciever and disconect the red or center wire to the esc at the reciever.
Ran the boat again after this change and still the same problem.

Any help please.

When it runs good it flies. When it runs bad it will not even get up on plane.

[m4a1usr]

Please describe your setup in a bit more detail? It sounds like a connector issue to me but there is not enough details to settle on that subject. What size bullets you running? Pics may help too. BTW, welcome to the forum!

John

[Grimracer]

sounds like a motor connector.. check and re-solder if needed

Grim

[detox]

Resolder? Shouldn't he replace with "beefier" bullet motor connectors. The thin oem connectors heat up too easily causing them to become unsoldered.

I wonder if the new Motley Crew has this same OLD problem?

[egneg]

I haven't had any problems with the oem motor connectors other than a bad solder joint and the motor cogging was very bad all the time once it came loose in the shrink.

[Mike389]

Thanks for the help. I will check all the solder joints and I bought three sets of castle bullet connectors today. As far as my setup: Stock motor and esc. I bought and installed a better motor cooling jacket, octura coupler, stronger cable form Offshore. Looked through the setup tips on here and used that infor to set my strut. Octura 1940 prop. The first day i had it out it ran fantastic. Then it started running slow, then quiting for no reason. Sunday I ran three sets of batteries. First set it ran great 4200. Second set would not get up on plane 5000. Third set my good Hyperions 5000, no plane and just stopping for no reason. Is it a good idea to run the receiver on a seperate 6v pack and disconect the red esc wire, or is just a waste?

[dana]

you shouldnt need to run a seperate reciever pack with the ul-1 stock setup.

[Mike389]

While soldering in the new 4mm bullets, I noticed something in the motor. See attached picture. I'm not sure if it is something to worry about. Also is a picture of the setup and my batteries.DSCN1464.jpgDSCN1465.jpgDSCN1466.jpg

[m4a1usr]

The first picture, looking thru the end bell at a heat shrink covered connection, is nothing to worry about. That appears normal. Did you get a chance to complete the soldering of the motor and esc leads? Thats most likely where your connectivity problem is but you are using Deans on your batteries. They are known to cause problems. Change all of your connectors. Even your batteries. 4mm bullets are better then any Deans connectors. But if your making connector changes on your batteries go to 5.5mm bullets at least. I bet you find out after getting rid of the Deans that your problem suddenly disappears.

John

[ilovethis]

john. if i wanted to change my motor to a leopard 4074 what would i put around it (meaning) the setup

[ilovethis]

im running a stock ul-1

[m4a1usr]

john. if i wanted to change my motor to a leopard 4074 what would i put around it (meaning) the setup

Theres a fairly large selection of combos/choices should you decide to upgrade to components over the stock items. Before you decide to spend money adding new goodies consider that even with the stock motor/ESC you can push your boat to very respectable speeds. Been done before and is well documented here on OSE. I can 100% endorse the 4074 motor in the UL1. It fits this hull perectly. But you can make the boat go well into the 50's and higher just by adding better connectors, a better prop and adjusting the hardware as described in the UL1 forum. I'm not trying to talk you out of adding the best of the best to make the hull scream, just to consider that even with the basic motor and ESC you can go pretty darn fast.

John

[ilovethis]

my motor connectors are 4mm bullets but my esc connectors are deans should i chang them to bullets to sorry but im a novice here

[ilovethis]

and what are the best battery's for the stock setup

[tlandauer]

I never looked into the endbell in my motor, now seeing your picture i noticed something inside thru the hole in the bottom (6 o'clock position) I checked mine and it seems to be there too, but a bit more "smooth" than your picture. Anyone can tell me if this is a epoxy to hold the wires inside or insulation for the soldered joint?