Drive Cable Length

[Seadweller]

I've started the build on my Mini-X. Nice hull, but I have some fit and finish work to do on it. I've got the speedmaster hardware mounted and am working on the engine and servo mounts. The drive cable that came with the Speedmaster kit is a bit long. What is the best way to cut it to length? I have also noticed on several build threads the use and non-use of thrust bearings. I have seen them on the motor shaft and also on the cable at the prop end. Any suggestions for this? I will be using a stock SV-27 motor and esc for this boat.

Also, The hatch does not fit well and I'm not sure tape will keep water out. I am planning on building a subhatch for it. Don't get me wrong, I love the hull! The 32 Challenger hull does appear to be a bit better it and finish (have not started that one yet. Hopefully now hat the Pipewood derby is over I can get back to the boat.

Thanks

HMH

[crrcboatz]

Obviously new to electric but not new to rc boating so I would bet the cutting thing is the same???
Here goes, I find the length on the cable, mark it with a slight notch with my dremel. With a midget torch or a good solder gun, tine the area with liquid silver solder flux. Heat it, let the flux bubble. Place the flux on it in the area again, heat it once more. Now as it heats any grease in the cable will come out with the bubbling. Use a clean cloth to wipe it each time.
Be careful not to get the area too hot each time. Once it is clean place the heat under and around it in a moving motion if using a midget torch being careful not to get it too hot, put more flux on it and begin adding the silver solder in small amounts. When the area on either side of the notch where you are to cut it later are bright with solder. Let it cool. Do Not put water on it to cool it!!
After it is cool use your dremel tool and a cutter wheel and cut it at the notch. May need to bevel the edge with a file or grinder. It will not fray using this method and is ready for you collet when you finish the project. NO need to go back and do this again, it will work in the collet fine.

[DISAR]

This is the ideal way, but maybe you do not have all the materials mentioned. If you don't have them, just cut it with dremel carefully not to unwind it. Then bevel the edge slightly. Then you can solder the end of the flex just for protection against unwinding. Cutting it with a saw is not the best way and you may damage it. I did it in the past and one wire was slightly misplaced but running ok.

[Seadweller]

Crrcboatz And DISAR,

Thanks fo the replies. I was able to cut the cable as posted and it worked out fine. I did a test cut first, then cut the cable to the proper length. It worked out great.

On a side note, after I did the cut the calbe to length, my family went to an old hobby shop in town that is going out of business - wonderful old gentleman has been running it for 35 years. He mainly deals in models, but tucked behind the counter were boxes of RC boat stuff, props, cable, drive hardware, a bit older but good stuff (OCTURA, K&S, Marine Specialties). I was able to get a spare cable or two (.150, 3/16) at the several lenghts and a couple props at some good prices. Anyone need anything.. :)

Again thanks for the help.

HMH

[DISAR]

Lucky you! Do you have any props Octura X642,X645, M645 or Prather 225?

[crrcboatz]

HMH,
Glad I could help in some way! Have a good day.

[NorthernBoater]

You also need to make sure to cut the cable longer than what you think you will need. When you run the boat the cable will wind up some and will be shorted.

[Seadweller]

DISAR

The props that I went through were mostly inthe 50mm range and 20xx, 17xx. There were a few X and M's. There were seveal listed as 1.6 and 1.8 but nothing else. I did get a 42 an 45 red fiber and a x645. I'm going back Friday or Sat and I'll check.

NorthernBoater - good idea thanks. I'mnow working on the motor placement and mounts. The hull is a bit narrow and deep so I am doing some adjusting before I epoxy everything inplace.

HMH

[NorthernBoater]

What batteries, motor and ESC are you running? It sounds like most of the props you listed will be to big.

[Seadweller]

Northern,

I'm not planning on using any of those. A local hobby shop is going out of business and had several boxes of older RC boat stuff including those props. I don't plan on running any of the larger ones on the Mini-X (SV-27 motor/esc). The 32 Challenger will be running a 12xl, ETTI 150 esc, starting at 4S.

DISAR asked if there were any X642,X645, M645 or Prather 225s; I'm going to go back and check. Unfortunatley I've been out of town this week and will be out next week. I'm hoping to get to the shop on Sat. The shop has some very nice wood boat kits, I saw one nice hydro, several monos (40-60"), cracker box and lots of hardware.


HMH

[Seadweller]

ANother Question - CG location

I'm working on the morot placement for my Mini-X. Due to the interior size of the hull things may be a bit tight. My plan was to have the motor near the CG but I'm not sure there will be room forthe batteries unless I place them high in the hull. I am planning on moving the motor back a bit and adjust the CG with the bats. I figured the shorter driveline would be better than a longer one - moving the motor forward. Suggestions?