15" Small Bolt micro hydro

[martin]

Thats the exact point i was making, I called it lazy. This is one big downside to this design where you have to keep removing the strut & loose your settings, So it possibly dosnt get removed as aften as it needs for greasing. I have friends that have this type & they leave the shaft in longer than they should where as the simple pull out ones the tend to grease more often because its simpler to do with less hassle re setting up again. Thanks Martin.

[igottalongone]

Whatever man, you're clearly just bored and trying to start fights.

I'd like to see what you're using to measure 1.85mm though, 0.05mm is about 2 thousandths of an inch. How exactly are you measuring that accurately with the boat together?

Look at it this way... What's the harm in running more of a gap, absolutely nothing. What's the harm in not running enough gap, snapped cables.

Also, since you're using red loctite which isn't a permanent glue, there's a chance that the cable is still pulling out of the stub a tiny bit under load, which negates the need for a gap at all.

Square drive stubs are designed to use a thrust washer or teflon washer at the drive dog to carry the load when the prop pushes the drive dog into the strut and allow the cable to shrink as needed unimpeded.

What motor are you running in your mini rigger that puts out 800w, is it a 20mm can? The smallest reasonably priced (not lehner, etc) motor I've been able to find that puts out that kind of power is a leopard 2845, but if I can get a 20mm can motor that puts out that much power I can drop it into my mini rigger tub easily.

As far as me starting fights, YOU made the first rude comment in our exchange, so blo me!
p.s.
I took a look at your you-tube videos, to see your RC prowess in action...
LMFAO!!!

Keep up the great work...

[igottalongone]

Just wondering fellers...
Anyone gonna help out the guy who originaly asked the question???
I attempted to help the man install his cable correctly, but the thread was then taken over with this stupid shyte...
CaptPBJ is at home right now digging his flex cable out of the stuffing tube with a screwdriver...
Well Capt, I'll shut up now and leave you to the pro's...
Ron

[Basstronics]

Mine was jammed in the square end also. The square end is ground by hand and isnt fully square. I did it a favor by cleaning it up with my dremel tool and a cut off disk. However in the end I decided to replace it.

[igottalongone]

Actually, if the cable was getting stuck in the prop shaft, he wouldn't have a problem, he would have it installed correctly...
But I won't go there again... lol..

The Captains problem was, when he removes the strut, there is not enough cable sticking out to grab ahold of.. So his only option was to use a screwdriver to poke the cable down the stuffing tube at the coupler....

[Rumdog]

How about just replacing it with a standard flex? .098 will be perfect. Who the hell wants to pull the strut to grease every time? You could also go wire drive.

[wparsons]

As far as me starting fights, YOU made the first rude comment in our exchange, so blo me!
p.s.
I took a look at your you-tube videos, to see your RC prowess in action...
LMFAO!!!

Keep up the great work...

Good to see you're still carrying on...

I could care less about your approval, which is why I haven't bothered uploading videos of most of my boats/planes/trucks/helis. I know that I know what I'm doing, and don't need to get into a pissing match to prove it.

Back on topic yet again, small pliers or tweezers work wonders for getting the flex shaft out. At the very worst you can take the coupler off the motor to push the flex further down the stuffing tube.

I cut about 1/4" off my stuffing tube to give the strut more room for adjustment, which also exposed more of the flex when I pull the strut off.

I'll be making a wire drive for it when I get any time to work on it so I don't have to go through all this trouble every time I need to grease the flex.

[Basstronics]

I purchased a wire drive for mine. The problem I seemed to notice was to much bend in it- making it hard to turn.

If the flex is stuck in the coupler grab it with pliers and pull it out. Get the coupler off the motor- remove the set screws. File the coupler where the set screws are- typical culprit of such things.

While your at it take the dremel and a cut off and sand the square end so it floats good inside the female square end.

[wparsons]

^^ Do you remember what diameter the wire was? I'm going to test fit one from another boat that's a .047 wire when I get a chance.

[Basstronics]

.062

[wparsons]

I'll try the thinner wire with a plastic prop first :D

[CaptPJB]

Thanks for all the info guys did not mean to stir things up. Lots of good info came out of the posts though and I learnt a lot. I won't stir things up again by saying which method I am going to use but lets say I have choices.
One of the things that made my life difficult was when I went to loosen the grub screw on the motor end it stripped but the flex end undid OK. hence I was trying to push the flex out with screwdriver/plier assist.

Now I guess I will have to find a small bit to drill out the stripped grub screw. Apart from making life more difficult to get the flex out it is holding fine so may leave repairs until I just have to do them and enjoy this little rocket.

Thanks again for the help
Peter

[wparsons]

You might be able to get the grub screw out by using a tight fitting torx bit, but there's no guarantee of that working.

[martin]

I had the same problem getting the allen grub screws out of the coupling all be it on a Tenshock mini eco which has a 2mm wire drive. The motor shaft screw came undone ok but the shaft one wouldnt undo without slipping in the hexagon. The keys i had were 1.5mm .058" so thought they might be 1/16".062"so bought a set of a/f size wrenches. used the 1/16" wrench & guess what it slipped the same, When i measured the 1/16" wrench it measures the same size as the 1.5mm. Whether they now use the same size wrenches for both these sizes because their very close i dont know. I managed to find a wrench out of many i had of this size that was new & had a bit of a burr on the end from manufacture so was a couple of thou bigger right at the tip which didnt slip & undone it. Thanks Martin.

[SweetAccord]

After getting this boat from KH and reading all the threads on this boat I can see where some decided to change it's setup. After seeing how it's been designed, I do see how there is much drag in the driveline. I decided to copy the Tenshock design and put a bearing in the strut instead of the bushing. Wow what a difference! It also has a tighter seal so water should have a harder time to enter also. Also I'm stepping down the drive line from the stock 3.18mm flexdrive to a 2.37mm one with keeping the 1/8 prop shaft which is the same as the stock one. I took a few hours to carefully drill out (by hand) the stock bushing and bore it out to accept a 1/4" bearing. Sanded with 1000 grit sand paper to get a smooth inside diameter until the bearing was able to be (fimly) pressed in. You can get these bearings at the LHS.