How to unglue...

[AndyKunz]

I usually slice something like that lengthwise. If the heat doesn't open it up, then the mechanical opening will.

Andy

[Ub Hauled]

I have a pencil torch, more like a "long magic marker"... I'll try that in a little while and post results, if I can find the tripod even some video for prosperity (or comic relieve).

[old guy]

Sound like it's time for the old guy I do this sh*t for a living and Darin is right
1- put the coupler in the vice motor down
2- if you want rap with wet cloth but it will not take that long to get that hot
3 have a punch one size smaller than the shaft ready
4 use your pencil torch point it up and away from the motor when heating
5 you will only need 5 sec per side thats 10 sec becouse 2 sides are against the vice.
6 hit the shaft with the punch and the motor will fall so put somthing down for it to fall on.
7 put shaft in water to cool
PS make sure alen screws are out or you can get heat to them. if not out take them out first with a little heat

If you are still not sure pm me and i will give you my phone number and talk you through it. I have been doing this for over 30years

The old guy

[Gerwin Brommer]

Sounds stupid, but maybe you can throw the motor in the fridge for a day, before
you heat up the coupler ?

[Darin Jordan]

Sounds stupid, but maybe you can throw the motor in the fridge for a day, before
you heat up the coupler ?

Actually sounds like a good idea to me... can't hurt.

[Flying Scotsman]

The last four reponses make sense to my stupid brain
Douggie

[Meniscus]

I like the freeze idea. Well maybe not freeze, but close to it. I've done this a lot with various things. Another idea is to fashion a heat shield if you don't get on the first try.

What about some other chemicals? Turpentine, gasket remover, etc. Also, they have products that are made to dissolve coatings on BBQ grills. Often times, these products are incorporated into the spray paint cans specifically made for painting on grill surfaces.

Just a thought.

[properchopper]

Sounds stupid, but maybe you can throw the motor in the fridge for a day, before
you heat up the coupler ?

Not such a bad idea ! I used to put interference-fit valve seats in the freezer & the cylinder heads of old Harley engines in the oven to get the seats in. Recently I had a cooling jacket that would not slide on without damaging force. Popped the motor in the freezer overnight & put the jacket in near-boiling water before installing it. It worked !

As far as the coupler problem is concerned, I used to have a hard time replacing pinions on my old, salt-water-run Twinstorm. I found that by grinding { and sacrificing} the gear by carefully grinding it down { !} on a bench grinder until the wall thickness was substantially reduced, it would expand easier when exposed to heat. Scary stuff but it worked.

[egneg]

To isolate the heat and keep it away from the motor I would recommend Thermo-Trap. It has been used by HVAC techs for many years to keep heat from silver brazing away from valves. I have had a tube of this for many years as a little bit goes a long ways.

http://www.nucalgon.com/products/speciality_thermotrappaste.htm

[Ub Hauled]

Well... after studying this process a little bit I finally had a chance to get the coupler off the shaft,
it was a piece of cake after it was hot. No need for thermal traps since the coupler is so massive that I could stay a bit further away from the faceplate of the motor.
I used the "heat and beat" method, made sure that it was tight enough on the vise, had a dowel/hammer handy and torched away. If you are going to do this somewhere down the line, with a big mass coupler, don't wait until you see the smoke (glue burning) coming out, then the shaft will heat up too much , since the heat on the outside takes a few seconds to get inside and may affect the magnets.
Once I heat the thing up I hammered away (with a safety net of rags to get the falling motor), until the thing fell. I was successful on the second try since the first time it was not hot enough... but I let everything cool down prior to the second attempt.
After cleaning the inside of the coupler to get the glue remaining off... the motor is mounted back in place again.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I would have never used a torch. You are a braver man than I. But now that I think about it, quick heat was better than prolonged heat build up from a soldering iron. Glad it worked out.

[old guy]

Sound like it's time for the old guy I do this sh*t for a living and Darin is right
1- put the coupler in the vice motor down
2- if you want rap with wet cloth but it will not take that long to get that hot
3 have a punch one size smaller than the shaft ready
4 use your pencil torch point it up and away from the motor when heating
5 you will only need 5 sec per side thats 10 sec becouse 2 sides are against the vice.
6 hit the shaft with the punch and the motor will fall so put somthing down for it to fall on.
7 put shaft in water to cool
PS make sure alen screws are out or you can get heat to them. if not out take them out first with a little heat

If you are still not sure pm me and i will give you my phone number and talk you through it. I have been doing this for over 30years

The old guy

HMMMMM sounds familar when in doubt ask a old guy

[Flying Scotsman]

LOL the old guys do know their sh*t especially on mechanical problems, on computer related problems most are

Douggie

[Ub Hauled]

I would have never used a torch. You are a braver man than I. But now that I think about it, quick heat was better than prolonged heat build up from a soldering iron. Glad it worked out.

I am with you Steven, had it been in a smaller motor I would never use a torch, I would have done something else. But since there was a lot of room to keep the torch away from the faceplate this was the best way I could think of (suggested by the pros).
Prolonged heat is what kills the magnets... I guess in a smaller motor one can use a smaller torch.

[Flying Scotsman]

The point was a pencil flame.
Douggie