wire drive

[bustitup]

do you need to grease wire drive

and is there any tricks to not loosing the whole drive wire,prop if the grub screw in the coupler loosens up?

[properchopper]

I pull my wire & use some Grimracer grease thinned with synthetic 30-50 motorcyvcle oil. This also lets me direct-inject some oil into the strut to oil the strut ball-bearings. I'm using a collet-style coupler & don't believe that I'll lose a drive wire. Jeff may chime in with some shaft-saver thoughts however. Edit : I pulled my drive after 4 runs and it was still well lubed so I think this will be my benchmark interval.

[Flying Scotsman]

Tony...you pull your wire!!!...your mother would not be proud of you

Douggie

[properchopper]

Tony...you pull your wire!!!...your mother would not be proud of you

Douggie

I had to quit after losing my tweezers and magnifying glass

[Flying Scotsman]

Interesting combination though with Grimracer grease and oil

Douggie

[Ub Hauled]

IMO, it'll depend on how much stuffing tube you have... I always lube the strut with a little grease/high end bicycle oil and a little bit of the high end bicycle oil on the silicone tubing at the inner end of the stuffing tube, just in case there is too much friction.
Make sure to use collet type motor coupler so there is the best grip possible.

[Jeff Wohlt]

I just use a syntheic wheel bearing grease at wally world...Pennzoil and then drops of oil down it.

For set screws ALWAYS use a thread locker. I have never had one come lose but certaily it can happen. I do check them after each run just make sure. You do not have to bear down on them either. Decent tighteness is all that is needed. Just make sure the other side hitting the round area is also tighten up on the wire.

The flat side on the wire is key.

I have collet style for 62 and 78 if you do not trust the set screw style.

I was thinking of some kind of prop gard that can run off the strut...kinda like the water tubing so if something pops it won't come out.

Forgot my glaases in the car so I am trying to write with one eye...sorry!

[egneg]

I put a 1/16th wheel collar on an .062 wire between the coupler and stuffing tube. I have had 2 break the first one the stub shaft came loose from the wire ( nothing to prevent lost prop here) and the second time the wire broke just inside the collet. I haven't had the wire break since I added the collar so your guess is as good as mine if this will help.

[Fluid]

IME you will most often lose the wire because it breaks. It is a good idea to replace the wire regularly as it will work harden and will eventually crack and fail. I can't remember ever losing or seeing one of the other club members ever losing a wire because the coupler failed to hold it. But then, we all use collets and not set screws.



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[RayR]

Jay is correct (as usual). If you use set screws on a wire drive it will fail. Using a collet style coupler works great.

All the best,

Ray

[Jeff Wohlt]

nah... I can tell you and Jay that there are far more using set screw couplers out there than collet. I know because I build them and usually send them along with orders. Are setscrew style better...no.

I do like collet style because of ease and certainly it would seem to be better for the wire...can they slip over time...yep.

I also have no idea how a wire of carbon steel would weaken....unless it is dragging somewhere and getting too hot. It is the strongest wire out there...much stonger than SS.

I have never heard people say it broke up at the coupler. At least not from a coupler issue. I have heard of them snaping at a 1/2 way point but again, this seems to be because of friction and heat. One reason I originally said to use teflon with wire. It does reduce the metal to metal. I also run one in my Campbell Shovel and it is short...after removing my teflon and running I can actually see where it is wearing at the bend...which is pretty hard bend in that hull. Wire drive is only about 7" long...if that.

Some of it is too much bend with too short of wire. They may not be for every set up. I mount my motors more forward and would prefer to have a longer wire with less bend than shorter with more bend.

I also have some that have been running the same wire for years...me included. I just do not run near as much as most of you.

People just think wire is never going to break but I have also had people give up on cables and use wire and have better luck.

Nobody talks about when cables give out....I have seen my share of ripped up cables. Cables rust from the inside out. Wipe them all you want but moisture is in the center and eating your cables as you sleep!!!

[Fluid]

nah... I can tell you and Jay that there are far more using set screw couplers out there than collet. I know because I build them and usually send them along with orders.

Hmmm, I never said that there were more people using collets, just that all the members of my club use them. But how Jeff "knows" that far more people use set screws is a puzzle, because a lot of folks make their own wire drives and buy Octura collets, bypassing Jeff's store. I really don't care who uses what, I just know what I prefer to use.

I also have no idea how a wire of carbon steel would weaken....unless it is dragging somewhere and getting too hot. It is the strongest wire out there...much stonger than SS.

Any non-spring steel can work harden if flexed enough. It has little to do with "heat" - excet the heat treatment it receives when made. Poor heat treatment, common with cheap wire, exacerbates the problem. Most of the wire I've seen break cracked between the collet and the stub shaft, seldom at the collet or at the stub. A magnifying glass showed stressed metal at the break indicative of work hardening. Add a bunch of torsion to the mix and - pop......

Some of it is too much bend with too short of wire. They may not be for every set up. I mount my motors more forward and would prefer to have a longer wire with less bend than shorter with more bend.

I certainly agree here, the longest-lasting wires I have are over 12" long. Both cable and wire have their place - I use the one best suited for the particular application.




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[Ub Hauled]

I use whatever suits my needs.
if it's less then a specific length I use flex and if the conditions are right (length and bend) I use wire.
One has to understand that he/she needs to use whatever is the best choice, don't try using just wire just because people say it's better then flex or just flex because people complain about wire, use what's best suited for your task. I always try to look around and see what people are doing, not just the pros but sometimes great ideas come from regular guys like you and me.
Well, that's my philosophy at least.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Even though I have sold around 600 drives and probably 400 couplers...all over the world. I do get some valuable input. I build mine with input from others.. I always want to know how it broke, what they are running, etc. I take it seriously because I want the best product I can produce.

What I thought I made clear was it depends on the set up. I have never had issues with wire but some do.

I also give advice to many that just want to know about them or other drives. I have been known to suggest a cable when it calls for it.

NOTE....I also sell cables, ESCs, Octura props, couplers struts, Etti, so I am not just stuck on wires.

But, your endorsement of how good wire drives are is appreciated. I am glad you run them. I always say....if Jay Turner uses them and the world speed record was broken with them then they are good enough for me!!

[tharmer]

I lube with a combination of moly grease and STP. I've found that STP really stays in the tube well.

I also polish (up to 1000 grit) the wire.

Run the stuffing box (tube) to the coupler. Leave 1/2" to 1" gap. In this gap, but a 1/16 wheel coller (no need for a flat here). this holds the shaft in the tube if the wire breaks at the coupler.

Put a chamfer in the end of the tubing that is near the coupler. This keeps the wire from getting scored by the edge of the tubing.

Align the tubing so that the wire from the coupler goes right down the middle of the tubing and doesn't touch any place. I add a special plywood former with a hole in it to align the tubing.

Set up two razor blades on a plank and balance the entire wire + Drive dog + prop.

If you get it right, which I've done on occasion, your drive will hum like a turbine with no real vibration at all. Usually there will be some point as you add throttle where the wire resonates and vibrates, but at racing RPM it will be very smooth.

I'm new to wire drives, but this works for me so far. I don't have the interest to build my own drives, so I get them from Jeff W.

-terry