I would recommend spending another $10 and getting the Etti. It is water resistant and has water cooling. Although there is no reason it should not work. Air cooling in a boat is not ideal. Water cooling is preferable.
they have low enough Kv for an N2 boat, altough i would not use it for such...
they are made for cars mostly cause they are "short" cans and do not dissipate heat well, then there is the cooling issue for the ESC as well...
:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::
I don't know for which hull you want it, but you have to waterproof the esc. Air cooling is Ok and if you also add water cooling better. I would definately go for an ETTI ESC which is waterproofed-powerful-watercooled. Just plug it in, adjust the settings and ready to go.
For the motor please tell us which boat exactly-length-type and you will get the answer.
This is a great forum and many members ALWAYS provide help-advice.
I have used the Sidewinder combo (same motor 4600 kv but 75% power I think) and it was way too high rev. Maybe for 2S trouble on 3S. I also killed the ESC when I put two 3S packs in series, not really sure why, maybe couldn't handle the load? It was in an apache sized balsa cat and it went fast until that day. I had made me a brass box that I jb welded to the cooling fins, worked ok but was way too high rev and not made for loads that boats are capable of and notorious for. I ended up putting it back in my car and man is it good in cars.
Blackjack-Sven are you trying to improve the performance of the BJ26? If that is the case save your money and buy a Delta Force 29 or 33. The drive system on that boat will drive you crazy with more powerfull motors. You will spend a lot of money on a hull that has limitations. If it is a question about that motor/ESC. It is not suitable for most boat applications, the ESC is the weak point. My .04 Canadian cents. Do not get me wrong on RTR hulls I have 8 hulls that were then built by myself to suit my aspirations and 2 RTR's an SV27 and a UL-1 which are really fun hulls for spec racing but do not think that sticking in a more aggresive motor in most RTR's that you will be the champ of the pond, probably the reverse! Generaly most RTR's respond better to subtle changes...prop within reason...strut and other mechanical changes
Good points, Douggie. Sven, if you want a quality cat hull, I can send you public domain plans for a balsa cat that was designed to take high power systems. then put quality boat-oriented gear in it and you will be a happy pilot.
1. Why are RTR hulls not capable of handling high power systems?
2. How much will the Balsa Cat plans cost me?
3. Why is it that the first (what I believe) subtle change I make, makes the boat slower?
4. The boat I want to improve on is the blackjack 26 bl, therefore what equipment would propel this thing not only in the straights but also in the corners.
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I'm not up to speed with the lingo yet. 2s? 3c? 1978/6? and so on. LOL
I'm just trying to take what I know from cars and trying to apply the concepts and theories to the electronics in boats.
HK Genesis, DF Vortex, Baja 5T, Lazer ZX-5 sp, XXX, 8T, P51-D Mustang Shangrila, GP Giant P51-D Mustang, Blade 400 3D, with way too many more to list.
Sven, is not that you cannot have fun with the RTR boats, they can go fast, don't let all the impressions drive you away. The thing is, it will not perform like a true race hull since they are designed to perform for less experienced people.
You can still invest some money on your RTR boat and figure things out and then when you fell a bit more confident with setup technique, power, prop/motor relation, etc you can get a your next fast hull.
You can find nice cat plans for free and nice cat plans for some money... it's a matter of which one you like to own.
What was the first subtle change you made?
There is a lot of potential in your BJ26 as is, learn from it before you start spending money.
Some lingo:
2s = 2 cells , 3s = 3 cells , etc, that goes for how many cells the lipo pack you own has.
(same goes fro cars)
20c, 25c, 30c, 35c, goes for the discharge rate your battery has, the higher the better... it'll output more power with less heat.
1978/6?! I am going to assume you are talking about motors...
Let's talk abut the Lehner motors, they have among others the 19 series motors. They start with the 1920 then the 1930, 1940 and 1950. The 1950/7 is the numbers of turns of that particular motor.
Feigao motors: They have the S, L and XL... short, long and Extra-long...
the 9 XL means an XL can with 9 turns.
The proboat motors:
3630-1500 = 36mm dia. x 30mm long with a Kv of 1500. In case you don't know, Kv means RPM/volt.
hope this helps.
:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::
Yes this info has helped quite a lot, thanx.
The minor mod I did to the boat was to change the prop to a grimracer 40x52 3 blade prop. Its the same type of prop like the x642 but it has 3 blades instead of 2. My guess is that Im trying to push more water with it but don't seem to have the power to pick up and plane quickly. Mind you the motor had stock timing as well, which may have been the problem.
HK Genesis, DF Vortex, Baja 5T, Lazer ZX-5 sp, XXX, 8T, P51-D Mustang Shangrila, GP Giant P51-D Mustang, Blade 400 3D, with way too many more to list.
Motor timing shouldn't be the problem. If I'm not mistaken, the X642 is actually more aggressive than the Grim prop, larger in diameter as well. The larger diameter, for one, will provide greater acceleration. (For example, on my Mono, with a X440, it cavitates, but with a X442 it jumps on plane with no cavitation).
If you want to upgrade the BJ26 to go faster, the first this I would suggest is the X642 for starters, and LiPo's of course. The second thing I would do is change out that power-robbing steerable outdrive thats comes stock. Change it out with a Strut and Rudder and you mostly will see a performance gain, as well as handling gain, from this. Aeromarine make a conversion kit: http://www.aeromarinerc.com/ Click on "Running Gear" on the left and scroll down to the BJ26 conversion, part #BJ26UP
Once you do this, then changing motors and speed controllers for more powerful setups won't be an issue. A good reliable setup can be found listed at the very bottom of here:
A Neu 1515/2D and a Castle Hydra 120 with a stock BJ prop, that should make it fly on 4s.
As far as LiPo's go, get the best packs if you can afford them, with the highest C rating, at least 20-25C. FlightPower, MarinePower, NeuEnergy, PolyRC, PolyQuest are all TOP brands. However, some will suggest Zippy, Rhino, and Flightmax packs, found HERE. Most will steer you away from these. But with taking good care of them and running these in parallel setups, I have yet to have a problem with my Rhino's and Zippy's.
The plans are free. balsa/ply stock will run you $40-50 and with paint etc you will probably end up spending $70ish. Hobbying and construction skill are mandatory and you might need to make a second one after you learn the plans, unless you are a pro model builder. The plans I have were designed for speed and scale looks (thanks to Shockerman). If interested let me know. I have made three boats at different scales and they keep getting better. If you want a peek at my most recent see this thread: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6561
I'm just trying to take what I know from cars and trying to apply the concepts and theories to the electronics in boats.
Sven, this does not work, boats are way more demanding on motors, ESC and batteries. These components are working at their extremes.
You can modify your BJ26 to be a faster hull, but you are going to spend a lot of cash, believe me, I have been there. If you get the FE addiction make some changes as detailed but with an eye to moving it over to another hull of the same size. If, you want a larger hull this will not work in most cases. Unless the ESC is overspecified.
Ok.
So lets hear what hull types and companies you guys like best.
I'm personally in love with the style and shape of the cat, but I'm sure there are better hulls out there. I'd like to go fast in a straight line as well as in the corners.
HK Genesis, DF Vortex, Baja 5T, Lazer ZX-5 sp, XXX, 8T, P51-D Mustang Shangrila, GP Giant P51-D Mustang, Blade 400 3D, with way too many more to list.
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