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Your flex cable is not attached to the prop shaft???
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I think most that have that design shaft dont like them & change them for one piece one where you just pull out without touching the strut. As far as what ive seen all the Hor boats use that design. Thanks Martin.Comment
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If not, you will want to clean both the prop shaft and cable end with brake clean, or carb cleaner.. getting off any grease, etc... Then you attach the flex to the prop shaft with "red" loc-tite...
RonComment
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They use a separate stub shaft in the strut that has a step on it & is put in from the front of the strut, So if any thing comes loose or breaks you dont loose your shaft, prop ect, Theirs a square hole in the end of the stub shaft to witch the end of the flex has 4 flats ground so the square end of the flex goes into the square hole in the stub shaft. Thanks Martin.Comment
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Im switching mine over to .098 cable, 1/8" prop shaft with a set screw coupler.42" Osprey, 32" Pursuit, 26" Bling Rocket (rescue), Blizzard Rigger, JAE 21FE rigger, Hobby King rigger (RIP)Comment
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Why would the drive side with the flats need to be loctited into place?
The contraction the cable makes is the slip offered with such a joint. I guess you could allow space behind the drive dog here also- but I dont think that is the designs intent.
Also "red" loctite? Thats the permanent threadlocker stuff. I tried that on a wire drive and it was instant fail. I switched to the right stuff, now its like steel!42" Osprey, 32" Pursuit, 26" Bling Rocket (rescue), Blizzard Rigger, JAE 21FE rigger, Hobby King rigger (RIP)Comment
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You definitely don't want to glue/solder/weld the stub to the flex on a setup like this. There's no way to leave enough play between the drive dog and strut to allow room for the flex shaft to shrink under load.
Plus, the whole benefit to a one piece flex/stub is that you don't have to pull the strut off to remove it, but in this case you still would.
The best bet is to replace the flex and stub with a new one (or wire drive), it'll only be like $15 with a coupler anyway.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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Wrong... I have one in my hand right now, there is a good 2mm (more than enough) for cable shrink... I checked my Tenshock rigger as well, same exactly thing...
This type of system (stepped prop shaft) requires the strut be removed no matter if you affix the cable correctly or not...
Anyone who wants to install the cable correctly will want to red loc-tite the cable into the prop shaft... This system has been around for many years, the installation has always been the same. Either solder (harder to do correctly) or "red" loc-tite the cable to the propshaft, end of story..
Leaving a tiny (poor quality) cable loose in the hole is a great way to destroy the cable...
You also stated the "best" thing to do is replace the system... I disagree with that as well...
If I break a cable, I don't loose a prop I have a ton of work into... Not true when you switch to a wire or non-stepped cable... When you break a cable your prop goes to the bottom of the lake... Not an issue if your running $2 plastic props, I don't use $2 plastic props.. Changing it out, only makes it easier to maintain... A non-issue for myself... I'd rather keep my prop thanks... Everyone has their own opinions on this stuff, but like I said, this is an old system (octura has been doin it 30 years) and the method of installation has always been the same... We ain't breakin any ground here people...
This debate is as stupid as the water pick-up debate... I'll let my boats do the talkin instead of my typing finger...
wanna race?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Comment
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^^ 2mm isn't really enough room for cable shrink, you generally want the diameter of the stub shaft in space between the drive dog and strut.
I'd like to see your setup, on mine I had to pull the drive dog as far towards the threads as I could without taking it off the flat spot just to keep it from binding. Even now I have about 0.5 mm of space at best.
IMO, a one piece (non stepped) stub/flex is easier to maintain, and breaking a cable really isn't that big of an issue. The stock cable on this boat is WAY oversided for the power/load it's under.
As for the race, anytime :D Here's mine all stock with a plastic prop:
It's a bit faster now with the S/B x632 on it, still otherwise stock.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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"you generally want the diameter of the stub shaft in space between the drive dog and strut."
Dude! really???
You do NOT want a 1/8" between your strut and dd...
I hope your running a thrust washer, if not your cable is trying to push the rotor through the back of your motor, lol...
Like I said, everyone has their opinion...
But, I don't think you even need to know anything about RC boats to know that leaving that tiny cable free to move around inside the prop shaft is a bad idea... But whatever...
RonComment
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