How to unglue...

[Ub Hauled]

Guys, I recently bought a 3060 Lehner from a friend and
it came with the water jacket and 10mm->.250 coupler.
The problem is the coupler is glued ono to the shaft with
permanent Loctite...
How can I take the coupler off w/o damaging the motor and shaft?

Thanks

[Steven Vaccaro]

Heat, maybe a soldering iron. Is there enough space between the coupler and the motor to get small set of pliers or something similar in there to pull the heat off the shaft?

[Flying Scotsman]

This is an interesting question....heat will work... but destroy other components, is there a chemical reaction that may work...over to EYEKANDY

Douggie

[ghostofpf1]

Like was said...a careful application of heat may be your only recourse for permanent loc-tite.

Maybe try soaking just the coupler and shaft end in acetone ??

good luck
Steve

[Darin Jordan]

"Permenant" Loctite (603??) let's go at a fairly low temp... 250 -degrees C.

According to the spec sheet:

For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately 250
°C. Disassemble while hot.

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93772_603EN.pdf

I'd just wrap a wet cloth around the top of the motor can up against the shaft, then apply quick, rapid heat to the coupler and pull it off... Hopefully that would work...

[bustitup]

Guys, I recently bought a 3060 Lehner from a friend and
it came with the water jacket and 10mm->.250 coupler.
The problem is the coupler is glued ono to the shaft with
permanent Loctite...
How can I take the coupler off w/o damaging the motor and shaft?

Thanks

I dont know if this is an option and may sound stupid but couldn't you lock down on the proper mm you need with the stuck .250 coupler and then get the right collet or felex hex you would need?

did I say that right?

or what about just dremiling it off with a cutting wheel very carefully

[Ub Hauled]

wow... lot's of "hopefully" answers...
thanks guys I guess I have to figure out a way to
get that hot enough and quick enough so the magnets don't give...
Should I just throw some fire onto the coupler and let it heat up enough
to burn the glue?
Steven the fact that the coupler is only 1 or 2mm from the bearing is the problem,
I wanted to clean and lube the bearing and I can't
Thanks for the prompt answers guys...

[Ub Hauled]

I dont know if this is an option and may sound stupid but couldn't you lock down on the proper mm you need with the stuck .250 coupler and then get the right collet or felex hex you would need?

did I say that right?

or what about just dremiling it off with a cutting wheel very carefully

I am trying to keep the coupler, if push comes t shove then more drastic measures may apply...
I am not sure I understand what you mean on the first part of your suggestion
sorry

[Darin Jordan]

wow... lot's of "hopefully" answers...
thanks guys I guess I have to figure out a way to
get that hot enough and quick enough so the magnets don't give...
Should I just throw some fire onto the coupler and let it heat up enough
to burn the glue?
Steven the fact that the coupler is only 1 or 2mm from the bearing is the problem,
I wanted to clean and lube the bearing and I can't
Thanks for the prompt answers guys...

Jan,

Put the heat to the coupler and bust the dang thing off there... If you are going to pull it apart anyhow, bearings aren't that costly... if you damage it, replace it while you have it apart...

I think you'll be fine... The coupler will heat up way faster than the shaft anyhow...

[properchopper]

I modified [ thinned] the jaws on this puller to fit in between the coupler & endbell & it's worked for me. Problem is Octura couplers have a curved/tapered surface on the motor side & this has a hard time gripping it. Can you post a picture of your coupler from the side ? [ you will need to find a bolt or something to slide inside the coupler to rest on the motor shaft to allow the threaded piece to push against the shaft].

[Ub Hauled]

Jan,

Put the heat to the coupler and bust the dang thing off there... If you are going to pull it apart anyhow, bearings aren't that costly... if you damage it, replace it while you have it apart...

I think you'll be fine... The coupler will heat up way faster than the shaft anyhow...

that's what I was thinking Darin, alu coupler gets hotter way faster then the shaft... I am trying to mustard up the courage to get the torch out... I don't really like forcing things to work... BUT it has to be done.

[Ub Hauled]

Tony, I thought of using the pinion extractor as well, but there REALLY isn't enough room to get the claw under the coupler....

[Darin Jordan]

that's what I was thinking Darin, alu coupler gets hotter way faster then the shaft... I am trying to mustard up the courage to get the torch out... I don't really like forcing things to work... BUT it has to be done.

My experience with Loctite is that it gets hot and just drops apart... Hopefully that'll be the case here... I think it should be just fine...

[properchopper]

Another method I've used is to grip the coupler in a vice, coupler side up & spray carburetor cleaner into the coupler. It seems to loosen the locktite some. Insert bolt into coupler to contact shaft & tap with hammer. This may shear the locktite bond & let the shaft slide out.

[bustitup]

if he does apply heat he needs to do it quick
so he needs another set of hands to apply pulling pressure on the stuck coupler while the other guy heats the coupler

I would use a small plumbers torch with map gas

and use the damp rag on the motor as someone suggested