Orange Boat 009.jpgThought I'd show you guys what I finally got done. I had a local guy duplicate the UL1 rudder to spec, but added a second water pickup. Now I can test the cooling to the motor and ESC separately with very lttle added drag. Boat was totaled, so I glassed the seams, foam filled the inside, made an aluminum turn fin backing plate, but epoxied it to the outside and bolted it through to the stock plate inside. The blue one was also a total, just painted it...Norm
Dual Pickups have been achived !
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Just an observation, make sure you are leaving a 3/16 gap between the drive dog and the strut. It looks like it's pushed up to the strut in your first picture.[ATTACH]19567[/ATTACH]Thought I'd show you guys what I finally got done. I had a local guy duplicate the UL1 rudder to spec, but added a second water pickup. Now I can test the cooling to the motor and ESC separately with very lttle added drag. Boat was totaled, so I glassed the seams, foam filled the inside, made an aluminum turn fin backing plate, but epoxied it to the outside and bolted it through to the stock plate inside. The blue one was also a total, just painted it...Norm
Later
BallComment
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Good job! I know you looked hard to get this done.
Report how well the water flow is when you can.Comment
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Thanks Jeff, It did take a while......I was trying to figure out how to report amount of water is actually picking up. I'm a little concerned that the upper pickup may be a little high. I was thinking about rigging the rudder onto a boat that has thru-hull pickups to cool a stock motor and ESC, and have the rudder hoses just dump water into containers #1 and #2 in the boat and measure the water...Comment
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Ball, Thanks for heads up on the drive dog. I'm running a Wholts wire drive with a thrust bearing against the 7XL motor shaft. I didn't think that the slack was so critical with such a tight setup. I thought, "what is going to push forward where I actually need a gap at the drive dog and strut?" Bad Assumption?Comment
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Your right,Ball, Thanks for heads up on the drive dog. I'm running a Wholts wire drive with a thrust bearing against the 7XL motor shaft. I didn't think that the slack was so critical with such a tight setup. I thought, "what is going to push forward where I actually need a gap at the drive dog and strut?" Bad Assumption?
Since your running a wire drive, it's not that important.
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Thanks Ball, had me second guessing myself.....Well, I was going to report the bad news, but haven't taken any pics yet...but here goes...
UL1 screamed for about 1 minute, then the magic smoke.....Took it back to the bench and found that the neg lead (factory soldered) had broken off and shorted out. made a mess, just finished painting this boat. I was pissed off when I saw the factory joint let go, but I had an eagle tree data logger in it at the time, so when I get a chance, I'll upload data to find out what happened....Comment
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You said 7XL?
oh man, that thing will fly!.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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