Y-harness max length- ATTENTION!

[Fluid]

I have ran a Y harness with 8" on each side in a VERY high performance 10s2p setup with no issues....

Contrary to what a few may have claimed, an ETTI 150 is not a Schulze 40-160. The back EMF and ripple that a 40-160 can take may fry a lesser controller. That 'Y' harness looks terrible too, with an extra covered solder connection in each side - just more resistance and additional impedance. Actually it can only take a small increase of either to destroy an ESC that worked fine before. Do everything you can to reduce the wire lengths and the number of solder joints.

Denatured alcohol works best for cleaning out the stink IME. Acetone can soften/loosen any epoxy you used inside the boat.


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[AntronX]

Denatured alcohol is not as strong at dissolving burned mess than acetone. I remember I had to rub burned area harder with alcohol than with acetone. Did not notice acetone dissolving epoxy. Acetone is harder on the skin than alcohol - I did not wear gloves.

[DISAR]

Thank you for your advice. I used acetone which cleans it straight away. Rearranging batteries and making new V-Harness

[Jeff Wohlt]

You may have gotten away runnning that harness a time or two but that is a bad harness. Too many splices and if any of the solder joints are not perfect then you loaded that ESC up with some very dirty power.

Just my opinon and we know what they say about those! No reason you can't go directly to the connector with your wires.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I have yet to parallel a set of packs. Can someone post a picture of a well made parallel connection?

[knpc]

This is what I made and have been using it for a year now without any problems. I made them as short as I could.

[DISAR]

This is the best way to do it, the two wires directly connected to the bullet. Forget the Y-Harness term, V-harness is the correct way. My point was to show what a wire extension can do. In small boats you can easily use short ones but in big boats it's quite difficult. In addition some ESCs have some tolerance in longer wires some others don't.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Well that was an expensive way to show us but.... thank you!

[tylerm]

Once youve cleaned it up best as possible i have found that if you paint the inside of the boat it really covers the smell. Boats painted on the inside look better anyway

[Jesse J]

So, I must say I just picked out the smoldering remains of my CC 120 out of the DF33 this evening. I have never so completely destroyed an ESC. I feel like one of my pets just died...

Here's the set up: DF33, 10XL CC120 on 4S2P (flightpower 5000, 25C through y connector just like the one above). I ran it first with the x447/3 and it was fast, but got hot after 4-5 min run (150F ESC and 140F motor). Then I tried an X646 and same deal. Backed off to a K45 and then just now even more to an X642 detounged (several hours between runs). This last run lasted maybe 30 seconds, and she let out the evil smoke. Opened her up and it looked like I shot the ESC with a phazer from Star Trek.

I don't get this one. the flex shaft spins smoothly, the prop was the smallest of the trials, and everything seemed fine. My main suspect now is the motor. I got it used off this forum and never tried it until I got this boat several days ago. Could a bad motor do this? Bad motor bearings? Its almost a bigger bummer that I didn't keep it from happening than the cost and smell of it happening. I did notice the heat and it seemed strange. The motor would make some strange sounds when checking the radio on the bench...

This is my analysis, ideas everyone. The motor was going bad and the heat from the larger prop test runs didn't help it any. The little prop let the motor wind up higher and this finally put the motor over the edge. I will pull the motor tomorrow and check back, didn't have the heart tonight.

I just wanted to hear what other things it could be. Thanks

[knpc]

Your theory seems logical. Another possibility is that you damaged the esc on previous runs and just happen let go on a more conservative run. I've been told that damage can accumulate over time when it keeps getting hot. The highest prop I've run on my df33 is a x642, I usually use a x640 or m445 and temps have been fine.
Sorry about the esc, that sucks

[DISAR]

Sorry about this, I know how you feel. I had a 9XL on 4s2p with max X646 running fine. Until now I have damaged some ESCs (the ones mentioned here were the nastiest-dirtiest case) but not a single motor. Maybe it is the accumulation theory mentioned by knpc. I don't know if you tried all these props in the same day but I think that with hot setups you cannot run more than 4-5 min. and if ESC gets hot let it cool down for an hour. About the motor I don't know if you suspect the bearings the cheapest thing to do is to change them.

[Jesse J]

Another thing that makes me think motor is that I tried two other ESCs on this boat, one other Hydra and the HiModel I got from Peter, all got pretty warm (<160). Each time I brought her in (no more than 4 min) and let her set for a couple hrs. When I fired her back up, all was cooled off. One other item, the batts drained much faster than I expected. after 4 mins 10000mah was almost 70% used up! I think the motor was just running way to low efficiency - its outa hea -------------------->

Accumulated damage... I don't doubt at least part of the problem. All these ESCs and motor were purchased on these swap shops used. You never know what you are getting unless the items are new in boxes and unsoldered.

I used this motor while waiting for my neu motor bracket. I think the best thing is to remove this suspect motor so I don't go ruin another ESC.