Himodel gx series 125a esc...anyone

**yurkanip** · 02-06-2009, 02:44 PM

Anyone have any info they might be able to share on himodel 100a-200a escs? I know they can be programmed with the turnigy esc card, but other than that...not sure about their true amp capabilities. Hoping someone will chime in..as I know many folks are using the 200a escs...but prices of the 125a are great...so...

Thanks

**calcagno45** · 02-06-2009, 03:24 PM

I've used the 200a in both boat and truck application with great result. I ran a 9xl on 4 and 5s.

**lomdel** · 02-11-2009, 08:41 AM

Originally posted by yurkanip

Anyone have any info they might be able to share on himodel 100a-200a escs? I know they can be programmed with the turnigy esc card, but other than that...not sure about their true amp capabilities. Hoping someone will chime in..as I know many folks are using the 200a escs...but prices of the 125a are great...so...

Thanks

Yurka, are you sure that the Himodel GX 200A OPTO ESC can be programmed with the Turnigy card?

**yurkanip** · 02-11-2009, 12:42 PM

lomdel, according to turnigy, it can be used for the himodel esc's. Mine should be here next week and I will test it first hand. But I have been told by turnigy users, that it can program, both himodel and turnigy escs. I am banking on this, but in reality the cards are only 6$ dollars, so if I need to buy a himodel card, no problem.

**lomdel** · 02-12-2009, 02:10 AM

Himodel have two series ESC's, the HW and the GX series. I think their card is only compatible with the HW series, the GX 200A OPTO is not card programmable according to my knowledge (not much BTW). Please prove me wrong!

**yurkanip** · 02-17-2009, 01:55 PM

lomdel, I have some news for you. If you are still following this thread. I received my new esc's from himodel. gx series 70, and 125a to play with in terms of programming, etc. tried my turnigy program card, and nada! No setup whatsoever, and I contacted himodel directly, this was their answer: They know nothing about the turnigy program card or programming...and secondly, they stated that the himodel program card is only good for the fly series, econo, professional etc....basically most of their esc brands, except for the gx series. He stated that it will not work for the 200a gx esc that everyone is using. Back to stick programming.
ON a side note. used my 70a in my 6s 65mph mbx5 brushless buggy, and it works great. even on 6s! waterproofed the 125a, for a rigger esc, and adding water cooling. Setup is basic ok to use right out of the bag, no programming...other than turning brake on or off. these gx esc's default settings track cell numbers, and cutoff accordingly if using default setting. All in all, its not too bad of a deal. I am still amazed at the 70a, ability to handle 6s in a very fast buggy. these are cheap, but sturdy escs...that is no joke. My turnigy, has loss of signal for a split second, and restarts...have yet to have that happen to the himodel escs. for the money and performance I am happy with these guys soo far.

**bustitup** · 02-17-2009, 02:42 PM

could you please post pics of how you waterproof and water cooled your hi model esc?

Originally posted by yurkanip

lomdel, I have some news for you. If you are still following this thread. I received my new esc's from himodel. gx series 70, and 125a to play with in terms of programming, etc. tried my turnigy program card, and nada! No setup whatsoever, and I contacted himodel directly, this was their answer: They know nothing about the turnigy program card or programming...and secondly, they stated that the himodel program card is only good for the fly series, econo, professional etc....basically most of their esc brands, except for the gx series. He stated that it will not work for the 200a gx esc that everyone is using. Back to stick programming.
ON a side note. used my 70a in my 6s 65mph mbx5 brushless buggy, and it works great. even on 6s! waterproofed the 125a, for a rigger esc, and adding water cooling. Setup is basic ok to use right out of the bag, no programming...other than turning brake on or off. these gx esc's default settings track cell numbers, and cutoff accordingly if using default setting. All in all, its not too bad of a deal. I am still amazed at the 70a, ability to handle 6s in a very fast buggy. these are cheap, but sturdy escs...that is no joke. My turnigy, has loss of signal for a split second, and restarts...have yet to have that happen to the himodel escs. for the money and performance I am happy with these guys soo far.

**lomdel** · 02-17-2009, 04:04 PM

Originally posted by bustitup

could you please post pics of how you waterproof and water cooled your hi model esc?

I drilled and inserted four copper tubes that will be routed inline with a dedicated cooling line. The motor have its own one (twin pick-up rudder). In one of the pics you see a small (25x25mm) 3racing fan on the side, that has since been replaced by a bigger 40x40mm 5V one running off a spare Rx slot. I sprayed the whole thing with CorrosionX to waterproof. No idea if it works yet...

Attached Files

**yurkanip** · 02-18-2009, 01:08 AM

Here you go, a few pics of my homemade water cooling. This was a very easy controller to add this to and the fets were fairly flat...only a very light sanding to get the last few to be level. (be very careful when sanding the fets level...you can burn through them very quickly)

waterproofing is very straightforward. dp-270 (conformal coating) brush it on, the entire controller. heat with a hair dryer, and it will just flow throughout the entire esc. into the hard to reach places. Make sure to keep rotating the esc as you are heating with the blow dryer....and it will not drip. once it is a thin film over everything...simply let it hand, and as it gets tacky. wipe off the fets, with a q-tip or a rag tightly around the finger tip. That way when it comes time to fit the watercooling plate...you won't have to deal with 1/16th of an inch of epoxy. The plate is then put onto the esc, only after you apply the original thermal pad, or what I used which is arctic silver, thermal compound, apply with some force, epoxy the edges of the cooling plate to the edges of the esc, then wrap with electrical tape to keep it centered as the epoxy sets...so that the plate is in complete contact with the fets...... shrink wrap is then applied holding it all together.

Hope this helps.

Attached Files

**yurkanip** · 02-18-2009, 01:10 AM

Forgot to add, the cooling plate is brass, and brass tubes (3/16 inner diameter were used) this was to all a large amount of water to contact the plate, rather than 1/8th or smaller tubing that is commonly used, when stuffing them in between the cooling fins, as other builders sometimes use. the larger tubing being used, also allowed the water cooling line just enough stretch to fit over them.

**bustitup** · 02-18-2009, 01:46 AM

what did you use to bond the tubes to the plate?...couldnt you even use 4 tubes for better cooling...not much more work to do

**yurkanip** · 02-18-2009, 01:54 AM

Bustitup....I used a torch and silver solder. It is very easy, if you get some thick flux paste....the solder just wicks to it, and bonds very well. Also, using 4 tubs would work also...but I have experience with 2, and it works great. Have also heard that the 4 tubes, on a plate such as mine, really wouldn't do much more than what the 2 are doing. That is the reason partially I chose to use such large diameter tubes, so that I only needed 2 of them....holding more water, smaller exit hole=cooler esc.

Hope this helps. I am happy with these esc's soo far.

**bustitup** · 02-18-2009, 02:17 AM

Originally posted by yurkanip

Bustitup....I used a torch and silver solder. It is very easy, if you get some thick flux paste....the solder just wicks to it, and bonds very well. Also, using 4 tubs would work also...but I have experience with 2, and it works great. Have also heard that the 4 tubes, on a plate such as mine, really wouldn't do much more than what the 2 are doing. That is the reason partially I chose to use such large diameter tubes, so that I only needed 2 of them....holding more water, smaller exit hole=cooler esc.

Hope this helps. I am happy with these esc's soo far.

I have a hi model 200amp coming and I'm going to attempt this

did you flow that dp-270 over the caps too

**yurkanip** · 02-18-2009, 01:10 PM

If I am understanding you correctly, bustitup....You are asking about the mosfets, (fets) right?
If that is what you mean, then NO you don't want to encase the fets, but around them yes. Just make sure the tops are wiped clean, then lightly sand when it is all dry. The tops of these are what heats....the sides as well, but heat rises and it exits out that area. everything else should be epoxied. its too hard to heat the epoxy and esc, at the same time so heating the esc, After the epoxy has been slopped on is the easiest. This is true, since dp-270 has a working life of 70 mins.....giving lots of time to heat it and rotate as the epoxy drips to get into every single part of the esc...(well, as far as possible...since the 200amp escs have 3 boards sandwhiched together...getting it down in between those will be a task, but heat and apply the epoxy, it will work for sure)

Himodel gx series 125a esc...anyone

Himodel gx series 125a esc...anyone

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