What is detounging and how do you balance props?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Blackjack-sven
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2009
    • 371

    #1

    What is detounging and how do you balance props?

    I have a grim racer 3 blade prop and an octura x642 prop and was wondering how to balance them. Do you remove the material from the center section or the blades themselves? And what does detounge mean?
    HK Genesis, DF Vortex, Baja 5T, Lazer ZX-5 sp, XXX, 8T, P51-D Mustang Shangrila, GP Giant P51-D Mustang, Blade 400 3D, with way too many more to list.
  • teach
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 509

    #2
    Originally posted by Blackjack-sven
    I have a grim racer 3 blade prop and an octura x642 prop and was wondering how to balance them. Do you remove the material from the center section or the blades themselves? And what does detounge mean?
    http://rcboat.com/prop.htm and the link in the tips and info page have gotten me off to a good start.

    Comment

    • bwells
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2009
      • 842

      #3
      I'm no pro on this but this is my story. Bought a balancer from KINTECRACING for 35 bucks and it is nice. 2 magnets with the shaft between them and it will spin forever. I got 2 x447 l/r for my villian and proceeded to file on the leading edge while also sharpening it. It took a long time and the right knee on my jeans are gone. I was able to get it to almost balance but it would always stop in the same position, Blades horizontal, could not tell what to file next. Tried it out and did not see any difference between stock plastic stuff. Just ordered an x642 for my bj26, when it comes I'm sending all 3 to eggneg and call it good. DEtounguing is removing the front most part of the blade as this has the lowest pitch and slows the blade down when it enters the water. Octura's M series (modified) has this feature I think. Good luck!

      Comment

      • Ub Hauled
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Aug 2007
        • 3031

        #4
        Go here for all your prop needs:

        http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...r_Tips_&_Info_
        :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

        Comment

        • bwells
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2009
          • 842

          #5
          egg neg has a post today, check him out

          Comment

          • ReddyWatts
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Apr 2007
            • 1711

            #6
            Removal of the prop tongue

            This is a photo of an Octura M prop setting on top of an X prop. The M is a factory detounged X. You do not need to remove a lot of the tongue to change top end performance.
            Attached Files
            ReddyWatts fleet photo
            M1 Supercat - Neu 1527 1Y, 8s / Mean Machine- Feigao 580, 8s, 120 HV esc
            Mean Machine - Feigao 540 14XL, 8s, 100 amp HV esc, X537/3

            Comment

            • tharmer
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2009
              • 342

              #7
              Not to derail the thread too much, but is there a book that reallly talks about all the issues involved in performance modding of RC props? There are bits of info here and there but I haven't found a central source that compiles it all.

              -t

              Comment

              • Flying Scotsman
                Fast Electric Adict!
                • Jun 2007
                • 5190

                #8
                Originally posted by tharmer
                Not to derail the thread too much, but is there a book that reallly talks about all the issues involved in performance modding of RC props? There are bits of info here and there but I haven't found a central source that compiles it all.

                -t
                Not really, it is an art that serious racers have learnt through trial and error and type of hull etc.
                A perfect example was where Brian Bass took a stock UL-1 to over 60mph with a tweaked prop.

                Douggie

                Comment

                • Darin Jordan
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 8335

                  #9
                  This is the best, most simplified example describing prop prep that I've been able to find...



                  However, no amount of "theory" replaces simply TRYING it and figuring out what works and what doesn't... You are going to have to be willing to ruin a prop or two before you really start figuring out what to do... just part of the game...

                  However, one prop that is ruined for a particular app, may turn out to be just what you need for another, so it's all valuable learning... And the learning never stops... In fact... Brian told me yesterday that he talked with Jim Shafer (ABC Props) and now has some more insight... GREAAAATTT! Just what the rest of us needed to hear!
                  Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
                  "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

                  Comment

                  • Blackjack-sven
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 371

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Darin Jordan
                    This is the best, most simplified example describing prop prep that I've been able to find...



                    However, no amount of "theory" replaces simply TRYING it and figuring out what works and what doesn't... You are going to have to be willing to ruin a prop or two before you really start figuring out what to do... just part of the game...

                    However, one prop that is ruined for a particular app, may turn out to be just what you need for another, so it's all valuable learning... And the learning never stops... In fact... Brian told me yesterday that he talked with Jim Shafer (ABC Props) and now has some more insight... GREAAAATTT! Just what the rest of us needed to hear!
                    That was a great source of very good info. Thanx
                    HK Genesis, DF Vortex, Baja 5T, Lazer ZX-5 sp, XXX, 8T, P51-D Mustang Shangrila, GP Giant P51-D Mustang, Blade 400 3D, with way too many more to list.

                    Comment

                    • tharmer
                      Senior Member
                      • Mar 2009
                      • 342

                      #11
                      Nevertheless, there must be some general rules. For example what do you do to reduce lift? How can you increase lift? How can you concntrate the thrust cone and when should you want to do that? Etc.

                      -t

                      Comment

                      • bwells
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2009
                        • 842

                        #12
                        No one has said whether you should balance the drive dog and prop at the same time, together. They are one when running. I used a felt pen to mark the prop and dog so they go together the same way every time. The grub screw must have a different weight than solid metal on the opposite side unless it is so close to the shaft, it does not matter. For my applications it doesn't matter but I figured, what the heck, no big deal

                        Comment

                        • DISAR
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Aug 2007
                          • 1072

                          #13
                          I've read here that the trailing should also be sharpenned but until now I knew the trailing edge to be flat. So what is the correct way for the trailing edge, sharpenned or flat?
                          Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
                          http://www.rcfastboats.com/

                          Comment

                          • egneg
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Feb 2008
                            • 4670

                            #14
                            It should be flat and have sharp edges.
                            IMPBA 20481S D-12

                            Comment

                            • DISAR
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Aug 2007
                              • 1072

                              #15
                              Ok cleared, thanks
                              Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
                              http://www.rcfastboats.com/

                              Comment

                              Working...