Relative Newbie determining hull fix next steps after underwater impact - TFL Pursuit

[ohunt]

Hi Everyone,

I live downtown Toronto (Ontario, Canada) and hence don?t get my Pursuit out much (I give that context so you can better grasp the poor judgement calls that I made [emoji4])

I took it to a cottage up north this past weekend and drove it on a day with way too much chop for a boat this size. (The only mods that I?ve applied are: a larger ESC (Seaking 180 for 6s running) and Dasboata prop.) On one speed run, the boat submarined into an oncoming wave and hit the rocky bottom (it was only 3ft? deep at that point). The nose was damaged - 1/2? crack in the topside of the hull and material removed from the gel coat and fiberglass on the bottom of the top. See pics.









I?m not sure what I should be doing to fix. I?ve seen recommendations regarding using the Bondo fiberglass repair kit or simply using epoxy on the outside and reinforcing with fiberglass or carbon inlay from the inside (if that spot can be reached). Hoping that someone can steer me in the right direction.

Little sidebar - when the boat resurfaced, it was upside down and I quickly waded out to retrieve it - with my trusty Futaba 4pv in hand. Of course, I lost my balance and plunged the transmitter into the lake. It is now disassembled and drying. An old golf adage is screaming in my ears - when you?re in trouble (deep rough, behind a tree, etc.) the one thing you don?t want to do is compound your mistake?[emoji37]

Here?s hoping that a new tx is not added to my repair costs [emoji16]


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[Bande1]

I pretty much use polyester resin (fiberglass resin) with fiber strand chopped up and mixed in for everything. Its way cheaper than epoxy and cures in 10 minutes. Its also stronger.

I usually take a dremel with an end mill bit and gouge out around the crack and make a larger area. then just fill it and let it puddle. in a few minutes its ready to sand then paint.

on a nose crack like that I would just rough up the area with 80 grit and fill without the dremel work just because of the weird angles of the nose. that part of the hull wont take on water anyway.

[Notoriousone]

What Bande1 said.. I've also used clear Goop to fill small areas like that.. Its thick and easy to apply but still flows into all the little open areas. It dries clear and solid as a rock, its waterproof and easy to sand and paint. Its sticks to fiberglass very well also

[dasboata]

minor flesh wound throw it in the water , and count your blessings that's all that happened lol

[ohunt]

minor flesh wound throw it in the water , and count your blessings that's all that happened lol

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]


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[ohunt]

I pretty much use polyester resin (fiberglass resin) with fiber strand chopped up and mixed in for everything. Its way cheaper than epoxy and cures in 10 minutes. Its also stronger.

I usually take a dremel with an end mill bit and gouge out around the crack and make a larger area. then just fill it and let it puddle. in a few minutes its ready to sand then paint.

on a nose crack like that I would just rough up the area with 80 grit and fill without the dremel work just because of the weird angles of the nose. that part of the hull wont take on water anyway.

Thank you sir


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[ohunt]

What Bande1 said.. I've also used clear Goop to fill small areas like that.. Its thick and easy to apply but still flows into all the little open areas. It dries clear and solid as a rock, its waterproof and easy to sand and paint. Its sticks to fiberglass very well also

Thank you sir


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[ohunt]

One of my blunders has turned out for the positive! After taking apart my 4pv and letting it dry out for the last 36hours, it now powers up with no apparent issues. Will perform some range tests but so far so good!


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