Mono hull adjustable strut-stinger installation

[DISAR]

I have a mono hull where the stuffing tube exists the hull and slides into the strut. The point where the brass tube exits the hull is epoxied therefore the strut cannot be adjusted up & down. Is there any other way to install the brass tube to slide into to the strut without epoxying the tube to the hull?
In the adjustable stingers is the stuffing tube exiting the hull and slides into the stinger?

[hookedup]

pic?

can you post a pic? then we can see what you are working with.

[RandyatBBY]

I have that same setup on my monos. I use RTV silicon to seal the boat. I have a oval hole in the transom and the swill allow the stuffing tube to move up and down a little. For more movement I cut it out and fill with more silicon. I use Permatex Black silicon item #81158

[DISAR]

Ok, thank you very much! It must be something strong to hold the brass tube in place but flex as well to allow the up & down movement. I will post a photo of mine later on, but it is fixed in place with epoxy and cannot move at all.

[Flyguy55]

I do the same thing. Use glass cloth and resin near the motor end of the stuffing tube , Then you can adjust the strut height and the stuffing tube won't move

[RandyatBBY]

Ok, thank you very much! It must be something strong to hold the brass tube in place but flex as well to allow the up & down movement. I will post a photo of mine later on, but it is fixed in place with epoxy and cannot move at all.

I put quite a bit on the inside of the transom and a little on the out side of the transom. My struts are built so the stuffing tube is tight in the strut. The Silicon makes like a rubber plug on the back, with a stuffing tube threw it.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Maybe I am not following this correctly but why not bring the brass out to the boat hull just before the stingers adjustable tube then run teflon in to the stinger. No reason to have brass inside the stinger. This allows you to mount it all tight and water proof then the teflon can be the soft joint for the little adjustment for these. You should have a bearing inside the stinger for prop shaft suupport anyway. Some try to run the stuffing tube all the way in and use as a bearing surface...why do that?

Does that make sense?

[crrcboatz]

The speedmaster stingers I have installed on my gas boats instructed that you run the brass just into the stinger.

Curt

[Scott T]

You can build a 'wet well' for your stuffing tube.

I made a wooden box for mine - see the attachment. The brass tube is supported by the box at the front (epoxied in place), and by the Speedmaster strut (not stinger) at the back. The transom has an oval hole, allowing the strut to be moved up and down easily. The box fills with water when the boat is at rest, so the timber needs to be sealed well.

The stuffing tube only goes about 1/4" or so into the strut. I installed 2 Octura bushes to support the shaft.

Others have used a large diameter tube, with the stuffing tube running through that. The large tube is mounted in the hull, and capped at the front, except for a hole where the stuffing tube comes through.

Sorry I don't have a picture of the transom - they're at home.

Scott

[DISAR]

Thanks everybody for your posts. There is one thing to clear, if you run with teflon it is much easier. You stop the brass tube at the hull exit and then the teflon slides into the strut and adjustment is easy.
However, if you run without teflon, things get more complicated as in the case that we discuss here.
The wooden box construction of Scott T is very nice and supports the tube near the motor so that a little adjustment up & down at the strut can be done.
The Randy's method is nice as well with the silicon and I believe it is easier. And in conjuction with Flyguy55 here is what I come with:
a) Either install a wooden box or similar and support the brass tube near the motor (Scott T)
b) Or support the brass tube again near the motor with epoxy and use silicon where the brass tube exits the hull.
In both cases the stuffing (brass) tube slides into the strut.

Thank you for your posts and if there are any other ways or I am wrong in something please say.

[Scott T]

Found a pic of the back of my boat. You can sorta see the oval shaped hole in the transom. You can also see the carbon spacer I used to move the strut back a little - not really needed.

Also, check out Darin's mono in this thread - http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ght=wild+thing It uses the large tube method.

Good luck with whichever way you go!

Cheers,
Scott

[DISAR]

Thank you very much Scott!