MHZ Micro Fountain

[BlkY2k]

Thanks to Roadrashracing and Diegoboy I recently aquired my first boat. It came with the hull and hardware. Also a Neu 1105/3y 3300 kv coupled to a wire drive. I have a Hitec Agressor tx - rx I plan to use with it. My questions are on the esc, batterys, and prop. I was thinking a Seaking 35a for the esc and maybe a x427 prop to start. But I have no idea on batterys. I've been spending a lot of time reading thread after thread trying to absorb all the info on here , sometimes it runs together. Lol. I'll have to pickup a micro server too and then charger and balancer and on an on. Any advise would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[Namba328]

Thanks to Roadrashracing and Diegoboy I recently aquired my first boat. It came with the hull and hardware. Also a Neu 1105/3y 3300 kv coupled to a wire drive. I have a Hitec Agressor tx - rx I plan to use with it. My questions are on the esc, batterys, and prop. I was thinking a Seaking 35a for the esc and maybe a x427 prop to start. But I have no idea on batterys. I've been spending a lot of time reading thread after thread trying to absorb all the info on here , sometimes it runs together. Lol. I'll have to pickup a micro server too and then charger and balancer and on an on. Any advise would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Some may say the seaking 35 is a great esc to go with but that neu pulls 400w, or around 44-46amps of power surge and from what I know I haven't seen any surge or burst amp rating for the seaking 35amp esc's so id be skeptical unless someone has that rating for you. Id run it on 2s lipos like 2000mah or so and atleast 20c. I run Venom's 2s 2000mah 20c packs in my mini bolt and my bby micro patriot and they run sweet and surprisingly you get a ton of runtime. My bby micro patriot had a mystery 3000kv outrunner in it but now ive got a 4200kv inrunner in it and it screams on 2s. My mini bolt has a 4800 or so kv inrunner 1/18th scale car motor and it screams too. I run a 30amp mystery esc in both and haven't had any problems, knock on wood. But I think your micro fountain with a seaking 35 amp esc and that nue will be very fast on 2s and if u dare run it on 3s id suggest a higher amp esc. Also try a detounged x430 or x632.


These are the packs I run:

http://www.venom-group.com/20C-2S-2000mah-7-4v-LiPO-UNI.html?sc=9&category=19506

id recommend these packs as options:

http://www.venom-group.com/25C-2S-3300mah-7-4v-LiPO-Hrdcase-Car-UNI.html?sc=9&category=19506

http://www.venom-group.com/20C-2S-3200mah-7-4v-LiPO-Hardcse-Car-UNI.html?sc=9&category=19506

crazy options:

http://www.venom-group.com/20C-3S-1300mah-11-1v-LiPO-UNI.html?sc=9&category=19506

http://www.venom-group.com/20C-3S-2100mah-11-1v-LiPO-UNI.html?sc=9&category=19506

http://www.venom-group.com/20C-3S-3200mah-11-1v-LiPO-UNI.html?sc=9&category=19506

[BlkY2k]

Thanks Namba, I had wondered if 35a might be border line from what I have read. Your correct the Neu pulls 200 continuous and 400 surge with a max of 18v. Id rather go bigger than take a chance on letting out that magic smoke. I've ran multiple searches and I can't find any info on this hull other than what's on Mhz and the giveaway thread. I think with the right combo it should rip. Thanks.

[larryrose11]

The Seaking 35 will work, but it is border line. I have pushed that ESC hard with no problems, but I had great cooling.
I had that same series motor in a rigger I once had. I used a Seaking 60A on 3s and even 4s for a SAW runs, ran great. It is a seriously underrated motor. On 4s it took my 16 inch Starship rigger near 60!
Go with something larger, 45A - 60A are common.

As for the prop, small hulls hat a limit on prop diameter. anything more and the boat becomes unstable. When I was first starting, the prop cost was a a bit intimidating, and I was breaking stuff.
Why no go with the cheapo plastic Octura ones? I have had good luck with these.
You can mod them with no worries, like cutting down the diameter and the tongue on the Octura y534 plastic, and get a handle on balancing too
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Plastic+Series

As far a battery is concerned, a 3 cell (3s), about 2000 mAh, 30C (discharge amp rating ) or more will be fine.

Attach the esc and battery with Velcro so you can move things around to get a good balance.

[larryrose11]

I just found the boat you got from Diegoboy. That is a nice looking boat!!
You will want to get a water jacket for that motor, which can be a pain. Your motor case is 28.95mm. Just get something that will fit, and use silicone around the ends to seal the jacket to the motor.
This one will work
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=gnd-4194

[BlkY2k]

I don't have a problem with the plastic props on fact it looks like most of the micros and minis in here are running them. I was just looking at that cooler this morning, its the only one I've found for this size case. Leopard has one for a 29mm dia. but I believe it to long. I'll start getting parts together after the new year and start playing with the layout, its awful tight in there. I love the lines on the fountain but with that long bow it pushes everything back. 3s huh, you mean single or pair?

[larryrose11]

A single 3s, 2000 mAh, 30C battery will be fine. You will want to start with a small prop on 3S!
You will have to move things around to get the balance right. Getting the balances it important to getting the boat to ride well. Talk to members here about what the balance point is for this hull.
Any ESC you choose will weigh less than the battery, so it will be mounted closer to the edge. The battery will likely be mounted as close to the center as you can on the opposite side of the ESC.
Another option for battery mounting is to use blocks of foam, both rigid and soft) to hold things in place.
Here is what I have done to a similar boat, the Mini Rio.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=403

[Namba328]

blk you seriously want to run metal props. Its all i run due to they plastics when under alot of rpm's they tend to flex and ive had them flatten out which sucks. Plus any hard stick can break them. And i would recomend a seaking 60amp esc like larry said to do. Also a x430 detounged runs sweet on almost all micro monos. Mine love it and it also loves a x632 but the one ive got has been heavily cut on so try a metal x430 detounged and it should run sweet on 2s and 3s as long as you have a good cooling system.

[BlkY2k]

Sorry guys, had to do the grandpa thing there for a couple days. Ok so, 3s 2000 mah 30c batterys any particular brand I know that's a can of worms. I'll look into props both plastic and brass. Everything I've read has suggested the prop should be in the 29 to 30mm size so the x427 OS right there. 60 amp esc and water cooling. I may have to do some kind of removeable tray to get the battery in the center but. I'll look into that. I'm need to pull the driveline out, the motor needs connectors. Should I go deans or bullets ?

[Namba328]

deans for the battery and bullets for the motor. and start with a x427 and move up. I bet a good x430 with a lil cup would do the trick but either way this lil bugger will be fast.

[NativePaul]

It depends how much run time you want, personally I would run a 1800-2000mah 3s Lipo (I use Hyperion 3s 1800mAh 35C, which is a good chunk lighter than high C 2000s) with an X427 prop which should give you around 6 minutes run time at about 30mph, average amp draw will be about 20A and peak on hole shot about double that. I don't know the Seaking 35 itself, as I am not generally a fan of Chinese ESCs but I would guess that it is suitable, I ran a Castle Phoenix 35A ESC for years with no watercooling on a similar setup, I recently upgraded to an Ice 50A (no watercooling again) as I wanted datalogging, but the old 35A still works fine. Both ESCs are only warm after a run and both cope well with a V932 for SAW type runs and an X632 for 6 lap sprint type runs though both do heat up more with the bigger props especially the sprint one as it lasts longer, if I was predominantly sprinting I would probably go for a 50A+ ESC and watercool it.

Those Silicone jackets work pretty well but can develop leaks so I would advise that you glue it on with silicone sealant.

[BlkY2k]

Hey guys, I got a chance to play around with the boat yesterday and I pulled the drivetrain out. When I spin the motor should it spin smooth? This almost acts like there are detents every few degrees that it snaps into. I've never seen a electric motor act like this.

[Namba328]

that normally means its a tight fit and the magnets are strong. One of my ul-1 motors is the same way but it runs like a champ.

[BlkY2k]

Thank tom, makes sense now that you say it. I was worried never saw a motor act like that.

[Namba328]

yea it normally means the rotor is large and is real close to the magnets making it clunk like a brushed motor would lol.