UL1 motor/ SV esc ?

[line6]

I have a few sv motor/esc and want to try a ul1 motor. any one try the ul1 motor with a sv esc. I know they are not rated the same. Just wondering how it worked out.

Thanks.

[HOTWATER]

Have not tried that...actually, I was wondering about the opposite...has anyone used the new AC UL-1 60 Amp ESC and the AC SV motor?

Sorry about adding my question to your topic Line6, but I had to ask...

-Kent

[detox]

I've load tested the UL1, BJ26, SV27, and HiMax 3630-1500 motor (basically the same as the BJ26) on a test bench, recording amps, thrust (with a given airplane prop), watts, etc...

Using the SV27 and UL1 motors, with the same load, the UL1 motor pulls 39-amps and drops down 4800 RPM over it's unloaded RPM, compared to only 26-amps and a drop of only 1569 RPM for the SV27 motor, again, using the exact same load and battery setup. This should tell you that the SV27 motor can take a LOT more prop before it reaches it's amp limit, while the UL1 motor is already approaching it's...

I think what you'll find is that there are some applications where the SV27 motor would actually have an advantage, and others where the UL1 motor would be preferred.

If you have a light hull that likes a smaller prop spinning fast, then the UL1 would work well. If you have a larger, or heavier hull, that can handle the torque and a larger prop, you might have an advantage with the SV27 or ProBoat BJ26 setup...

The larger 4mm connectors of the UL1 motor will not fit the smaller connectors of the SV27 ESC. So replacing motor/esc connectors is a must if mixing the ESC's. I also think using the UL1 esc with the SV27 motor makes more sense if using larger props and heavier hulls.

[HOTWATER]

The larger 4mm connectors of the UL1 motor will not fit the smaller connectors of the SV27 ESC. So replacing motor/esc connectors is a must if mixing the ESC's. I also think using the UL1 esc with the SV27 motor makes more sense if using larger props and heavier hulls.

Thanks detox! I may have to buy the SV motor on that note! Great info...

-Kent

[detox]

The small SV27 connectors are junk. I replaced mine with Castle's beefier 4mm connectors. When replacing connectors DO NOT CUT OFF FACTORY CONNECTORS of the SV27 motor. If the factory soldered end of wire is cutoff it will be VERY difficult to resolder the new burnished coated wire. To remove the CHEAP small connectors of the SV27 motor simply desolder using a hot iron. Then resolder new larger connectors to factory tinned wires of SV27 motor.

[HOTWATER]

The small SV27 connectors are junk. I replaced mine with Castle's beefier 4mm connectors. When replacing connectors DO NOT CUT OFF FACTORY CONNECTORS of the SV27 motor. If the factory soldered end of wire is cutoff it will be VERY difficult to resolder the new burnished coated wire. To remove the CHEAP small connectors of the SV27 motor simply desolder using a hot iron. Then resolder new larger connectors to factory tinned wires of SV27 motor.

Awesome advice detox!! Thanks for keeping that frustrating attempt from happening!

I have a question...do you know if the new 1 piece UL-1 water cooling cans (like Steven sells) will fit the SV 27 BL motors?

-Kent

[detox]

I have a question...do you know if the new 1 piece UL-1 water cooling cans (like Steven sells) will fit the SV 27 BL motors?

-Kent

I do not know. My SV 27 motor measures 1.416", my slightly larger UL1 motor measures 1.430" .

[HOTWATER]

Thanks for checking on that for me detox. Much appreciated!

-Kent